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Old 04-24-2016, 07:01 PM   #1
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Question No 12V from battery

Strange symptoms. Not sure what do do next.

Background: camping last weekend, always on shore power.
- Put TT in storage Monday. Inadvertently left a light on inside (2 12V bulbs). Got it out the following Friday, and noticed light was on -- quite dim. Turned it off, of course.
- Connected to shore power. Thought battery was charging (power distribution fan cycled on for a bit).
- Disconnected from shore power. DC bus dead -- no lights, level monitor out, etc.
- Removed batteries (2x6V in series) and charged them using external charger. They seemed to take the charge OK.
- Reinstalled batteries. DC bus still dead.
- Examined power distribution center (WFCO WF-890). All circuit breakers good.
- Checked all fuses visually, including reverse-polarity fuses and the unlabeled 30ADC fuse in position 11. All looked good.
- Checked battery with voltmeter: each at 6V individually, total at 12V.

We leave on a long trip in two days; planning only to stop in places with shore power. I intend to disconnect the batteries (they're not doing any good) for now.

Does anyone have any ideas of what to do next? Thanks much in advance.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:46 PM   #2
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Did you check the fuse with a light or meter and not just visually?

Most setups have a circuit breaker between the batteries and the converter/power center, have you checked to see if those are tripped?
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:59 PM   #3
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As Bama Rambler stated, check the circuit breaker that is inline from the batteries. Seeing as the batteries were so discharged the breaker more than likely tripped because of the high current the converter was trying to put into the batteries.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:03 PM   #4
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Pull the two large fuses and check them with a meter. When you try to charge a deeply discharged battery with the convertor, the current can rise ( will activate converter fan) to a level that will blow the uses or trip the 12V breaker. Also do not disconnect the batteries. If you tow with the batteries disconnected, you will not have power to activate the brakes should the TT disconnect.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:46 PM   #5
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Thanks much for the quick help!
- my voltmeter/continuity tester failed; getting a new one tomorrow
-I did not see a circuit breaker for between the battery and distribution center. It makes sense that there is one, but where??? (We have a Shasta Oasis.)
- I'm faierly sure the reverse polarity fuses are OK, since the AC-to-DC converter is able to power the DC bus components.
- I'll definitely hook up the battery: totally forgot about the safety brakes!

The circuit breaker--if I can find it--sounds like a good candidate.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:59 PM   #6
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Follow the positive cable from the batteries back to the converter. Usually is is underneath the unit and really close to the front.


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Old 04-24-2016, 09:05 PM   #7
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I also doubt the reverse polarity fuses are shot, because the converter is a 45 amp and the those fuses together are 60 amp.

The circuit breaker should be very close the the batteries. Follow the battery cable from the box to under the TT. The breaker should be attached to the frame very close to the batteries.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:22 PM   #8
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Thanks very much, hondaman174 & boondocking.

I didn't do a hand trace of the battery cable, but will do so tomorrow. I don't recall anything from other visits underneath the trailer. :-) There is nothing within six feet of the box in any event.

The circuit breaker is attached to the frame? What protects it from road grime?

BTW, the reverse-polarity fuses were 40A each!
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:04 AM   #9
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My circuit breaker is attached to the frame. It is an enclosed unit so it is protected from road grime. Look for something similar to this.


I think your 40 amp fuses should be OK, mine are 30's.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:28 AM   #10
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Disassembly?

Thanks for the picture. I guess it has to be disassembeled to reset? I'll be looking for mine in a few hours, over lunch break from work.

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Originally Posted by boondocking View Post
My circuit breaker is attached to the frame. It is an enclosed unit so it is protected from road grime. Look for something similar to this.


I think your 40 amp fuses should be OK, mine are 30's.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:18 AM   #11
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See that little black button on the side? That's the reset.


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Old 04-25-2016, 01:22 PM   #12
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Don't disassemble, just push the button.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:52 PM   #13
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Circuit Breaker or fuse

On our trailer, there is a 30 amp fuse in line with the main battery connection; it's in the wiring alongside the frame a few feet from the hitch itself. And it's not obvious--very easy to miss it! Ours went bad from corrosion because the seal around the fuse wasn't so great... Since it blended in, it took me forever to find the fuse!
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:36 PM   #14
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Still can't find battery C/B or fuse

Finally able to crawl under the trailer (Shasta Oasis) today, although it was after dark. Could not find a circuit breaker. Didn't see anything looking like a fuse, but wasn't looking, since I didn't see Ray & Ann's post until later.

I was able to trace the wiring from the battery box to where it went into s protective sheathing of sorts, then back toward the axles. The wiring from the hitch joined the others inside the sheath, and there were bits branching out to the wheels (I presume these were for brakes).

I'll hunt more for the fuse tomorrow, but we'll be driving about ten hours, so not sure when I'll have time.

Ray and Ann: was your fuse on the positive line? What color was the holder.

Thanks much!
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:53 AM   #15
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Success!

Apologies if this is a duplicate: thought I'd posted it earlier, but nothing's shown up.

After posting the above, I went out with the flashlight to look again. I was looking at the wiring from a different angle, and noticed that the positive branched off and went through a hole in the frame and came back. Traced that branch, and found what appeared to be a circuit breaker. Very poor design: the reset button was underneath the two wires going in, and the weather-proof rubber cap was, well, it wasn't: all twisted up and easily leaking by.

Pressed what I thought was the reset button, and, voilŠ, heard a click: the lights were again able to be energized from the battery.

I'll probably want to replace the thing (it said "50ADC") with something a bit more weatherproof.

I very much appreciate all the help. Y'all are great!
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:20 AM   #16
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They put those things in the worse place to find. Glad you found it and all you had to do was reset it to get things going again.

Also very glad that you came back and told us that you found and fixed it.
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:39 AM   #17
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Agreed---THANK YOU for informing everyone on the resolution. Too many folks are able to solve their problems because of the info provided by Forum members and don't have the courtesy to come back and close the discussion!.
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:42 AM   #18
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Where the fuse was

Quote:
Originally Posted by KellyG View Post
Finally able to crawl under the trailer (Shasta Oasis) today, although it was after dark. Could not find a circuit breaker. Didn't see anything looking like a fuse, but wasn't looking, since I didn't see Ray & Ann's post until later.

I was able to trace the wiring from the battery box to where it went into s protective sheathing of sorts, then back toward the axles. The wiring from the hitch joined the others inside the sheath, and there were bits branching out to the wheels (I presume these were for brakes).

I'll hunt more for the fuse tomorrow, but we'll be driving about ten hours, so not sure when I'll have time.

Ray and Ann: was your fuse on the positive line? What color was the holder.

Thanks much!
Answering the question--yes, the fuse was on the positive line; but its holder, the wiring and the A frame for the hitch are all black. The fuse holder blended in and it was quite a while before we spotted it.
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:16 PM   #19
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Good to hear you got the problem solved.
Happy Camp'n !
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:04 PM   #20
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While you are at it. Check your battery acid level. My dealer charged my batteries after they had my rig for a month doing some repairs. (Sat most of the the time waiting for parts). The charge lasted less than a day. The acid level was so low I could see the top of the plates. I let them know. Just something to remember to check occasionally.
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