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Old 11-04-2015, 03:06 PM   #21
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I would FIRE Bubba, the Electrical Wizard !!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:07 PM   #22
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5) was the shore power pedestal wired for 220? The electrician wired it 220 by mistake, I put meter on it today and it showed 240 volts from rectp
As we feared, but kinda suspected.

You need to make sure the RV is unplugged from that receptacle pronto.

OK, the converter is pretty well gone. I have not seen one that didn't fail or soon thereafter when hooked up to 240 volts. Might as well start planning a replacement there.

No television, so no worries.

The microwave sometime can have a fuse that might save it. Some have been lucky, some have not.

I am concerned about the air conditioner. It's usually OK if it isn't turned on when connected to 240 volts, but you said you did....so that one is still up in the air. It could be OK, or fail later.

The fridge control board can also be messed up.

This stuff happens, even though I know you may be sick about it right now. Main thing is to get your power outlet wired correct immediately. here is a pdf link we keep here to show the "professionals" how it should be done:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...let-27223.html

We will help get you past this.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:07 PM   #23
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Bubba wired the electrical ?
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:20 PM   #24
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Bummer! I hate that you found out the hard way. It's surprising how many times that happens.
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:21 PM   #25
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Bummer! I hate that you found out the hard way. It's surprising how many times that happens.
All to many
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:05 PM   #26
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Found converter. All breakers appear to be ok. Model WF-8955PC is model number for replacement. Any suggests on where to purchase? Manufacturer manual? Any circuit beakers on it somewhere.

I haven't even camped in the trailer is the sad deal here......[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:16 PM   #27
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Found converter. All breakers appear to be ok. Model WF-8955PC is model number for replacement. Any suggests on where to purchase? Manufacturer manual? Any circuit beakers on it somewhere.

I haven't even camped in the trailer is the sad deal here......[IMG][/IMG]
The converter is most likely fried internally. That's what happens to them. You can purchase converters from Amazon, Camping World, your local RV dealer. etc. I think in the links I provided you earlier, there is some posts that tell you how to test the converter. If not, I'll post some more stuff later on that.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:17 PM   #28
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Try best converter for the best price.

Www.bestconverter.com
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:41 PM   #29
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Sorry for your loss. You will be replacing several items. The FIRST thing on your replacement list should be a Progressive Industries Surge Protector. A VERY cheap investment considering what you'll be paying to replace your fried equipment. It will also protect you in the future when you're connecting in a campground from low voltage, incorrectly wired pedestals and/or lightning strikes.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:48 PM   #30
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Your FIRST investment should be to find a new electrician!
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:28 PM   #31
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WFCO claims overvoltage protection on the 8955, but they may be talking something around 135 volts, not 250.

http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conten...015/05/7-1.pdf

Don't condemn the converter until you power it properly. Something on the main board may have fried, but the boards are replaceable. A local RV shop may have experience to test it for a reasonable fee.

WF-8955 | wfcoelectronics.com

If you do buy a new converter, you may want to upgrade to a 65 or 75 amp unit so that you can add more battery capacity at some time if you find your current set-up to be inadequate.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:31 PM   #32
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All to many
Yep!
I wish you had come here or any other RV forum, before having your electrician do the work.
You could have saved yourself a lot of grief.
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:24 AM   #33
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If you do buy a new converter, you may want to upgrade to a 65 or 75 amp unit so that you can add more battery capacity at some time if you find your current set-up to be inadequate.
Speaking of batteries, your RV battery is most likely depleted right now, as I explained in a previous post about your converter being fried and not able to recharge the battery.

As you are either awaiting repairs or a converter to be shipped, it is a good idea to recharge that battery. The longer you allow it to set in a discharged state (as it currently is now), the worse it is for the battery. You don't want to also ruin it and add more things to be replaced.

You can attach a battery charger to it (if you have one)... or remove the battery and take it to a battery store to have them recharge it for you. Many auto parts store that sell batteries will do this for you too.

One more caveat, to help out. If you do remove the battery, pay attention to which color cable goes where. Many RV's are wired with a black and white battery cable, in which the black wire goes to the positive and the white wire goes to the negative. It's more akin to the way a house is wired (wire color wise) than a automobile. It's too easy nowadays to just snap a pic of the setup with your cellphone, before removal, to aid in the reinstallation if you forget.

As you are a newer RV owner, may I also suggest when you get free time to peruse these links. It may help in your future experiences, and help in your understanding of your RV's electrical systems as well as the function of the converter. As I stated earlier, you are part of our group now, and we are going to help get you past all this, where you can really enjoy the camping experience. You have a great support group of friends here.

http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...lectricity.asp

http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...d-amp-draw.asp
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:10 AM   #34
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:17 AM   #35
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Sorry for your loss. You will be replacing several items. The FIRST thing on your replacement list should be a Progressive Industries Surge Protector. A VERY cheap investment considering what you'll be paying to replace your fried equipment. It will also protect you in the future when you're connecting in a campground from low voltage, incorrectly wired pedestals and/or lightning strikes.
This is very unfortunate but as stated, not all that uncommon. I strongly suggest you invest in a surge protector before fixing anything on yhe trailer. It most likely is too late to help you this time but you never know what you will run into in the future.

I would guess anything with an electronic control board cooked. I would not jump in and start replacing anything with out testing the item first. I would not count on it but you never know, you may be one of the lucky ones.

Jim
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:10 AM   #36
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Great info and links guys. Thanks! 👏


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Old 11-10-2015, 11:12 AM   #37
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I ordered a new convertor board. Also Forest River sent me a list of all the appliances on my trailer so I can research replacement of repair manuals. Some have fuses that I can replace and get lucky. Waiting on new convertor board. Cost about $165.00. My electrician has owned up to the incorrect wiring and will help me with replacement cost. Life continues to be a learning experience!
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:16 AM   #38
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Can I charge the battery without taking the cables off?
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:29 AM   #39
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Can I charge the battery without taking the cables off?
Yes. Just make sure you put the chargers cables on the correct terminal + and -

As I pointed out earlier, many trailers have a black cable on the + terminal and a white cable on the - terminal of the battery. Your battery charger probably has a red cable for the + and a black cable for the - . You don't want to mix these up and put the black - cable from the battery charger onto the black + cable of the RV.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:11 PM   #40
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Yes. Just make sure you put the chargers cables on the correct terminal + and -

As I pointed out earlier, many trailers have a black cable on the + terminal and a white cable on the - terminal of the battery. Your battery charger probably has a red cable for the + and a black cable for the - . You don't want to mix these up and put the black - cable from the battery charger onto the black + cable of the RV.
NO, do not make that mistake! Double check things before making the finial connection. I think it is a stupid way of wiring but it is what it is. Here is a link to a cheap battery charger if you need one.

10/2/50 Amp 12V Manual Charger With Engine Start

I carry this with me just in case I need it. I also carry a cheap 750 watt inverter in my truck so I can power the charger using it if needed. I feel safer doing it this way than using jumper cables.

12V Power Inverter - 1500 Watts Max

HF would not be my first choice for tools if I was earning my living using them but for emergency use in the trailer they are fine.

Jim
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