Your converter may be fixable if that is narrowed down to be your problem.
The camper that I had before the one I have now, the converter stopped working. Tested everything that I could have with out taken it apart. Could find no problem. Took the cover off to get to the innards. Found one of the wires where the solder had came apart. Re-soldered the wires together and has worked fine ever since. Do a little more digging with all of the 110v power off (on to test, but be carefu)l and you may find a clue on what is going on. You need a volt meter (as should be on the list in the tool bag of everyone).
I believe I've narrowed it to the converter. eBay and Amazon both have my converter from $89 to $125. I've connected the charger and all looks good. The converter will get replaced when I get home.
Well after pondering over this ordeal and trying to avoid having to spend a lot of money I decided to troubleshoot everything. Went from fuses to breakers then batteries. It turns out that one of the two batteries I replaced last month was bad. I never thought of a new battery being bad. It was at 9.2 and the meter kept saying shut off the vehicle. The battery was completely unhooked at the time. New battery replaced and now all appears fine. Thanks for the assistance.
Well after pondering over this ordeal and trying to avoid having to spend a lot of money I decided to troubleshoot everything. Went from fuses to breakers then batteries. It turns out that one of the two batteries I replaced last month was bad. I never thought of a new battery being bad. It was at 9.2 and the meter kept saying shut off the vehicle. The battery was completely unhooked at the time. New battery replaced and now all appears fine. Thanks for the assistance.
A hydro meter would have shown if it had a dead cell or two. Probley a couple of cells shorted out and would not take or keep a charge. IF it is a new battery, take it back where you got it as it should be full exchangeable or at least pro-rated. But, my thought is that even with a bad battery the converter should have ran your 12v systems unless it was 'charging' at max output all of the time and popped some type of breaker. With that thought of 'charging at max' all of the time, if the converter does not kick down to a trickle charge when the battery is fully charge, it will after a time fry your battery, boil out the water and/or short out some cells.
My batteries are sealed so a hydrometer test is out.
OC.... you always have to be the difficult one, don't you .....
take your drill and cut a hole in the top of each cell and then 'test'....
after you find out that there was nothing wrong with your battery, then wrap it with Duck Commander Tape to close up the holes......
(disclaimer: do not cut into your battery if it is sealed)((don't cut into your battery ever))
OC.... you always have to be the difficult one, don't you...
Nope, just pointing out that some folks use sealed batteries. Just bought another one for TOWTA's junker today that is sealed. I do have a hydrometer, but it's uses are extremely limited nowadays.
I'm not to familiar with how it all works but have no issues working on it and can pretty much troubleshoot anything with a direction. You guys are very good at explaining things. I just don't carry a meter with me but have tools to work anything.
You may be interested in this kit -- I got it last year when I needed to replace a couple of GFI outlets in the house (and was NOT prepared to pay a electrician $200+ Parts to do it for me )
Apparently the problem is not fixed. Let Myrtle Beach at when I got home no power in 5th wheel. I noticed it when I attempted to put down my front jacks when hooked up to my truck. Only had enough power to get them down so I could pull out from under. Am I correct in saying I should have power when connected to 30 or 50 amp w/o using my batteries?
Apparently the problem is not fixed. Let Myrtle Beach at when I got home no power in 5th wheel. I noticed it when I attempted to put down my front jacks when hooked up to my truck. Only had enough power to get them down so I could pull out from under. Am I correct in saying I should have power when connected to 30 or 50 amp w/o using my batteries?
Try disconnecting the ground wire from the battery terminal and see if the converter powers up. Then check your resettable current limiters if "some" DC items work; but not your slides or landing gear.
If nothing DC works without the battery connected and it plugged in (AC items DO work), your converter could be bad, one of both ORANGE fuse(s) blown, or not powered by AC (check breakers and connection at breaker).
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Since I had this issue at the campground I checked the fuses and breakers again here at home and all were fine. I had to connect a jump box up to the battery in order to get the slides out. I'll be checking the limiters and converter.
I disconnected the ground wires from the batteries and the converter did not start. I pulled the 2 fuses on the converter and when I placed them back in it started for a split second then stopped. If I tested the converter properly with my meter it only showed 6.82.
I disconnected the ground wires from the batteries and the converter did not start. I pulled the 2 fuses on the converter and when I placed them back in it started for a split second then stopped. If I tested the converter properly with my meter it only showed 6.82.
The full wave bridge in your converter has blown a diode. This can be repaired, but if it is beyond your expertise (as it is mine) a new converter (only) is not expensive.
With 1/2 wave rectification, you only get 1/2 the voltage.
With that thought of 'charging at max' all of the time, if the converter does not kick down to a trickle charge when the battery is fully charge, it will after a time fry your battery, boil out the water and/or short out some cells.
Linear Mode
