Currently at Ocean Lakes in Mrytle Beach and just had our CO detector go off and have no lights or fridge working. Checked fuses, battery and checked plugs with a voltage meter and shows good. Not sure what to do. Help?
Something happened on the 12V side sounds like. What's your battery voltage? There's circuit breakers separate from the fuse panel, make sure one of those isn't tripped or there's a connection issue there.
Your lights run off 12 volts. The plugs just tell you that you have power to your rv. It almost sounds like you turned off your battery disconnect by mistake? Do you have one of those on your unit. The lights should work from the battery even if your converter is not on. You have a DC problem...
Check your battery connections. Typically tongue jack connects directly to battery via its on I line fuse.
Also look for circuit breaker on frame around battery. Some are resettable
Just checked the battery disconnect and appeared fine. Wiggled it a little and came inside to find E-0 code flashing on fridge. Lights not so sure yet.
Do you have power to your slide? It sounds to me like your converter gave up the ghost on the DC side. That would cause it to stop charging your battery (probably) and your 12V (lights, CO detector, fridge controls) would be running straight off your battery. With nothing charging it, it wouldn't last long. Once it died, the CO detector would generally start to beep a low voltage warning and lights and fridge would stop working.
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2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ - HD tow package
2017 Rockwood 2703WS Emerald Edition
What you COULD do, is swap the battery with the truck and see if the lights come back. You don't happen to have a multi meter on you? I'm curious as to the battery voltage at the terminals.
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2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ - HD tow package
2017 Rockwood 2703WS Emerald Edition
When you say you checked your fuses... does that include the 40amp fuses in your converter? Not sure how many you have in your camper, but I have two in my Flagstaff TT. How do I know that? Don't ask....
Larry
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"Sunny" the 2017 Sunseeker 3010DS
2006 Jeep Liberty Toad
.... and lovin' life........MOST of the time.
Your converter is not charging your battery.
You require 12 VDC to run the fridge even if 120 volt AC is available.
So:
1) Check and reset all the AC circuit breakers - one of them powers the converter/charger. Turn them OFF; then back on. A tripped AC breaker may look "good" Mine is labeled CONV in the photo
2) check the two orange 40 amp reverse current protection fuses in the DC distribution panel
3) check the two current limiters between the converter and the battery. They look like the photo and one is located VERY close to the battery box and the other is located at the steel pancake box that the tow vehicle umbilical cable goes into. See photos
The reset buttons are on the side.
Make SURE the current limiters do not look like the bad ones in the photo.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
As you can see in the photo in my previous post, the most heavily used AC circuit in the camper is the living room/kitchen GFCI. It is also the circuit breaker they chose to wire the converter to.
If you overload that 15 amp circuit breaker (and using a lot of AC stuff while charging a low battery will do it) the CB will open killing the converter.
Oh, the current limiter near the battery looks like the red rubber covered terminal thing on the plywood wall right after the disconnect switch in this photo.
On your 5th wheel, look under the pin box for the second fuse.
Mine got corroded from road salt and I needed to sand the terminals to get a good connection again.
Corrosion of these current limiters causes nearly all the power out issues in our campers.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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