No power to ceiling vents.

[Backdoc1]

Any ideas trouble shooting my 2006 29f 5th wheel, no power to bathroom vent, stove vent, ceiling fan and air conditioner will not run. Shore power works, fuses look good. Lights work, plugs work, just seems ceiling 12 volt not working. Ideas? Thx.

[Flagstaffer06]

Do the items you mentioned above run on shore power? AC for sure isn't 12 volt so that will only run on shore power. I guess clarify a little more are those not working on battery but are on shore power? If so, they most likely can't be run on 12 volt. I know AC for sure but unclear on others off of the top of my head.

[huntr70]

Double check the blade fuses.

Usually, they link the A/C control board (needs 12 volt to work) with several other 12 volt items.

[Backdoc1]

Powered vents are all 12 volt. No joy with 110 on or off. Batteries Ok. Blade fuses ok. Seems same circuit with dometic thermostat as it will not run the furnace or AC either. Is there a hidden fuse somewhere that might be interrupting the DC power flow after the fuse box?

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Backdoc1

Powered vents are all 12 volt. No joy with 110 on or off. Batteries Ok. Blade fuses ok. Seems same circuit with dometic thermostat as it will not run the furnace or AC either. Is there a hidden fuse somewhere that might be interrupting the DC power flow after the fuse box?

Have you checked the circuit breakers near your battery?

[TURBS]

They may even be resetable like this one.

[prairiecamper]

Normally I would say check for grounds, but in this case it seems to may items not working. Are the fans controlled by a switch on the fans or a remote switch on the wall? In our trailer the dometic control for furnace and air conditioning is an integrated circuit board that allows the fan in the AC along with furnace fan at same time. In this case it appears power is not getting to the fans.

[Backdoc1]

Vent fans are all independent switched. Ceiling fan is a wall switch. AC/furnace run thru the dometic thermostat. Battery fuses ok, as is the converter which supplies DC power regardless of batteries, when plugged in. Still think there is fuse somewhere after the fuse panel that is interupting my power. Checked the fuse on the shower fan and it is ok. Have not found a fuse on the AC (yet?). No fuse on the stove fan/light. Hhmmph!

[DAISY BOYKIN]

Check the circuit breakers near the battery box, follow the red battery cable to the circuit breaker, push the small button on the breaker to reset it. All items you mentioned is 12 VDC.

[Herk7769]

OK, lets start at the beginning.

When you say the lights work are they 110 volt AC lights and no 12 volt lights work?

If yes, then:

Is your 12 volt battery installed, known good, and is it charged?

A shorted out, completely dead (less than 6 volts on a 12 volt battery), or frozen battery will act like a direct short to your converter and prevent shore power from being converted to 12 volt DC. REMOVE the battery completely and unplug the camper. Wait a few minutes and plug the camper back in. All 12 volt devices should work. Replace battery.

Let me know if this fixes your problem.

If No, and they are 12 volts we need to re-attack as this would be a head scratcher.

[Backdoc1]

All lights are 12 volt and work fine.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Backdoc1

All lights are 12 volt and work fine.

Doc, I got to tell you this is a head scratcher.

Since all the 12 volt lights work, but the other 12 volt items do not, you are going to have to go the extra mile. It is possible there are blown fuses that "look good" but are not.

It is also possible that a wire junction behind the power center has come apart.

[Backdoc1]

I was hoping someone would say "check the hidden fuse in location???" as opposed to a poor wire connection, yuck! looks like more multimeter testing is in order. Thxs.

[TURBS]

Ummm correct me if I'm wrong but isn't there a fuse right on the fan?
I didn't see where anyone posted about it.

[Backdoc1]

Fan fuse checks out a-ok with the multimeter and the mark one eye ball test.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Backdoc1

Fan fuse checks out a-ok with the multimeter and the mark one eye ball test.

I just checked on my wfco converter on my sabre and when I pulled the fuse the only light that went out was the shower overhead light .
The fan and light outside of the shower stayed lit. Hmmmmm
So I pulked the bedroom fuse and the fan and main light went out. Ah ha.

I don't know if this will help but just thought I'd pass the info on.

Given this info maybe just maybe yours might be similar and there a loose connection in your bedroom light?


Turbs

[Backdoc1]

Thanks for the tip. I figure that the straight forward logic of fuse a to circuit a and fuse b to circuit b gets a little muddled in the rv world. Will check that and take a hard look at the batteries again as we'll and let you folks know. Thxs for the input, keep it coming if anything else comes to mind.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Backdoc1

Thanks for the tip. I figure that the straight forward logic of fuse a to circuit a and fuse b to circuit b gets a little muddled in the rv world. Will check that and take a hard look at the batteries again as we'll and let you folks know. Thxs for the input, keep it coming if anything else comes to mind.

Btw the first fuse I pull was for bathroom.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Backdoc1

Thanks for the tip. I figure that the straight forward logic of fuse a to circuit a and fuse b to circuit b gets a little muddled in the rv world. Will check that and take a hard look at the batteries again as we'll and let you folks know. Thxs for the input, keep it coming if anything else comes to mind.

Backdoc, I think the fans are "daisy chained" ie parallel wired so that one set of leads is attached over and over. The trick is to figure the way the electrician wired them. Usually the first device is then connected to the next etc. The first device should be closest to the power center. If the device has a bad supply connection the remaining fixtures cannot receive power either. It can be the bath fan first, followed by the main vent, range vent etc. You need to pull down the first device for the power panel. Check for 12 volt power on the circuit you suspect then the unit you pull down. Continue till one fixture has power on its line but is not passed on. Normally with this equipment circuits are made with plastic wire nuts and easy to troubleshoot. They don't install fuses at random, junctions are very common however. Its much easier to have a "bad" connection with 12 VDC because of the lower energy level as compared AC circuits. Happy hunting!

[Backdoc1]

Sounds about right. Will try the parallel check pattern this weekend. Thxs