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Old 05-25-2016, 02:37 PM   #21
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Many times it is a bad ground or missing ground to the trailer. Just put some jumper cables from the TV to the trailer frame to test.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:39 PM   #22
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Should I have 12V going back to the plug when connected to shore power?
Yes. The common way to turn on your running lights in a campsite (this is also the way dealers do it at RV shows) is to bridge pins 3 and 4 on the 7-way plug with a 5 or 10 amp fuse.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:51 PM   #23
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Go to you battery and follow the red wire off to where you will find a resettable breaker. It is a little bow with two connectors on the top. On the side of it is a micro button. Push the button in and the breaker will reset. Just follow the red wire off the battery. I had the same problem last year and it too half the night to remember about the breaker.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:12 PM   #24
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Go to you battery and follow the red wire off to where you will find a resettable breaker. It is a little bow with two connectors on the top. On the side of it is a micro button. Push the button in and the breaker will reset. Just follow the red wire off the battery. I had the same problem last year and it too half the night to remember about the breaker.
He has ~12v from the converter to the battery cables, so it wouldn't be a re-settable breaker problem.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:25 PM   #25
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There should be resettable breaker or fuse that is inline that feeds the power to the fuse box from the battery.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:41 PM   #26
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Sorry, thought you were talking about the trailer battery.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:50 PM   #27
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Why woulkd you try to run everything without a battery, charging it is another issue. The truck ignition key must be in the run position you know, at least on a GM
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:31 PM   #28
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Why woulkd you try to run everything without a battery, charging it is another issue. The truck ignition key must be in the run position you know, at least on a GM
That's what I always thought until I got SCHOOLED! See the post where I had to correct myself.
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REVERSAL / RETRACTION!!

One of the worst problems on public forums is the definitive statement of opinions as if they were facts. Secondly, we are often merely wrong when we post things as facts. I do that myself although I'd rather think I didn't. I did that very thing on this thread.

My son is certified as a World Class GM Master Technician. When I told him my opinion on this subject (meaning that the truck's charging circuit is dead when the key is OFF), he said, "I think that's wrong." He went home and researched the topic from a GM perspective - meaning he couldn't speak for the other two of the Big Three or the other entries in the RV towing business. Here's what he wrote me.
"Positive cable off battery powers the HOT AT ALL TIMES input to the under-hood fuse block. The input to the 30A fuse is tied to this buss bar inside the UBEC. The output from the fuse goes straight to the 7-wire plug at the bumper with no relays, modules, switches or any other means for it to be remotely or automatically disconnected from the battery."

When members ask questions on this forum regarding a TV's (in)ability to tow a particular trailer, someone or more people will recommend that the OP weigh his particular rig to get real measurements/real numbers. I decided that might work for my 2014 GMC (please note I am not projecting this information on another manufacturer's units nor on older or differently configured GM units). I have a gas engine and a single battery on the truck.

Here are the voltage readings I found this morning from my 7-wire electrical socket measuring from tab marked - to tab marked + :
12.46 – key off,
12.19 – key set to ACC mode,
12.14 – key on; NOT running,
14.81 – key on and running; T/H OFF.

With my key OFF, I have 12.46 volts ON at the trailer plug/socket.

Even after all this, my operating procedure will not change since I always have the trailer plugged into 110v AC when it's parked up by the garage before a trip. Therefore, I don't worry that the trailer cord is plugged into the truck because I ASSume the 110v - converter link will keep my trailer battery up so my truck battery couldn't be "drawn down" anyway. I doubt if I'll have any problems leaving the trailer connected to the truck for 90 minutes while I eat a steak while I'm out on the road.

Thanks to my son, I'm now more educated about how my own truck works. Your mileage may vary. The assumptions I gleaned from poorly conducted experiments and experiences were WRONG. I'm sorry. Consider metering your own voltage!
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:55 PM   #29
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:21 PM   #30
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That's what I always thought until I got SCHOOLED! See the post where I had to correct myself.
That's interesting, does that also mean that your converter is charging your chassis battery if the TV is connected and you are plugged into shore power? I would think so!
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:36 PM   #31
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I plainly remember the 2013 GMC 2500 HD manual said the ignition said it cut off current flow when key was off, so as not to discharge battery. I no longer have it now. But I have been wrong before so I'll keep my comments to myself
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:42 PM   #32
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That's interesting, does that also mean that your converter is charging your chassis battery if the TV is connected and you are plugged into shore power? I would think so!
I'm guessing they would be fighting each other, and I'm not sure who would win, which is why I would NOT recommend it. I suspect MOST of us disconnect the TV before plugging in the shore power when setting up, and vice versa when tearing down.

I installed a relay on the TV aux power wire to my 7-pin conector, with a switch on the dash so I can turn it off if I want to. My concern is stopping somewhere with the trailer (park, museum, whatever), being gone for several hours, and coming back to find out something in the trailer drained my TV battery dry. (All you need is some kid to pull the emergency brake pin and you're screwed.)
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Old 05-28-2016, 12:17 AM   #33
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You will find your junction box just above the plastic belly panel where the cord goes through it. If you cannot easily pull down the panel. you can cut it with a razor knife and make a flap to open for access. Black Gorilla Tape works excellent to seal it back up. Do NOT use duct tape it wont hold. Breaker should be in the box.
Thank you, I will have my trailer back next week. I will check under the belly panel then. Hope it is there.

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Old 06-12-2016, 10:42 PM   #34
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Hey everyone, just a quick update. Turns out it was bad connection at the trailer plug. Think all of the wiring is working now.

Thanks for all the replies helping me out.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:43 PM   #35
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Thanks for coming back and letting us know what it was. It's good to hear the outcome of what was wrong and what fixed it.
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