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Old 04-11-2019, 12:53 PM   #1
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No power when plugged in

We recently purchased a 2017 Forest River Hyper-lyte. Trailer worked perfect first time we used it. Came home and now we have no power when plugging it in. Is there a circuit breaker on the trailer somewhere? Or fuse panel? Our previous RV did. I have had no luck finding it. Yes Iíve tried multiple plugs. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-11-2019, 02:00 PM   #2
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What model is your Salem Hemisphere.
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Old 04-11-2019, 02:09 PM   #3
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Did the dealer not give you a PDI/walkthrough? They should have shown you the 110v breaker/12v fuse panel.
Usually it's a plastic brown rectangular door that you push and the door pops open, revealing the breakers and fuses.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/WFCO-WF-8...xoCC44QAvD_BwE
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:16 PM   #4
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We bought it from an individual.
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:22 PM   #5
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If you are plugged in at home and the home outlet is protected by a GFCI it is possible it tripped. Try to find a home outlet that is not GFCI and try again.
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:24 PM   #6
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like he said. brown rectangle access panel usually near floor near or in a cabinet or side of cabinet.
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
If you are plugged in at home and the home outlet is protected by a GFCI it is possible it tripped. Try to find a home outlet that is not GFCI and try again.
Not on a GFCI plug and Iíve tried different plugs.
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirJr76 View Post
We recently purchased a 2017 Forest River Hyper-lyte. Trailer worked perfect first time we used it. Came home and now we have no power when plugging it in. Is there a circuit breaker on the trailer somewhere? Or fuse panel? Our previous RV did. I have had no luck finding it. Yes Iíve tried multiple plugs. Any help would be appreciated.
Saying ďno powerĒ is pretty general. Do you have no 12vDC power, no 110vAC power, neither?
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:26 PM   #9
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Not on a GFCI plug and Iíve tried different plugs.
Besides not being on a GFCI master outlet, are you on an outlet protected by a GFCI master?
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:26 PM   #10
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Look for a panel as in post #3 below the fridge. Reset main 30 amp breaker by moving completely to off position and then to on.
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Old 04-11-2019, 04:30 PM   #11
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That’s where it is. I’ll reset it when I get home. Thanks.
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Old 04-11-2019, 05:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Look for a panel as in post #3 below the fridge. Reset main 30 amp breaker by moving completely to off position and then to on.
I was beginning to think that the OP skipped my post with the link to the pics of the panel box.
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Old 04-11-2019, 05:51 PM   #13
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Youíre right Dan.

I donít think he saw your earlier post including the picture, or at least he didnít acknowledge it.
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Old 04-12-2019, 12:21 PM   #14
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Just experienced a similar no/low 120 volt AC situation when on 50 amp shore power. Turned out to be my surge protector. Replaced surge protector and life was good again.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:17 PM   #15
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120 volt circuitry is controlled by breakers.

As others suggested, verify power at your "shore power" supply source. Use a multimeter or circuit tester. Use a process of elimination to rule out problems beginning at your house and working toward the RV. Always begin at the source and work your way out to the farthest point in any electrical circuit.

If you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp connection, great. Most of us get by with a 15 or 20 amp conventional duplex outlet feeding an adapter on the end of the RV power cord. Whatever it is, it must be live.

Disconnect the RV power cord from the RV and check for power at the female end of the RV cable. If it's good, reconnect.

LOOK FOR and check/replace FUSES/BREAKER on the Converter. It's likely that there is a main breaker or set of fuses protecting the input side of the Converter.

Now, in earnest, turn off every single breaker in the RV's breaker panel and then reset. Tripped breakers often don't appear to be tripped. Be methodical and turn every one off and then back on.

Still no luck? Then dig out the multimeter again and verify 120 volts INTO the converter and out of the converter. There will be screw lugs on the gozinta and gozouta sides of the converter. Check them all. In theory, there should two "hot" legs and one common or ground leg on a 30 amp circuit.

Do the same at the back of the breaker panel.

No luck? Disconnect from shore power and grab a screwdriver and tighten EVERY screw on every lug. A loose screw will wreak havoc on the circuit.

If all of this fails, perhaps there are problems with the Converter. They are not expensive.


And now an unrelated part. 12 volt spade fuses are notoriously difficult to examine. In the field, the easiest way to check is to pull the fuse and shine a flashlight through it from behind. Then you can see clearly if the fuse is blown or not. Still in doubt, check continuity (resistance) with your multimeter.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Saying “no power” is pretty general. Do you have no 12vDC power, no 110vAC power, neither?
SirJr76, when you come back, please define what you mean by "no power". Thx.
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