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Old 02-25-2024, 08:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
That's 55 amps 12 volt DC...which is not the same as 30 amps 120 volt AC. I hope the OP didn't confuse this.
You are correct, but may be where the op was getting the 50amp number from.
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Old 02-25-2024, 09:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
No Wolf Pup is 50amp. It's 30amp.
Many electricians are unaware of how RVs are wired. The owners end up frying their electronics because they didn't make sure how the electrician wired it.
Many electricians apparently can’t read either, as the TT-30R typically has “125 V” molded right into the outlet face.

OP, is the the outlet style you are plugged into?
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Old 02-26-2024, 12:47 PM   #23
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I'll have bow out of this one. Info concerning this problem provided thus far is convoluted.
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:36 PM   #24
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We had a similar issue with our Cardinal. Turned out to be a bad wire connection inside the head of our 50 amp cord. We used someone else’s cord to hook up our trailer (as process of elimination) everything worked. Had to be the cord. Put on a new head, worked fine ever since.
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:56 PM   #25
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Pictures would help. We need to clear things up is your new outlet 3 or 4 wire. Is it 120V or 220V? (30A or 50A doesn't matter yet) Need a meter.

My 2 cents since the link you keep showing is a 30A surge protector.......... guessing your trailer is 30A (3 wire)... not 50A (4 wire)

My guess is that you have fried the surge protector even though the two green lights are on. More than likely when you found the main breaker (trailer ) tripped. Is power coming from surge protector??? A meter would help. The green lights may actually not show this.

Really need to know what the electrician did to / for you............

Please read everyone's previous posts.


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Old 02-26-2024, 07:37 PM   #26
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I'm with everyone else who starts with the statement that your 2022 17JGBL Wolf Pup is most definitely NOT a 240 Volt, 50 amp rig. This is a very small, single axle travel trailer...stick and tin no less, so it is modestly outfitted.
It's absolutely a 120 volt, 30 amp rig.

You've seen some of the photos, but just in case,
Click for image of 30 amp, 120 volt socket.
Click for image of 30 amp, 120 volt plug. This will, no doubt, match the plug on the cord attached to your RV.

What the electrician did is anybody's guess. But if he set you up with a true 240 volt, 50 amp circuit and outlet, the good news is that you CAN'T plug in your 30 amp, 120 volt plug into that socket. And if you were using a surge protector that's also an adapter, the adapter would be correctly wired to take the 240 volt, 50 amp feed down to a safe, 120 volt, 30 amp socket. In other words, if the electrician set you up with a 240 volt, 50 amp outlet, there should be no way for you to make the connection improperly.

While there may be other problems...for example, your surge protector might be toast for some reason...the real fear is what many have said. Your electrician wired your 30 amp socket with 240 volts. If so, the damage to the converter in your rig may be done.

If others have said this, I'll repeat. You need a "multimeter" that can read voltage. Read the manual and learn how to setup the multimeter to read voltage in the range of 0 to 600 volts AC. AC is very important, because some multimeters have a different setting to read DC voltage.
Now start at that brand new outlet and read the voltage across the left lug and right lug. If it's 240 volts, that's OK if it's a true 50 amp, 240 volt outlet. If you have a MISWIRED 30 amp, 120 volt outlet, and you read 240 volts with the multimeter, there's your problem.

Assuming the above is good and you have a surge protector/adapter, plug into the outlet and read the voltage at the output of that adapter pigtail. If you read 240 volts, that's a problem, because your rig can only handle 120 volts. If you read only 120 volts, great. If you read no volts, your surge protector/adapter is toast. Try to reset it or get a new one.

Repeating. The real fear is that your electrician miswired your 30 amp, 120 volt socket to be 240 volts. Worse, if he is feeding it with a 50 amp breaker, the electrician should lose his license.

THERE IS ABSOLUTELY ZERO CHANCE THAT YOUR LITTLE RIG IS SETUP FOR 240 VOLTS/50 AMPS, unless the previous owner did this as a modification.

If your electrician set you up to run 240 volts to your 120 volt rig, you have several challenges ahead.
1) Getting restitution from the electrician;
2) Getting your rig's converter diagnosed to determine its fate...which may include total replacement.
3) Depending on what happened in the converter, things like your microwave, possibly the fridge, the AC unit, and other 120 volt loads might have been roasted.
You won't know the extent of the damage until you perform tests on everything.
4) Then it's time for the electrician to open his wallet.

Here's hoping everything is wired correctly and your surge protector bit the dust.

Good luck.
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Old 02-27-2024, 08:34 AM   #27
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Have you looked in the trailer’s circuit breaker box?
In it you will see the main supply breaker and it will be marked 30 amp unless major aftermarket modifications have been made.
AFAIK, ALL Wolf Pup models are 30 amp powered.
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Old 02-29-2024, 07:31 PM   #28
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I have a 2022 Wolf Pup 17jg and it is def 30 amp.
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Old 02-29-2024, 07:40 PM   #29
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It takes time

The surge protector I have takes almost a minute to cycle through before power comes on. Maybe wait for a minute after powering up and see if that works
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Old 03-01-2024, 01:35 AM   #30
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Note the difference between a 20 Amp outlet and a 15 Amp outlet.

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Old 03-01-2024, 07:00 AM   #31
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I wired my 30 amp outlet with a two pole breaker, 220 volts. I toasted the heating element for the refrigerator the 12v power supply and the microwave.
The RV microwaves are considerably more than ones you can purchase elsewhere. It is the same as the ones found in big box stores with a different cover. Swapped the cover, paid $50. Replaced the fridge heater and power converter, $300.
Lesson learned.
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Old 03-01-2024, 07:23 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
Pictures would help. We need to clear things up is your new outlet 3 or 4 wire. Is it 120V or 220V? (30A or 50A doesn't matter yet) Need a meter.

I know what you mean, but for accuracy, it’s 120V or 240V. If you have a single phase transformer supplying your house with 240V, then from it’s center tap to either leg you get 120V. There is no 220V available.
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Old 03-01-2024, 09:19 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Gadget008 View Post
Hello all I have a 2022 17JGBL Wolf Pup. I am a first time owner. I just had a electrician drop a 50amp plug in my garage. I plugged in my surge protector. Then plugged in my trailer. My Batteries are disconnected at this time. I have No power in the trailer. I went to the breaker box and noticed the main was not on. When I flip the main switch. I hear a single beep (Cannot tell from where). But I still have no power. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box next to the circuit breakers. No blown fuses. I have googled and I cannot find anything to help. Can anyone here help. I am not sure what a single beep would mean. I have Tested the 50amp plug with a volt meter. Everything looks good there.

Here is the surge protector I bought Amazon Link

Your trailer is a 30 amp, not 50 amp. There is nothing in a 19 foot trailer that would require 50 amps. I've checked Forest River and every other source on the internet. That is why it doesn't work. You are trying to connect a 110 volt system to a 220 volt system, which is what a 50 and source is.
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Old 03-01-2024, 10:19 AM   #34
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You need your battery in for things to work.that how it works in my trailer when plugged in
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Old 03-01-2024, 10:54 AM   #35
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Unfortunately, as most threads do where the OP does not come back and give definitive answers, this thread got muddied up.

WE believe the OP has a 30a shore supply but the OP never verified that. It likely is... but a photo of their shore cord plug would be great. We've only ever seen a link to the surge protector they are using and that is 30a.

WE also do not know for sure what outlet the OP is plugging into that the electrician put in. Again, a photo of the outlet and the breaker feeding it would be definitive.

And I have to wholeheartedly agree with BehindBars... IT IS NOT 110v/220v.
Come on, we can do better on this forum. It is 120v/240v.

For those saying you can't plug a 30a (3 prong) 120v R/V into a 240v R/V outlet (4 prong) simply don't understand what a 50a to 30a adapter does.

Here's a schematic that maybe will help you...
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Old 03-01-2024, 11:29 AM   #36
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Two pages of discussion and supposition!

Taking a picture of the breaker in your panel would eliminate all of the questions. The breaker has two wires on it not one. A plastic bar to connect the switch’s. Wrong breaker. You do not need to take anything apart to see.

Checking voltage at the plug answers the question.

Unfortunately this is a common electrician mistake.
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Old 03-02-2024, 12:44 PM   #37
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Guess the OP was a drive by poster. 2/25 then nothing since. Maybe he/she got it resolved. Too bad no update for those who attempted to help.
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Old 03-03-2024, 06:49 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird View Post
Unfortunately, these trailers don't come with a manual. All you receive are manuals for the components in the trailers and hopefully a spec sheet listing the components, their serial numbers and sometimes contact information for the manufacturers.

My advice would be to unplug your trailer and contact your electrician before you try to plug it in again. Your surge protector and everything else indicates that you have a 30 amp rig. You shouldn't be able to physically plug a 30 amp plug into a 50 amp socket.

As others have said, unless your electrician knew that you were using that plug for an rv and knew how to wire it correctly, he may have installed a 30amp dryer plug.
You could physically plug into a 30 amp dryer plug, but it will fry the electronics in the rig.

We understand that this is frustrating for you, but don't want you to rush into this and cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. Pictures will help, but it's not going to show how that plug is wired.
If you're in a hurry to test everything, rent a space at a local rv park to test things out.
If you still have problems at an rv site, then further diagnosis will be required.

It's very possible he wired the RV receptacle like an old style dryer plug, common ground/neutral.
The electrical code changed in 1996. All dryer plugs since then are 4 wire, separating the ground and neutral.
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