No Solar

[Crimson Tide]

My first post...I hope I'm in the right spot. I could use your help.



I have a brand new 2022 Puma 26FKDS with a factory 190 watt panel on the roof and a 30 amp Aims controller. The controller shows battery voltage, condition, temp, etc., but shows no current or voltage from the solar panel. It is correct as it does not charge the battery at all. I have pulled the controller out of the wall and confirmed there are wires connected to the controller from the panel and to the battery. A voltmeter confirms battery voltage to the controller and again, no voltage from the panel. Somewhere, I'm losing connectivity from the panel to the controller. So...



(1) Is there some sort of fuse or breaker between the panel and the controller? If so, any idea where it might be? I sure couldn't find it behind the controller anywhere and it's not in the fuse/breaker panel.


(2) If I have to start tracing wires, does anyone know where the factory ran these wires and how to access them?


(3) If anyone else has an idea of what the issue is, I would greatly appreciate hearing it.


Thank you all in advance. This one has me stumped.

[jlankford]

There are inline fuse holders that look like an MC4 connector. Perhaps you have one of these at your roof connection?

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-20a-mc...holder-w-fuse/

[tomkatb]

Throw a blanket over the panel and check the plug out on the roof with a voltmeter.

Most solar panels are made in China. Quality control is pretty minimal.

Use the voltmeter on the controller first. Might save a trip up the ladder. Do not rely on meters on devices.

[Kholder]

I found this gadget on Amazon to make it easy to analyze panels. Acts like a solar controller to see everything at once on the solar side. No battery information. Works good on my ground mount panels too.

https://a.co/d/2pN8sjw

[Aussieguy]

you'll have to get up on the roof and measure the voltage at the panel connections using a multimeter

If NO voltage look at the panel for brown spots or what looks like snail trails
, both are signs of a damaged panel.


also look for any inline fuse as mentioned on post #2

If you measure voltage at the panel
then go to the controller and you should get close to the same voltage on the controller solar input.
if NO voltage measured by multimeter at the controller......... wiring is suspect, bad corroded connections are a common problem.

clean the connectors and test any inline fuse
Until you can measure voltage at the ends of the wires going into the controller from the panels there is no reason to look elsewhere



with ONE panel you are susceptible to under voltage... from sun angle and shading
look at maximizing the number of panels based on the controller's max solar input power (watts, probably around 400-450w)
refer to your controller's user manual for number of panels/watts


If you want MOST amount of solar power look at changing to a MPPT
laying panels flat on a roof ... is common for RV but loses some power capability for most of the day..

MPPT works more efficiently so you get back some of the losses
you are not loosing power from flat mount and from PWM

If you determine your panel is no good ... make a plan of your roof layout and determine best panel layout.... On my 24 foot roof , with all the usual obstructions I can put 2 sets of panels up for total of 1500w ...

I put the FIRST set of panels for one controller (740w) and this has satisfied my 12v charging needs for now... can expand it if I start using more power

NOT worth doing 1 or 2 small panels at a time... do the max for a controller

[Crimson Tide]

Folks....thank you thank you thank you!! The rv is on top the mountain right now as we try and spend a month this time of year just hiding out and enjoying mother nature. I'm going to head up there tomorrow and check out your ideas.


Again...thank you very much!

[Aussieguy]

don't forget to take a multimeter

[Crimson Tide]

That's part of my standard equipment in my mobile toolbox. I couldn't get along without it. Thanks for the reminder though!


I also won't forget a good ladder! LOL

[Crimson Tide]

Well, back from camp and all in not well with the solar panel situation. I wish I had taken pictures, but I don't have cell service there so I didn't even have my phone.



Ok...jlankford may be correct with the MC4 connector and fuse. There are connectors under the center of the panel and I'll bet the farm one is a fuse. Unfortunately, you can't reach them. Not even close. Not only is the panel way too close to the roof to reach in there, it is fastened down with bolts to brackets that you can't possibly reach with a wrench. I have a lot of tools...and I'm never afraid to "make" a tool that's necessary, but there is nothing I can see here that will work...and if it did...how to put it back together. The brackets are mounted to the roof and covered with a glob of sealant that is larger than my fist. It won't ever leak there that's for sure. I'm very hesitant to screw around with that sealant. I can't imagine the work involved to remove it and not damage the roof.


Here's what I'm thinking. The vertical part bracket is about 2 to 3 inches wide and there may be just enough vertical measurement that I can cut in half horizontally with a cut off wheel. I may only have to cut the two on the outside of the panel and move it up enough to get to the connectors. The brackets are thin and I'm thinking the inside brackets should bend enough to allow that if I'm careful and don't damage the panel. Then, when done, I will take an aluminum patch panel about 1.5" by 2.5" and bolt it to the two sections of the original bracket I cut in half...thus making it solid again. That way, the panel would be so much easier to access if I ever had to do it again and the factory sealant wouldn't be touched.



When I access the connectors, I can follow the suggestions aussieguy and the rest of you made. I'll tell you one thing...if there is a fuse there under that thing and I can't make an easy removal system for that panel, I will get rid of that stupid location in a heartbeat and locate it in the cavity behind the controller.

[jlankford]

The factory installed your panel directly on top of the cable connector roof gland?!? That's just rude.

Before you do what you're planning and cutting the brackets... honestly if it were mine I'd just bite the bullet and unscrew the brackets off the top of the RV. And then plan to reposition the panel for future connector access. You are right that the way those z brackets are attached to the panel frame you can't easily remove the panel from that spot - during installation the z brackets are attached to the panel first, then screwed down to the roof.

I think you are going to create more work for yourself by cutting and re-engineering the brackets. You should watch the installation video I've linked below first to acquaint yourself with how they are attached and sealed to the roof, before you decide how to proceed. It's pretty simple. If I hadn't done this myself on my own trailer I would probably be thinking the way you are. But now that I know the roof attachment is pretty painless and dependable, I would remove the old sealant and back out the screws. And then use fresh butyl tape and self leveling sealant when you screw them back down.

If you reposition the panel to give easy access to the connectors in the future, then I would suggest using EternaBond tape to seal the old screw holes, instead of just a smear of the self-leveling sealant. But for the new screw holes, the combination of butyl tape and self-leveling sealant is the way to go. You can buy those products on Amazon pretty cheaply.

Video:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...-34282181.aspx

[Aussieguy]

can you get to the wires at the gland ... where they disappear down into the roof
you can measure voltage there instead of under the panel

if you got about 18v or more then panel is good
If no voltage then you will have to lift the panel

Panels can often fail with blown diodes....... diodes can be replaced (basic soldering)
not hard to remove the sealant and lift the panel
just make sure you use plenty sealant when you replace


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
while you are up there work out a plan on where and what size panels you can put on roof... for future expansion.

the wire in the roof will probably be good for 30 amps
so you can maximize a layout to take that into account

I got 2 residential 370w panels in parallel, they produce about 20amps at 38v (760w)
the 30 amp wire can handle that because of the higher voltage

I could also put them in series to have 76v @ 10 amps ... still good for the wire

once you have a panel layout then get a controller that works for the panels
I got a MPPT 100/50 which means 100v MAXIMUM panel voltage
and 50amps OUTPUT to battery
Voltage is the important part if you exceed the controller's max it will get damaged.

I got only half my roof layout ... can still add another 800w later.

[GolfingDave]

Just an FYI, you will probably not find a fuse. Go Power started adding the fuse in kits in 2023 the way I understand it.

Good to add though once you get your problem solved.

https://support.gopowersolar.com/kb/...panel-systems/

I just added a third panel recently and was thinking about the brackets also if I ever have to replace a panel while I was up there. I too was on the dremel the brackets and move them rather than try and remove the sealant and screws.

[Crimson Tide]

Just got back from camp where I once again took a look at the panel. As best I can see, there is a long MC4 connector at the gland. I actually called Aims before I left and asked them if there should be a fuse there. (it is an Aims panel as well as controller) He confirmed it could very well have one there. But he was shocked at where it was installed. I am going to bring the trailer home from camp this week where I can do a better job of working on it. I have an idea that may work well for removing the panel without disturbing the seal.



As I told the Aims tech, I can promise you, if there is a fuse located there, it will definitely not have one there when I'm done. I will move it behind the controller or lengthen the wires out of the panel with MC4 connectors and place it where it can be accessed. So stupid...


I will let you know. Thank you for all your help!

[Aussieguy]

I have 2 panels wired together and then they go to the roof gland .... next to the air conditioner

the two wires have MC4 connectors at the gland and can easily be removed for the troubleshooting . You can just measure the total panel voltage at the gland ...


Is your roof panels and gland similar ...
has it got mc4 connections where the wiring goes down inside the trailer and is it accessible?

If there is voltage there ... then there will be no reason to lift the panels looking for fuses or diodes panels are working and you can then start looking at the controller

If there is NO voltage ... you need to lift panel




PLUS when you get trailer BACK home remove the controller take a photo of the back and post it here , so we can then see where and what you are measuring?

[jlankford]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

I have 2 panels wired together and then they go to the roof gland .... next to the air conditioner

the two wires have MC4 connectors at the gland and can easily be removed for the troubleshooting . You can just measure the total panel voltage at the gland ...


Is your roof panels and gland similar ...
has it got mc4 connections where the wiring goes down inside the trailer and is it accessible?

If there is voltage there ... then there will be no reason to lift the panels looking for fuses or diodes panels are working and you can then start looking at the controller

If there is NO voltage ... you need to lift panel




PLUS when you get trailer BACK home remove the controller take a photo of the back and post it here , so we can then see where and what you are measuring?

I think what he said in post #9 and 13 is that the roof gland and MC4 connectors are directly underneath the PV panel, so he can't get to them to measure anything, without removing the panel.

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by jlankford

I think what he said in post #9 and 13 is that the roof gland and MC4 connectors are directly underneath the PV panel, so he can't get to them to measure anything, without removing the panel.

Just asking the he confirms ... post #9 is a bit ambiguous
I too., can not fathom why someone would put a panel on top of the gland

Worse thing my post did.... was use up a few more electrons

[Crimson Tide]

Aussieguy...I would kill for access like you have. Indeed...my gland is directly under my panel. Dumbest thing I have ever seen.


I have removed the controller and checked for voltage there. There are four cables into it. Positive and negative for the battery and positive and negative for the panel. The battery cables indeed give me battery voltage, etc. The panel cables are dead...connected to the controller and disconnected from the controller. Aims actually has me doing a test on those again to ensure the controller is not at fault.


I will have it home this week and see if I can't get some photos up.


Thank you all again.

[Scotts Gone]

I had a similar problem with my previous 2022 GeoPro. Took me 6 months to solve a simple installation error….
In my case….Solar panel flying leads were shortened during installation and MC4 connectors remade….they managed to crimp male connectors on both the remade wires, resulting in 1 connector being “male to male”.
Look into the end of the connectors to make sure the right connectors are installed….i only realized when i decided to replace all the connections as a last resort.

[jlankford]

Originally Posted by Scotts Gone

I had a similar problem with my previous 2022 GeoPro. Took me 6 months to solve a simple installation error….
In my case….Solar panel flying leads were shortened during installation and MC4 connectors remade….they managed to crimp male connectors on both the remade wires, resulting in 1 connector being “male to male”.
Look into the end of the connectors to make sure the right connectors are installed….i only realized when i decided to replace all the connections as a last resort.

Is that a picture of the contacts that are inside an MC4 barrel housing?

[Scotts Gone]

Yes. I bought a crimp set including tool and 8 connectors from Amazon. The metal tubes are crimped to the wire and the housing pushes over them.