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Old 07-03-2022, 06:52 PM   #21
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The fact that some outlets are not labeled does not mean they are not gfci
protected. Many times there is a second or even third) master GFCI for some outlets. Look st outside outlets, near sinks, or outdoor kitchen if you have one. Sounds like you tripped a GFCI master.
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:03 PM   #22
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I'm connected to shore power. 50 amp service.. both ac units are running and cooling properly.. dumb question incoming.. which position should the battery switch be? The one located below the freedom xi panel by the door?
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:08 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RossNSheena View Post
I'm connected to shore power. 50 amp service.. both ac units are running and cooling properly.. dumb question incoming.. which position should the battery switch be? The one located below the freedom xi panel by the door?
The battery switch has to be in the CONNECTED position in order for the converter to charge the battery/ies. When charging, the voltage should read in the high 13 ~ low 14 volts.
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:10 PM   #24
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Ok.. that's what I thought.. the switch is in the correct place.. I'll continue troubleshooting with the links above.. thank you
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:24 PM   #25
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That switch by the door is a spring-loaded center-off switch, isn't it? With a yellow LED?

If so, press the top of the switch. If you hear a "clunk" from the house battery compartment then your house batteries were not connected.

On ours, for whatever reason, the yellow LED on ours does not tell me if the batteries are connected or not. It lights up any time 12 volt DC power is present even if it is from the converter.

In case you're not aware, a converter simply takes 120 VAC and turns it into 12 VDC (actually 13 - 14 VDC) to run all things 12 volt when on generator or on shore power.

The converter should never output less than about 12.9 VDC and its nominal low output voltage is 13.2 VDC.

You probably have a Progressive Dynamics PD9270 70-amp converter. I attached the manual.

But the converter has nothing to do directly with your non-GFCI outlet problem. The PD9270 actually plugs into an outlet so it's likely that its outlet also is dead or you would not be seeing only 12.3 VDC on the inverter panel.

Yeah, your house batteries may be slowly dying because the converter cannot charge them.

If that voltage as indicated on the Xantrex inverter panel continues to fall I'd start the engine and let it run for a half-hour or so to charge them back up.

The attached pic shows the converter's output voltage as a function of time it's been powered up.

Ray
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:28 PM   #26
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Ok. Gotcha.. the low volts is probably a secondary symptom of the ac outlets not working.. I'll fire up the engine and let them charge..and I'll keep looking for the root problem
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:33 PM   #27
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The only GFCI outlets on a GT5 should be near water, such as the kitchen sink. The outlet screwed to the bottom of the cabinet over the kitchen sink on ours has the GFCI buttons but since it's facing down I can't even see its green light normally.

The other GFCI outlets are in the bathrooms, the outside basement compartment, and also the outside TV.

All other outlets should be non-GFCI outlets. The one under the dinette, the ones in the bedroom, the one under the dash on the passenger side, the one in the center overhead compartment in the driver area, the recliners, the TV's inside, those are all non-GFCI on ours.

I do not think the microwave is plugged into a GFCI outlet in the cabinet above the kitchen sink on ours but I'm not sure.

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Old 07-03-2022, 07:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossNSheena
Ok. Gotcha.. the low volts is probably a secondary symptom of the ac outlets not working.. I'll fire up the engine and let them charge..and I'll keep looking for the root problem
No clunk and no voltage change when you pressed the top of the spring-loaded switch, I take it?

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Old 07-03-2022, 07:36 PM   #29
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No clunk and no change.. unfortunately
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:36 PM   #30
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I'm really hoping I'm missing a second gcfi outlet with a reset somewhere.. lol
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:42 PM   #31
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If you have something you can plug in, like a charger with a pilot light, I'd plug it into every outlet you can find and write down which ones are dead. That may help the troubleshooting.

It will be interesting to see if you have 120 VAC going into the inverter or not.

Ray
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:45 PM   #32
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I'm going to begin mapping tomorrow.. I'll definitely update the thread.. even though this problem is a pain in the rear at least I'm learning about my machine.. lol.. thank you again for the help. I'll update when I map the working vs non working outlets
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:52 PM   #33
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Darn. I was just going to tell you to stop playing on the computer and do some work.

The GT5 only has two house batteries and those things don't last real long.

If you can find your converter and you have an extension cord, I'd unplug the converter, plug it into the extension cord, and then plug the extension cord into the 120 volt house outlet on the pedestal and see if the DC voltage on the inverter panel increases. It should jump to about 14.1 VDC. If that works, that will at least keep your batteries from going totally dead overnight.

My converter is in the electrical bay with the power cord. It's screwed to the wall near the top. As an aside, some people have had the converter plug just fall out of the outlet.

Good luck,

Ray
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:55 PM   #34
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Thanks Ray.. will do.. I'll make that happen to keep me going overnight.
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:55 PM   #35
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Oh and my converter is also in the power bay
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Old 07-03-2022, 07:56 PM   #36
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And I'm using my phone while troubleshooting so I'm working and typing simultaneously. Lol.. thanks man. I'll update things as they unfold..
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Old 07-03-2022, 08:10 PM   #37
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Old 07-03-2022, 09:36 PM   #38
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I don’t know if this will help, but you may want to look through it, and bookmark it. It covers 2015 to 2022

https://forestriverinc.help/#/forestriverrv/vehicles/
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Old 07-04-2022, 06:56 AM   #39
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I may have unintentionally mislead you when I wrote that the inverter powers the non-GFCI outlets.

While that is correct, I should have elaborated that the inverter powers the non-GFCI outlets provided for use inside by people. On the GT5 the inverter does not power dedicated-usage outlets such as the one used by the converter, the microwave, the fireplace (on our model), the fridge, etc.

In other words, if an outlet has its own breaker in the interior breaker panel then, on ours, it is not powered by the inverter.

A subtle but important distinction if in fact the outlet used by the converter also is dead.


If the converter outlet also is dead, well, that's just weird. On our GT5 the power path is:

Shore power cord -> Wired to 1/2 of the shore power/generator Automatic Transfer Switch in the electrical bay -> Wired to the interior breaker panel.

There's nothing else in the circuit. So if the converter outlet is dead, that implies a problem with the breaker panel itself or the run of Romex to the converter outlet.

And if that was the problem, why are other outlets also dead?

It may be time to turn the A/C's off, unplug shore power, and fire the generator up to see if the affected outlets are still dead. Since both of your A/C's work, I don't think anything will change, though. Please see my explanation in the next post as to why.

Ray
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Old 07-04-2022, 07:12 AM   #40
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Since I mentioned the generator/shore power Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS), it's school time!

You likely have a Progressive Dynamics PD52 ATS. The PDFs I have are attached.

This ATS consists of two high-power contactors mechanically interlocked so it's impossible for both to be engaged at the same time.

The output of each contactor is jumped together and runs to the interior circuit breaker panel.

The other half of one contactor is wired to the shore power cord.

The remaining contactor is wired to the generator output power.

The ATS is "generator priority". That means if the generator is providing power then it has precedence. Even if shore power is plugged in, as soon as the generator comes up to speed and the time delay circuit board in the ATS times out, the shore power contactor is disengaged, the generator contactor is engaged, and the generator begins providing power to the coach.

When a bunch of seemingly unrelated AC things are dead a standard troubleshooting procedure is to fire up the generator.

If the problem is resolved you know the problem is that the ATS may be defective or the pedestal may be defective, etc.

If the problem does not change then you know the problem is past the ATS.

That's why I asked whether both air conditioner roof units were functioning. In a Georgetown, at least the later model years, one A/C is wired to one half of the ATS and the other A/C is wired to the other half of the ATS. As are other things.

So if you have a power source problem or an ATS problem then one roof unit will be dead. That does not appear to be your problem, though, since both of your A/C's are working.

Ray
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File Type: pdf PD52-PD52DCSD-PD53-Manual-english.pdf (1.19 MB, 10 views)
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