One fuse blows non stop

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 10:23 AM

New Flagstaff owner (2017 29 KSWS). Picked up our pre-owned TT yesterday, dealer went through and showed me that everything worked. I pulled it home (2hrs) and now the forth fuse from the top in the power center 15amp is blowing non stop. From what I can tell it's the one for the Refrigerator, range hood and some of the push button lights. Any suggestions?

Toyman · 01-22-2017, 10:34 AM

Pull it back to the dealer.

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 10:41 AM

I plan on it if I can't figure out the issue, hate to make the 4hr round trip if it's Something simple or something that I am doing wrong.

glen1971 · 01-22-2017, 11:50 AM

Does it blow instantly, or over time? Do you have a digital multimeter? Check the circuit for a short to ground (ohm setting). You may see some reading through the fridge controls or a light bulb. If things look good there, you could check to see what the current draw is. Perhaps the fuse is undersized.

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 12:12 PM

I don't have a digital multimete, guess I need to get one. It blows instantly, need to pick up some more fuses. When we did the walk through yesterday everything worked, with the fuse blown 3 pf the push button lights, fridge and vent hood are the only things that I can find that don't work. It blows even with everything cut off

**Flybob** · 01-22-2017, 12:22 PM

Sounds like a short if it blows immediately. Without a meter, it is going to be hard to troubleshoot. You can get free one or inexpensive one at Harbor Freight. Any of the things that don't work in the slide? Sometimes the wires to the slide get pinched and short. Sometimes you can follow wires some of the run by opening cabinets and drawers. Good luck

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 12:34 PM

I am going to run out and pick one up a little later. The fridge, range hood and one of the push lights are in the slide, 2 other push lights are above the couch in the main area of the Travel Trailer. Other things in the slide still work. It sounds like this is going to be tuff to find

onetonford · 01-22-2017, 12:38 PM

From the floor plans the refer is in the slide so it could be under the slide with a pinched wire.

**Flybob** · 01-22-2017, 12:43 PM

As you said some of the stuff not working is in the slide, I would start there. Extend slide then get under it and look for the wiring. Usually in or attached to a bowed flexible plastic carrier. Look for a spot where the wires may be pinched.

formerFR · 01-22-2017, 01:03 PM

a windshield washer / wiper 5a fuse blew several times on mine, replaced with a 10a fuse and have no issues since - factory must have installed the wrong size

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 01:14 PM

Ok just got under the slide and checked everything and found no pinched wires, everything is in plastic wire conduits and is loose and nothing was worn or anything. I just turned the Battery disconnect off and moved the 15amp fuse from the ac to replace the blown fuse since I was out of fuses. Everything in the slide is now working. Does the battery disconnect have to be off when connected to power?

**Flybob** · 01-22-2017, 01:22 PM

This is good info. However a few clarifications. The AC is 110VAC and is protected by breakers so the fuse you removed is not for AC, but something else. The battery disconnect should be on when plugged in as the converter charges the battery and provides some of the 12V power. You might try putting the slide back in and see if things still work. If the fuse blows with the slide in , then there is an issue with the slide wiring.

Tsb1972 · 01-22-2017, 01:29 PM

OK, took your advice and turned the Battery back on and ran the slides in and out a few times and the fuse didn't blow.

Could the battery have been dead? Would that have caused the issue?

https://instagram.com/p/BPk735Kg90x/

**Flybob** · 01-22-2017, 01:51 PM

OK edit as I just saw the photo, The fuse marked AC may be the power for the thermostat. A dead or very weak battery would blow one of the high current fuses near the top of the panel.

Top B · 01-22-2017, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsb1972

I don't have a digital multimete, guess I need to get one. It blows instantly, need to pick up some more fuses. When we did the walk through yesterday everything worked, with the fuse blown 3 pf the push button lights, fridge and vent hood are the only things that I can find that don't work. It blows even with everything cut off

If it will not let you reset the breaker it it a direct contact short, meaning you hot wire is in direct contact with the neutral or is grounding out on the ground wire, framing or there could be a screw through it. If it lets you reset the breaker and shortly thereafter trips, then it is something else.

zorky · 01-22-2017, 02:47 PM

Like others have said. If it blows immediately you have a direct short, which when people tell you to add a higher value fuse and it seems to not blow, your looking at a potential fire. Never use a higher fuse than called for. You surely have a short from the slide it sounds like. When you opened the slide at home, you "un-shorted" the circuit so now it appears working. I would dig into the wiring feeding the slide and look for some wiring that is missing some jacket. It may not be physically on the slide but where the slide comes to rest inside the coach would be my guess. Without a doubt you will have the issue again unless the short is found. If it shorts again you can trace the short using a continuity test with no voltage present.

Blackhat6mike · 01-22-2017, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsb1972

I don't have a digital multimete, guess I need to get one. It blows instantly, need to pick up some more fuses. When we did the walk through yesterday everything worked, with the fuse blown 3 pf the push button lights, fridge and vent hood are the only things that I can find that don't work. It blows even with everything cut off

Anytime a fuse blows, try to find out why it blew BEFORE you replace it as it's just doing its job. Sounds like you have a direct short and no amount of fuses will FIX that problem.
Any wiring that is not secured and routed directly next to any metal, will rub against it and short out. Lots of bouncing around goes on back there that you don't realize.
You are BEGGING for a fire by replacing fuses without fixing the problem first.

WolfWhistle · 01-22-2017, 03:24 PM

people call any electrical fault a short. Plus you will see continuity to ground on a good circuit... just not low numerically. To blow a properly sized fuse, the hot (12vdc) wire is "shorting" to ground... the frame and anything attached to it is ground ...or (-) ... in this case 15 amp... the resistance to ground would be .8 ohms or less (0 is a hard short) to blow it. While testing; rather than keep blowing fuses. connect VOM to the load side of that fuse; other side to a good ground.... make sure! ... on Ohms ... select Ohms times 1 ... look at meter while running slide in and out or moving what causes the problem and look for a reading to bounce or read towards 0 (zero) . Anything higher resistance (.9 ohms and up... ) should not blow it. You probably won't see lower than 2 ohms.
W

nodrawers · 01-22-2017, 04:23 PM

Better use volts first to decide which side of fuse is hot or can ruin meter if contacting that side to ground. Even if shore power and battery are supposedly disconnected you should check for a hot wire.

mike.t · 01-22-2017, 04:23 PM

Can't help with the short but a little intrigued with the " Picked up our pre-owned TT yesterday' Pre-owned?? 2017??

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