Parallax Electric Panel Troubleshooting

[Alaska Fisherman]

The charger unit is a parallax series 7300 looks like. The trailer is a 2005 forest river cherokee 32B.

Just bought this used. Plugged in the trailer and the Parallax panel started sparking and smoking. The white wire on the front and the back side of the DC Fuse Block Card had fried lugs. I took the wires out and cut them back to clean copper, then bypassed the board (as it looked like it was just a feed through lug and wasn’t required for the hot buss and output fuses. I got everything DC to work just fine, if the shore power was plugged in.

But I noticed that the large # 4 red wire got so warm that you could not touch the metal lug. Has anyone ever notice this? All the fuses felt warm. This was with all the DC lights and heater fan were turned on.

I was not sure if I should get a replacement Fuse Board or if it was just normal to get that hot.

One other thing happened too. When I unplugged the shore power everything turned off. The first thing that comes to mind is there a battery fuse and where would or could it be located?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

If I did this right there should be two photos attached. One of a new panel and one where I reconnected the white wires that were burnt on the board.

[bikendan]

Moved thread from the Forum Administration/News/Member Accounts section to the Electrical and Charging Systems sub-forum since the OP's topic is specific to that sub-forum.

[BRinSCupstate]

I’m thinking the battery has an issue. Maybe a shorted cell. That would cause it to draw excessive current (hot red wire). Since everything went off when you unplugged shore power, that also could be a dead battery. Try disconnecting the battery, charging it with a battery charger and have it checked.

My Flagstaff has a 40 amp resettable breaker mounted under the front corner near battery and the junction box for trailer tow vehicle cable. I think the 40A is for the battery power to Unit. There’s also a 30A. I think it supplies my slide. I also bought used and found my 40A jumped out. All wires were connected to one of the terminals. You could have something similar and that may be why the red wire gets hot. Shorted battery and no circuit protection.

If your issue is the battery, replace it but check the voltage from converter to be sure it’s not too high. It could have overcharged. If it seems normal, I would replace that board.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by BRinSCupstate

I’m thinking the battery has an issue. Maybe a shorted cell. That would cause it to draw excessive current (hot red wire). Since everything went off when you unplugged shore power, that also could be a dead battery. Try disconnecting the battery, charging it with a battery charger and have it checked.

My Flagstaff has a 40 amp resettable breaker mounted under the front corner near battery and the junction box for trailer tow vehicle cable. I think the 40A is for the battery power to Unit. There’s also a 30A. I think it supplies my slide. I also bought used and found my 40A jumped out. All wires were connected to one of the terminals. You could have something similar and that may be why the red wire gets hot. Shorted battery and no circuit protection.

If your issue is the battery, replace it but check the voltage from converter to be sure it’s not too high. It could have overcharged. If it seems normal, I would replace that board.

X2 Look at the battery(ies) first.
I can see that converter has protection fuses so if something were shorted in the wiring those should have blown.

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by Alaska Fisherman

The charger unit is a parallax series 7300 looks like. The trailer is a 2005 forest river cherokee 32B.

Just bought this used. Plugged in the trailer and the Parallax panel started sparking and smoking. The white wire on the front and the back side of the DC Fuse Block Card had fried lugs. I took the wires out and cut them back to clean copper, then bypassed the board (as it looked like it was just a feed through lug and wasn’t required for the hot buss and output fuses. I got everything DC to work just fine, if the shore power was plugged in.

But I noticed that the large # 4 red wire got so warm that you could not touch the metal lug. Has anyone ever notice this? All the fuses felt warm. This was with all the DC lights and heater fan were turned on.

I was not sure if I should get a replacement Fuse Board or if it was just normal to get that hot.

One other thing happened too. When I unplugged the shore power everything turned off. The first thing that comes to mind is there a battery fuse and where would or could it be located?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

If I did this right there should be two photos attached. One of a new panel and one where I reconnected the white wires that were burnt on the board.

For a 4 awg wire to get hot, you would have to had an extremely high number of amps going through the wire or have a loose or corrosive connection at a connector.

I did an experiment with wiring last year. I ran 130 amps through a 6 awg wire and a 4 awg wire. The 6 awg got hot like your 4 awg. My 4 awg was barely warm.

I would clean and tighten all your connections and carefully see what happens. I would also not start with with a large load on the battery.

For me, I might consider replacing your 20 year old panel. I am not sure I would sleep well in the trailer if there are any potential demons in my electrical system.

[Aussieguy]

check that the battery cables have not been switched +/-

check if any solar is connected correctly +/- and measure the output going to the battery.

use digital multi meter to test the voltage going to the panel on the red / white wire makes sure it is reading correct for +/-

use multi meter on OHMS (resistance) to check if there is any shorts


disconnect battery , any solar and the shorepower
clean up that nasty negative and put the wires back in
connect the shore power push pull and otherwisely abuse that negative connection .

if you can find an replacement board.....
I would replace it, especially if I could not find a reason why it burnout. (Battery or short)
OR take off the board and examine carefully the solder joints on the back.


If everything runs on shore power.
the board is salvageable. Looks nasty... but works.


a loose connection or corroded wire on the board may get hot

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine

For me, I might consider replacing your 20 year old panel. I am not sure I would sleep well in the trailer if there are any potential demons in my electrical system.

Best answer.

If the unit has already burned a couple of terminals and/or wires chances are there is other damage that is currently lurking in the background.

A replacement power center will be far less expensive in the long run and will provide both reliability and peace of mind when it comes to safety.

A new 60 amp Progressive Dynamic's power center with new converter will cost less than $300. Yes, it will involve some work but if one carefully labels all wires before removing the old unit it isn't all that bad, just time.

[Turkey Creek 1]

I am no electrcian but shouldn't it be one ground wite for every hot circuit?

[Larry-NC]

You've never stated where the red wire goes.

The white wire (negative side of 12v) is a passthrough--just a convenient way to connect the negative side of the battery to the negative side of the converter (charger) and buss.

Not so for the red wire. The battery connects directly through to the low-amperage fuses that go to the trailer loads (lights, water heater, furnace, fans, etc.) The converter connects through a high-amperage fuse or a pair of high-amperage fuses in parallel, to the battery and loads. These "reverse polarity" fuses protect the converter in case someone has connected the battery backwards.

Besides that, there are "resettable fuses" on most trailers, usually on the underside of the A-frame or just under the front of the trailer itself. If you follow the positive battery lead, it will terminate at a small two-terminal device with a small button on the end. Press that button to reset it.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by Turkey Creek 1

I am no electrcian but shouldn't it be one ground wite for every hot circuit?

On the DC circuit the frame is also ground. DC loads will either be grounded to the frame or back to a negative DC buss bar near the power center which will also be grounded to the frame. I believe the AC side is also grounded to the frame.