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Old 11-10-2022, 04:25 PM   #1
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Parasitic drain

My 2104s trailer is sitting in the back yard on shore power. LiFePO4 batteries were at 13.6 volts after charging. Next day 13.3. I know they come down a bit, but that seemed too much. With everything off I checked and found a .25 amp drain. I pulled all the fuses, through all the breakers, unplugged the emergency trailer brake and TPS repeater. Then I started hooking up/plugging back in. Big culprits were:


Fuse #4 Appli .04 amp
Fuse #7 Stereo .04 amp
Fuse #8 TV .08 amp


Everything else hooked up was a total of .07 amps, something which seems more reasonable.


For the stereo, I'm going to add a power switch to the panel. I have a blank spot. Anyone know where I can get one to match the existing (see photo). But I don't know where to look for the appliance and TV power hogs. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-10-2022, 04:49 PM   #2
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Your CO /propane detector are connected directly to the battery. I a disconnect on my positive battery post and turn off my lifepo4 completely from there.

You want to discharge your battery to 12.8v for storage. Lifepo4 like to be stored at this voltage for longevity.
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Old 11-10-2022, 05:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2WheelJon View Post
My 2104s trailer is sitting in the back yard on shore power. LiFePO4 batteries were at 13.6 volts after charging. Next day 13.3. I know they come down a bit, but that seemed too much. With everything off I checked and found a .25 amp drain. I pulled all the fuses, through all the breakers, unplugged the emergency trailer brake and TPS repeater. Then I started hooking up/plugging back in. Big culprits were:


Fuse #4 Appli .04 amp
Fuse #7 Stereo .04 amp
Fuse #8 TV .08 amp


Everything else hooked up was a total of .07 amps, something which seems more reasonable.


For the stereo, I'm going to add a power switch to the panel. I have a blank spot. Anyone know where I can get one to match the existing (see photo). But I don't know where to look for the appliance and TV power hogs. Any suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-10-2022, 05:40 PM   #4
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Here's another thread on this same subject.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ng-252615.html
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Old 11-10-2022, 06:06 PM   #5
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the radio tv and other stuff that requires a bit of power is so it can remember your settings

you may have to reprogram the radio TV etc each time you turn it on...
may not be worth the effort .. the current draw is very small from these


look for things that have high parasitic draws .... such as inverter
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
instead of the square rocker switch use the round ones....

remove radio or other item to be switched .... find a suitable location to drill the hole cut the power wire so you can crimp on the switch... install switch and radio back in place

a lot easier to drill !

make sure the switches have enough room to poke through the wall material.
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Old 11-10-2022, 06:11 PM   #6
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Forgot... if you are storing and not using it
simply remove the negative battery cable
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Old 11-10-2022, 06:20 PM   #7
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No, we're not storing, we're going boondocking this winter and I want to save every electron that I can. I've got an open spot on the switch panel and will add a switch to shut down the radio.



The TV has a 120 VAC power cord, an HDMI cable and an antenna lead going into it but no 12 VDC. Why is it drawing .08 amps when off? I'm thinking an amp on the antenna line. If so, does anyone know where it is?
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Old 11-10-2022, 06:34 PM   #8
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For the switch profile, you should easily be able to find them on Amazon. It would be recommended to pull and disconnect the current switch from the panel and use it during you search solely for dimensions. There are a metric ton of switches in this world, but with simple dimensions I think you’ll find success quite quick.
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Old 11-10-2022, 07:11 PM   #9
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In my parasite hunt I found the Winegard TV plate had power going to it. I don't use the TV so it was cut out (I removed the antenna as well to make room for another solar panel on the roof). I replaced the Winegard plate with a blank plate that I drilled/installed a toggle switch to kill power to the radio and USB outlets there.

Another parasite that I haven't chased is in a circuit that includes a motion light in my pass-through bay. Even with it off, I suspect it may draw a tiny amp. I don't use that light so it will be easy to eliminate.

You're on the right path chasing parasites circuit by circuit.
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Old 11-11-2022, 08:08 AM   #10
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I set a switch for the radio next to it, but to answer your question, It's a model #DG20A25VP.

While in use, the refrigerator door condensation heater eats up a lot of power, I set a switch for it as well.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/12V-M...-p/69-8775.htm

https://highskyrvparts.com/rv-parts/...itch-dg20a25vp





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Old 11-11-2022, 09:01 AM   #11
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These are the readings I've made with my BMV-712.

Some of the items are replacement of factory components and some are added items that won't apply to your trailer. The factory replacement items (tongue jack, water pump, etc.) are close to factory draws.







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Old 11-11-2022, 06:23 PM   #12
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Thanks

Thanks for all the replies and help. I'm adding a switch to kill power to the stereo. Thanks to postings here I found one that will fit in the one blank I have in the panel (I don't have a tank heater). I found the TV antenna amp and, guess what, it has an on/off switch. With the radio and the TV amp off I'm down to .09 parasitic draw. I can live with that.
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Old 11-11-2022, 08:35 PM   #13
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0.09a x 24 hours = 2.16 amp hours per day or 15.12 per week or 60.28 per month. A single Group 24 lead-acid battery will be dead in that time if in storage -- but you're not in storage so will be fine until storage time.

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Old 11-13-2022, 09:46 AM   #14
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0.09a x 24 hours = 2.16 amp hours per day or 15.12 per week or 60.28 per month. A single Group 24 lead-acid battery will be dead in that time if in storage -- but you're not in storage so will be fine until storage time.-- Chuck

Thanks for the math, Chuck, and you are right about the drain. My concern was not for storage (I throw the battery disconnect when the TT is stored) but when boondocking not wasting any electrons. Can't count on sun every day to keep the batteries charged and so I want to keep the drain to a minimum. With an on/off switch added to the stereo's power and the TV amp turned off I think we'll be OK.
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Old 11-13-2022, 10:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2WheelJon View Post
Thanks for all the replies and help. I'm adding a switch to kill power to the stereo. Thanks to postings here I found one that will fit in the one blank I have in the panel (I don't have a tank heater). I found the TV antenna amp and, guess what, it has an on/off switch. With the radio and the TV amp off I'm down to .09 parasitic draw. I can live with that.

When I hold the power button down for about 5 seconds on the stereo it powers down and doesn't come back on. Are you saying it is still drawing power when the power is off and there is no LED lights displayed?
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Old 11-13-2022, 10:50 AM   #16
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If there's any memory of radio stations the radio is siphoning power all the time. Just like in your car.

The LP detector and radio draw a combined 0.13 amps in my Roo. They're hard wired to the battery in my camper. That's enough to kill a common Group 24 battery in 3 weeks in storage. These don't really have 80 amphours of capacity. Figure on 56 useful amphours before the battery is too dead to do anything but power a dim light.

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Old 11-13-2022, 12:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 2WheelJon View Post
Thanks for the math, Chuck, and you are right about the drain. My concern was not for storage (I throw the battery disconnect when the TT is stored) but when boondocking not wasting any electrons. Can't count on sun every day to keep the batteries charged and so I want to keep the drain to a minimum. With an on/off switch added to the stereo's power and the TV amp turned off I think we'll be OK.
Again, keep in mind these parasitic draws being discussed DO NOT get disconnected with the battery disconnect unless you've rewired your disconnect switch to do so.

Throwing the disconnect switch while in storage thinking you've disconnected everything may very well leave you with a dead battery upon return.

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Old 11-13-2022, 07:49 PM   #18
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Again, keep in mind these parasitic draws being discussed DO NOT get disconnected with the battery disconnect unless you've rewired your disconnect switch to do so.

After taking voltage measurements of the drain I threw the battery disconnect switch on my 2104s. ALL current ceased to flow and the VOM read 0 volts. From what I can tell on my trailer all DC wiring goes through the battery disconnect switch.
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Old 11-13-2022, 08:22 PM   #19
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stabilizers tongue jacks and other outside stuff
don't usually contribute to parasitic draw ...
they don't use power at idle ... while you are not looking..

devices that have a memory boards , converter / transformer (coil) and any electronic device that can use a remote are the usual suspects in the parasite search.
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:38 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 2WheelJon View Post
After taking voltage measurements of the drain I threw the battery disconnect switch on my 2104s. ALL current ceased to flow and the VOM read 0 volts. From what I can tell on my trailer all DC wiring goes through the battery disconnect switch.
That is probably a true statement. I had a 2018 Mini Lite 2104s and the disconnect shut off all loads. I currently have a Flagstaff Super Lite and the picture below shows my disconnect switch (factory) There is one red wire coming from the battery to the top terminal. The top terminal (hot) has the yellow solar on the side and orange emergency brake. No draws from either. The bottom terminal feeds everything else in the trailer: radio, CO, jacks, slides,....

So to confirm you measurements, start at the battery and follow all hot wires to see where they go. Then look at the disconnect switch. If your still stock it will probably look just like mine.

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