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Old 09-14-2021, 01:24 PM   #1
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Please QA DC electrical plan

I have all the parts on the way to finish my DC power install. Before I put everything in, would you take a look and see if there is anything I should consider changing? Especially WRT wire size and breakers. All wire runs are really short (<18") except the runs from the solar panels.

Thanks a bunch!

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Old 09-14-2021, 03:36 PM   #2
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I'm new to all this solar power design but have researched it a lot. I would add a disconnect between the panels and the controller. My research indicates that you "can" damage the controller if the panels are active and you disconnect a battery for any reason. I plan to add one in the circuit when my camper is delivered as FR does not install one in the design.
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Old 09-14-2021, 04:13 PM   #3
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You've got a 120A breaker on the 1200W inverter but nothing on the 2000W one.

If you max out the two inverters at 3200W, that is 267A, more than the 250A breaker you have at the batteries

That converter has single post for positive out? Can't tell with how its drawn (I assume the DC panel and the busbar cables share a post on the converter)
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Old 09-14-2021, 04:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbflag21ds View Post
You've got a 120A breaker on the 1200W inverter but nothing on the 2000W one.

If you max out the two inverters at 3200W, that is 267A, more than the 250A breaker you have at the batteries

That converter has single post for positive out? Can't tell with how its drawn (I assume the DC panel and the busbar cables share a post on the converter)
The batteries cannot handle both inverters at full load, so I want the battery breaker to pop @ 250A. I didn't put a breaker on the 2000W inverter + input because the main breaker will protect the 18" 2/0 wire running to it. If I could find a good 225A CB, I would use that.

The fridge inverter is oversized I think. The fridge draws 800W at startup for 500ms and then 110W running (that's what I measured). I think they put in a 1200W inverter to handle surges? But jeesh, the Xantrex already has good surge capability. If the fridge is running, the 1200W inverter will be drawing 10A-12A, so that leaves a LOT of headroom for the 2000W inverter.

Yup, the converter has dual posts on the + and - inputs. So a direct connection from the batteries to the DC distro panel.
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Old 09-14-2021, 04:38 PM   #5
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Cool, I can see the logic about not having that extra CB but without the breaker on the big inverter you have to disconnect wire to get it out of the system if something goes wrong. It's pretty convenient to just flip the breaker to disconnect.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbflag21ds View Post
Cool, I can see the logic about not having that extra CB but without the breaker on the big inverter you have to disconnect wire to get it out of the system if something goes wrong. It's pretty convenient to just flip the breaker to disconnect.
I decided to add a CB for the 2000W inverter. Just makes sense and is easy to do.

Updated diagram.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:46 PM   #7
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Question on the 20A MPPT on the lower left. Is that for portable panels? Most portable panels have built in controllers unless you want to force the use of plain or residential panels on the ground.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbflag21ds View Post
Question on the 20A MPPT on the lower left. Is that for portable panels? Most portable panels have built in controllers unless you want to force the use of plain or residential panels on the ground.
Wanted to use an MPPT controller and that really limits my choices of 2x100 suitcases if I wanted the controller built in. So for now, I'll plan on getting a Rich Solar 20A MPPT and either build my own 2x100 suitcase or buy one without a controller.

Still deciding what plug to put on the side of the trailer. It came with Zamp. Might switch that over to an Andersen connector.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corn18 View Post
Wanted to use an MPPT controller and that really limits my choices of 2x100 suitcases if I wanted the controller built in. So for now, I'll plan on getting a Rich Solar 20A MPPT and either build my own 2x100 suitcase or buy one without a controller.



Still deciding what plug to put on the side of the trailer. It came with Zamp. Might switch that over to an Andersen connector.
The zamp is probably reverse polarity anyway and Anderson can handle the amperage better but isn't as clean of an install as I haven't seen many options for a flush mount with cover that is 50A and not power pole version
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:08 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jbflag21ds View Post
The zamp is probably reverse polarity anyway and Anderson can handle the amperage better but isn't as clean of an install as I haven't seen many options for a flush mount with cover that is 50A and not power pole version
Found this one on Amazon that should be a direct replacement for the Zamp.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097QG383J...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old 09-15-2021, 09:29 AM   #11
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You are showing two 100a CB on the same leg from converter to positive buss bar. Redundancy or ??.

Good to see switch added between the panels and controllers for disconnect.
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Old 09-15-2021, 10:02 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by JimM2109S View Post
You are showing two 100a CB on the same leg from converter to positive buss bar. Redundancy or ??.

Good to see switch added between the panels and controllers for disconnect.
It was pointed out to me that that wire flows both ways. And itís 4 ft long. When the battery is charging from the converter, the need a fuse at that end. When the battery is feeding the distro panel, it need a fuse close to the battery. I could put it in the middle but thatís not an easy spot to get to. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 09-16-2021, 11:19 PM   #13
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I see a fuse in the roof panel circuit. With just two series panels, this isn't necessary. The short-circuit current from the panels is only an amp or so greater than the max panel current in good sun. Hence there's no way to have something that will trip/open at, say, 11 amps but not 10 amps.
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:36 PM   #14
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UPDATE:

I redid the install and eliminated the Chinese stuff. The main breaker is now a 3 pole 250A from Blue Sea mounted in a box. Went with 4/0 for the main battery cables up to the bus bars. Then 2/0 to both inverters. 2ga to the converter. I dropped the breakers for the inverters. The main breaker will protect those 2/0 wires fine. Besides, I couldn't fit 4/0 lugs into the inverters and didn't feel I needed an additional breaker for 2/0 wire. That stuff is a beast.

I have a second SOK 206Ah LFP on order. Should arrive next week. The 2x200W solar panels are in but it's raining, so that'll have to wait. And still need to heat shrink the connections.

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Old 09-20-2021, 03:40 PM   #15
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Really good planning and execution. Only needs 1 kW of solar and a second solar controller ....... I expect that will come soon enough.

I don't think this applies to your situation, but my son used two 1/0 wires each with its own 150 amp Bussman circuit breaker to feed his 3 kW inverter. Wire and breakers were on-hand so it was an obvious solution to handle the near 250 amp load. The 1/0 are the same length, of course. Seems to be working fine.
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