Plugged in, but no electricity

[Ed H.]

We pulled the plug at the side of the trailer. The wires coming into the trailer from the plug were loose and we tightened them down. Once we replugged everything mostly, it worked. We still don't get the television and some outlets. But we can live with what we've got. Bless you guys for helping us.

[CHICKDOE]

You’re just going to have to check each and every connection. People have reported loose connections within the shore power ends, at the receptacle on the RV that the shore power cord plugs into, in junction boxes where a cable nut came loose, In the transfer switch (if you have one), and even loose wires within the distribution panel. Just be systematic and methodical. Once you find the issue the fix will be apparent. No rocket science here.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Ed H.

We pulled the plug at the side of the trailer. The wires coming into the trailer from the plug were loose and we tightened them down. Once we replugged everything mostly, it worked. We still don't get the television and some outlets. But we can live with what we've got. Bless you guys for helping us.

Now go back and test then reset your GFCI master outlet. It's been reported here that those things don't reset without power so earlier attempts at reset might not have worked.

[TowPro]

I 2nd what mr dan says. Gfi will not reset with out power. And just about every outlet is wired as LOAD on that single GFi (daisy chained)

[TitanMike]

Why is it so hard for people to use simple logic.

Start with the power source and check with either a cheap test light like this:



OR a Multimeter.

See if there is power at the power receptacle. If yes, plug in power cord and check for power at other end.

If yes, open power panel (its an easy task that merely requires a screwdriver) and check for power at the input terminals, one goes to circuit breaker bus and other to neutral bus (with all the white wires).

Since the original post indicated that ALL 120 volt power was off I'm guessing that there will be no power at one of these three points. Common points of interrruption are:

Breaker at power receptacle OFF

Socket at power source defective

Plug on power cord defective

Cord "Cap" (the female end) defective

Cord itself is broken internally (someone drove over it???)

Power inlet on side of Trailer defective or loose connection on inside end.

Lastly it's possible but not very common, the main breaker in the power distribution center is defective (or tripped).

No point in wasting time checking the fuses (of any kind) until you know there is 120 volt power coming into the power center.

It really is as simple as "One, two, three----------" and One is the power source.


In a way diagnosing electrical problems, when there is no power, is like searching for a set of car keys. Don't start looking everywhere, start where you KNOW you had them last.

[Ed H.]

As far as we can determine, we have no GFCI master switch. The bathroom switch just controls the bathroom outlet. We are tired and a little frazzled. We will see if anything else can be done tomorrow. For now, we just appreciate everyone's assistance.

[plymaniac]

Same thing happened to me.

My surge protector lit up as if power was good. I assumed that was true. But no power.

Tried pretty much everything else mentioned here. No luck.

Turned out to be the surge protector. It had falsely reported 50 amp power available even though it was not really sending 110 volts into the rig. It had apparently taken a hit in the very wet Florida Panhandle state park campground we had just arrived at. So I guess it did its job.

Try connecting something besides the rig without the surge protector. If the device works, connect the rig without the protector or get a replacement protector ASAP.

Good luck. We have all been there.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by clr

This may seem simple, but did you turn the plug into the unit to the right after you connected it. I have seen people plug the ac into the unit and not turn to the right, and it would not make contact correctly, thus no ac power to the unit.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This answer!

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by Ed H.

As far as we can determine, we have no GFCI master switch. The bathroom switch just controls the bathroom outlet. We are tired and a little frazzled. We will see if anything else can be done tomorrow. For now, we just appreciate everyone's assistance.

There should be an electrical outlet (one) with the two push buttons in the center - that is your GFCI "master". One of the buttons is "test", the other is "reset". Push the test, and then push the reset. If the reset won't hold in place, you have a problem. FWIW, in my A-frame, the GFCI master is an outlet located very close to the converter - all the other 120v outlets in the camper (except the fridge) are powered off this one.

Although you can now buy GFCI circuit breakers and have the "reset" at the circuit breaker, that is not common in houses or RVs.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by pgandw

There should be an electrical outlet (one) with the two push buttons in the center - that is your GFCI "master". One of the buttons is "test", the other is "reset". Push the test, and then push the reset. If the reset won't hold in place, you have a problem. FWIW, in my A-frame, the GFCI master is an outlet located very close to the converter - all the other 120v outlets in the camper (except the fridge) are powered off this one.

Although you can now buy GFCI circuit breakers and have the "reset" at the circuit breaker, that is not common in houses or RVs.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

According to all the electricians I've talked to this is because the GFCI breakers are expensive and since GFCI's are often a failure point most just use the outlet type. If one of them fails it's cheaper to replace.

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

According to all the electricians I've talked to this is because the GFCI breakers are expensive and since GFCI's are often a failure point most just use the outlet type. If one of them fails it's cheaper to replace.

That's exactly the reason I use GFCI receptacles rather than breakers.
I just bought 4 GFCI receptacles for $55 and one 20 amp GFCI breaker for $56. I wouldn't have bought the breaker, but it's replacing one that's the wrong type and the circuit isn't wired daisy chained.

[Ed H.]

Hooray! Everything is back on and working fine. It is entirely due to the help I received here. It turns out I was incorrect about the bathroom outlet. I had pressed the reset button using my fat fingers, and nothing happened. However, my wife used smaller fingers, and lo and behold, things did reset and everything came on. So, between tightening loose wires at the trailer plug input, and resetting everything, we're good to go. We truly appreciate the great assistance you have provided. God bless.

[GravelRider]

Gotta love a happy ending!

[Chuck_S]

Told ya so (in message #3)! Check the simple stuff first. Nothing exotic about a Roo.

-- Chuck

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Ed H.

Hooray! Everything is back on and working fine. It is entirely due to the help I received here. It turns out I was incorrect about the bathroom outlet. I had pressed the reset button using my fat fingers, and nothing happened. However, my wife used smaller fingers, and lo and behold, things did reset and everything came on. So, between tightening loose wires at the trailer plug input, and resetting everything, we're good to go. We truly appreciate the great assistance you have provided. God bless.

Good to hear you are back in business.

Sometimes a failure is a good thing. While diagnosing the issue you found a future problem you now won't likely have to deal with, the loose connectiion(s) at the power input receptacle.

More than just a few times those loose wires lead to a burned receptacle and even the plug itself.

I have no idea why the factory can't tighten them properly. Using a simple preset torque screwdriver could probably save them a ton of money in warranty claims and gain more happy customers.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I have no idea why the factory can't tighten them properly. Using a simple preset torque screwdriver could probably save them a ton of money in warranty claims and gain more happy customers.

One more tool to fetch for a single purpose. It would slow production down.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

One more tool to fetch for a single purpose. It would slow production down.

Fetch? The factories I've visited have tools at workplace for their tasks or are carried by individuals while working on or in what they're building.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Fetch? The factories I've visited have tools at workplace for their tasks or are carried by individuals while working on or in what they're building.

So they are building the inside of the trailer and the electrical guy DOES use a torque screwdriver in the 120v distribution (breaker) panel. Maybe it's the same guy doing the 12v distribution (fuse) panel. But if it's a different guy, maybe he doesn't have the tool and won't go get it.

And what about the guy doing the one GFCI outlet with screw terminals in the bathroom? If he's just got one outlet to do and he's wearing a tool belt, maybe he will go get the torque screwdriver.

Now, about that outside connector for the 120v cord. Maybe it's the same guy, maybe not. If not maybe he will fetch the tool.

The real problem is that the employees have not been taught how dangerous insufficiently tight connections are.

I've seen it in other situations.

[TitanMike]

"A fish stinks from the head back". The real problem is that the manufacturer isn't totally committed to quality control.

If they were necessary tools would be provided and people required to use them.

Maybe people who experience problems with plumbing and electrical systems should send complaints to RVIA which has established standards. The manufacturer puts theit sticker on the units so maybe RVIA would like to see to it that standards are met.

[raychris1]

I had a similar problem. What I did not notice was that my gfci's had been tripped. Once I reset them everything was good.