Plugging in at home - 30 amp

[purduepete97]

The Background:
Someday soon I will be running electrical service to my storage building. I plan to install a small breaker panel near the front of the building for incoming 60 amp service. From that I will run a circuit for lights, and will hard-wire in a 10 gauge cord for plugging in the TT. That cord will run along the side of the building to the rear, where it'll be easily accessible for plugging in the TT. Reason I am doing this is so I don't have to get out the power cord that comes with the TT when I plug in at home.


The Situation:
On the other end of this hard-wired 10 gauge cord, I need to install a female plug compatible with my TT. I have the twist to lock connection with a screw-on outer ring.

The Question:
Where do I get the plug, and do I need one with twist lock and/or with the screw-on outer ring? Searched Amazon and didn't see a plug only for what I'm looking for, but maybe I'm searching for the wrong thing. . .

Thanks for your help/guidance!

[xman123]

check Homedepot

[TURBS]

http://www.marinco.com/en/products/c...rs/32-amp-230v

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[purduepete97]

Thanks for the quick replies. Dumb f/u question - are these all twick to lock? And, do I have to have the screw-on outer ring since it'll just be used inside my building where it can't get kicked/tugged/accidentally unplugged?
Brian

[TURBS]

Btw you can use a regular 30 amp twist lock end it just won't have the locking ring.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[wmtire]

I think I understand what/why you are doing. However, is it really that big a pain to not use your OE power cord?

You could install a 30 amp TT female end/box, and then just use the power cord with your RV.

Many of the big box stores have the 30 amp RV outlet boxes and/or plugs/receptacles. I prefer having a dedicated outlet box with breaker, so I can easily turn the power off/on at the box when connecting/disconnecting the power cords. If you don't turn the power off when doing this, you will most likely get arcing, which over time will damage the connectors.

http://www.adventurerv.net/amp-power...source=Froogle

Any which way you decide, and as a reminder, the 30 amp is 120 volt (NOT 240 volt). Also how long a run are you attempting to make with only #10 wire?

Here is a link to a wiring schematic we keep here on the forums:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...let-27223.html

Good luck

[purduepete97]

Turbs - thanks for clarifying twist lock and locking outer ring.

WMTIRE - the main reason is that I have to run wire of some type from where the service enters the building back to the rear where my TT plug is. I can get a sweet deal on some new 10-3 exterior grade stranded copper (same type as used to make RV cords). So in reality, all I'm doing is making a super long (60') and cheap (less than $50) RV extension cord with one end hard-wired and the other a female plug to connect to the TT.

Also, I will have a breaker at the box in the front of the storage building, so I can switch off there before connecting/disconnecting. Thanks for that tidbit.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by purduepete97

Turbs - thanks for clarifying twist lock and locking outer ring.

WMTIRE - the main reason is that I have to run wire of some type from where the service enters the building back to the rear where my TT plug is. I can get a sweet deal on some new 10-3 exterior grade stranded copper (same type as used to make RV cords). So in reality, all I'm doing is making a super long (60') and cheap (less than $50) RV extension cord with one end hard-wired and the other a female plug to connect to the TT.

Also, I will have a breaker at the box in the front of the storage building, so I can switch off there before connecting/disconnecting. Thanks for that tidbit.

60 feet may be kinda long for #10 if you are going to use a heavy load on it (like air conditioning).

The wiring pdf I linked to has some recommended wire gauges for length of run.

[TURBS]

8 ga would probably be better.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[purduepete97]

Hmm - something to think about. As far as load, the biggest load I could imagine would be the 13.5 AC unit starting up, but that would be rare. Usually just lights, frig, charging battery. Think I'd be OK? Also, finished length is probably going to be closer to 50' than 60' (60' is the length of cord I am getting).

[donanddona]

Have you ever thought what if? Like maybe install a 50amp receptacle and use a adapter? (inexpensive) Just saying......

[jonrjen]

I think a little differently. I would run enough power to do a 50amp outlet and then use a 50amp to 30amp adapter for plugging in the RV. Because while 30amp service may fit your current needs, what if the next RV comes with 50amp service.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by TURBS

8 ga would probably be better.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

His deal is for 10-3. But 6ga would be even better.

[waiter21]

I made a 50ft "extension cord" for my 30 amp service. Now that I keep it in the MH, I bet I will never need it. ( We spent a few nights at an RV park where the utility poles were on the wrong side and we had to pull in straight to reach the pole)

I purchased the male and female 30 amp connectors at "Menards". This is similar to Home Depot or Lowes.

[purduepete97]

OK - I think I'm gonna go for it. In reviewing inside my head, four factors stick out:
1. the run I'm making is no worse than when I use my regular cord + extension cord at those campground where the pedestal is in the wrong spot.
2. The wire I can get is identical to what is used in RV cords.
3. I can fairly easily control what will be in use at the same time while plugged in at home, so can avoid AC + micro + water heater scenarios.
4. If I ever upgrade to a 50 amp unit, I can either do a 50 to 30 pigtail or upgrade the wiring at that time.

This kind of goes against the always popular "do it right the first time" principle, but then again that principle assumes that you have the necessary funds to "do it right" today when in fact you may only have enough to "do it."

Thanks again for the input and for making me think this through carefully.

And, most importantly, this thread has boosted me over the 100 post mark on FRF. Only 19,389 to go to catch OC.

[M&K Hoffman]

If you run 10/3 cable 60 feet and are drawing 25 amps, (the allowed 80% continuous load) your voltage drop will be right around 3 volts. It is not very often you would be drawing that much current, I say go with the 10/3.
BTW Here is a good plug: 30 Amp Retro Fit Kit

[benagi]

We have a Minnie Winnie 25 ft that we have plugged in to a regular 110 receptacle with an adapter on the RV plug. We do this a day before leaving for a trip. It runs the A/C fridg, etc when loading our unit. We have since purchased a Forester 3171DS. Will we be able to still use the same 110 receptacle in the garage with a standard 110 adapter on the RV plug, or will we have to add a 30amp receptacle in the garage. I think the 110 wall plug in the garage right now is only a 20 amp. Need to check and make sure when I get home today. Thx, Ben

[Ham Camper]

I would also say that 60 feet would be a lot safer if #8 wire was used instead of #10. Heavier is always better and safer

[Captn.Ken]

I just looked on eBay and they have a couple for as low as $7. Be careful about voltage on plug. I messed up and got a 30 amp but it was for 250 volts and wouldn't fit. Need 30 amp for 125 volt to fit TT inlet.

[Saubleguy]

Go to any electrical supplier to buy twist lock female without ring. 30A3wire
2x on the #8 wire.