Positive Wiring Connection Questions

[Theo]

I'm trying to document the positive wiring that is run from the coupler-area of our TT to the positive wiring junction box mounted to the chassis. This is in anticipation of our connecting a solar charge controller to our rig.

I plan to run 2/0 wiring from the battery bank's (+) terminal to the inside of the front pass-through. Within that area, the (+) side with run through a 200A ANL fuse to a battery disconnect then on to a (+) distribution block for all the existing (+) connections, the solar charge controller and a future (fused) 1000W inverter.

The (-) side will be grounded to the chassis in a new (better) place with 2/0 wiring and will also run into the pass-through to a (-) distribution block for the solar charge controller's (-) connection and for the future inverter.

Therefore, I am doing my homework to document what currently (!) exists and have a couple of questions. Note the two (what look like) small distribution blocks in the photo below:

Are these simply 2-position distribution blocks or is there some active feature in them like a breaker?

Our 23IKSS has a rotary disconnect switch that truly disconnects most power to the trailer except for the orange/black wire to the breakaway switch and a mysterious yellow wire:


I have traced the yellow wire to a cap-type crimp terminal that connects to a red wire that goes straight into the positive junction box.

At first, I thought it was for the CO/LP sensor but when the disconnect switch is in the "Disconnect" position, the green light of the CO/LP detector goes off! I have also verified that the smoke detector is battery operated.

Any idea why/what the yellow wire powers when the disconnect switch is off?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Theo

I'm trying to document the positive wiring that is run from the coupler-area of our TT to the positive wiring junction box mounted to the chassis. This is in anticipation of our connecting a solar charge controller to our rig.

I plan to run 2/0 wiring from the battery bank's (+) terminal to the inside of the front pass-through. Within that area, the (+) side with run through a 200A ANL fuse to a battery disconnect then on to a (+) distribution block for all the existing (+) connections, the solar charge controller and a future (fused) 1000W inverter.

The (-) side will be grounded to the chassis in a new (better) place with 2/0 wiring and will also run into the pass-through to a (-) distribution block for the solar charge controller's (-) connection and for the future inverter.

Therefore, I am doing my homework to document what currently (!) exists and have a couple of questions. Note the two (what look like) small distribution blocks in the photo below:

Are these simply 2-position distribution blocks or is there some active feature in them like a breaker?

Our 23IKSS has a rotary disconnect switch that truly disconnects most power to the trailer except for the orange/black wire to the breakaway switch and a mysterious yellow wire:


I have traced the yellow wire to a cap-type crimp terminal that connects to a red wire that goes straight into the positive junction box.

At first, I thought it was for the CO/LP sensor but when the disconnect switch is in the "Disconnect" position, the green light of the CO/LP detector goes off! I have also verified that the smoke detector is battery operated.

Any idea why/what the yellow wire powers when the disconnect switch is off?

They are resettable 12v circuit breakers. Some auto-reset on their own some have a reset button. (small black button on end)
See photo below...

[Theo]

Originally Posted by 5picker

They are resettable 12v circuit breakers...{snip}

Thanks, 5picker!

Also, after I posted this, it dawned on me that I had to install a new rocker switch to turn-off the radio's standby mode (so it remains completely off). I just went out to the TT and verified that the disconnect switch does not turn the radio off. The Yellow Wire Mystery is solved! Whew! That was really bugging me.

FR probably did that to preserve the clock and station settings if the power is disconnected.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Theo

Thanks, 5picker!

Also, after I posted this, it dawned on me that I had to install a new rocker switch to turn-off the radio's standby mode (so it remains completely off). I just went out to the TT and verified that the disconnect switch does not turn the radio off. The Yellow Wire Mystery is solved! Whew! That was really bugging me.

FR probably did that to preserve the clock and station settings if the power is disconnected.

So... just to be sure... you turned on your installed rocker switch and removed the yellow wire from the post and the radio went off? Just wanting to be sure you ultimately know where that yellow/red wire goes!

[hobienick]

The yellow wire may also power the tongue Jack. Mine will work when the main disconnect is off.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by 5picker

So... just to be sure... you turned on your installed rocker switch and removed the yellow wire from the post and the radio went off? Just wanting to be sure you ultimately know where that yellow/red wire goes!

Yes Sir! Yellow wire disconnected = radio off. Yellow wire connected = radio on. Thank you!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Theo

Yes Sir! Yellow wire disconnected = radio off. Yellow wire connected = radio on. Thank you!

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[Theo]

Originally Posted by hobienick

The yellow wire may also power the tongue Jack. Mine will work when the main disconnect is off.

On ours, the tongue jack power is disconnected with the disconnect switch. I'll bet you can guess how I found that out!

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by Theo

On ours, the tongue jack power is disconnected with the disconnect switch. I'll bet you can guess how I found that out!

You never can tell what you're gonna get..

When I finally pull the trigger on solar and a battery upgrade the disconnect switch will truly disconnect everything.

[LegacyFB38]

Originally Posted by hobienick

...the disconnect switch will truly disconnect everything.

This would mean if the switch was inadvertently turned off, there would be no smoke/fire/LP detector(s) or trailer brakes. Yikes!

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by LegacyFB38

This would mean if the switch was inadvertently turned off, there would be no smoke/fire/LP detector(s) or trailer brakes. Yikes!

The advantage of a true disconnect is preventing the propane/CO detector and fridge control board from running down the batteries when not plugged in.

Smoke detectors, at least in A-frames and PUPs, are household 9V battery powered units. The battery should be replaced every year. These are unaffected by any cut-off switch.

A true disconnect has to be located at or beside the batteries to disconnect everything. Not so easy to inadvertently turn off the batteries.
But even if I forget that I had left the switch in the OFF position, the fact that NOTHING works while I'm hooking up gets me checking the disconnect. Further helping me is the fact that the disconnect faces me while I'm hooking up the emergency break away cable.

I have forgotten the emergency break away cable, but have never forgotten to turn the batteries on when hooking up.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

Photo of my cut-off switch - cuts off EVERYTHING

[hobienick]

Yep ^^^

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by LegacyFB38

This would mean if the switch was inadvertently turned off, there would be no smoke/fire/LP detector(s) or trailer brakes. Yikes!

Could this be the cause of my smoke detector not going off when the wife burns the brownies in the oven? It does beep several times when I push the test button. How does this thing work? Is it the magic smoke I hear others talk about or something more mysterious?




Yes, I am being sarcastic.