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Old 02-22-2015, 07:47 AM   #1
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Unhappy Power Converter Question

Yesterday my neighbor and I hooked up a new 30 amp power box so I could plug in my 31 ft Westwood travel trailer. My neighbor misunderstood and rigged the power box for 240 volts. I didn't realize what he had done so I plugged in the trailer and got no lights, no a/c, no radio and no microwave. All the 110 volt sockets worked. When I checked the fuses we found that the main circuit breaker had tripped and I also found one 20 amp fuse blown. Reset the main circuit braker and swapped out another fuse for the blown one. Can anyone tell me if I might have damaged the power converter and if there are any other fuses that might have blown that are not on the main fuse panel. If so where might they be located.
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:56 AM   #2
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Yesterday my neighbor and I hooked up a new 30 amp power box so I could plug in my 31 ft Westwood travel trailer. My neighbor misunderstood and rigged the power box for 240 volts. I didn't realize what he had done so I plugged in the trailer and got no lights, no a/c, no radio and no microwave. All the 110 volt sockets worked. When I checked the fuses we found that the main circuit breaker had tripped and I also found one 20 amp fuse blown. Reset the main circuit braker and swapped out another fuse for the blown one. Can anyone tell me if I might have damaged the power converter and if there are any other fuses that might have blown that are not on the main fuse panel. If so where might they be located.
I hate to hear these stories. Unfortunately it does happen.

First off, let's make sure of the terminology. The 120 volt stuff in your trailer is protected by circuit breakers (like in your house). The 12 volt stuff is protected by fuses (like in your car).

Hold on and I will add more to this post:

The air conditioner, microwave, television, fridge on AC electric, and all outlets are 120 volt A
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:24 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I meant to say 120 volt. 110 was a typo. I understand that the major appliances run on 120 volt and other items run on 12 volt dc. I have two tvs. The one mounted in the living room did not work, the one in the bedroom worked when I plugged into the power outlet. The entertainment center which is mounted above the tv in the living room did not work. In fact nothing works except the power outlets. None of the lights worked, the slides did not work either. As for the 12 volt stuff, none of it works because my batteries are completely drained as we haven't had the trailer connected to an outside source for more than a year. I can only assume that the power converter fried when we plugged in the shore power. Just to clarify we rewired the shore power box for 120 volt after realizing the mistake we made. Your reply is much appreciated and I do believe that the power converter will have to be replaced.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:26 AM   #4
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Something just went wrong with the website. I just lost many paragraphs of posts.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:32 AM   #5
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What was just lost as the site reset itself was that usually you lose the converter, microwave, and television in a 240 volt situation.

Even if they don't give up the ghost initially they may fail later from internal injuries.

Sometimes, the microwave and TV have an internal fuse that can be replaced, thus saving them.

Have you checked the television and microwave?

Also the converter is your battery charger. Your 12 volt stuff (lights, fans, pumps ) will operate off the battery until it drains. If your converter isn't recharging the battery, then these 12 volts things will cease operation once the battery drains out.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:31 AM   #6
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I would invest in a good quality surge protector. Depending on the model, it would have prevented that from happening.

There are many posts (horror stories) about bad power pedestals at camp grounds.

I have this unit.

EMS-PT50C

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Old 02-22-2015, 09:49 AM   #7
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I would invest in a good quality surge protector. Depending on the model, it would have prevented that from happening.



There are many posts (horror stories) about bad power pedestals at camp grounds.



I have this unit.



EMS-PT50C




How much was that? That's actually a pretty good idea. I had a surge at a park damage my convertor on our old Mallard. It didn't go completely out though. All it did was pulse the lights like a bad connection when 120 was connected to the trailer.

The convertor are usually fused but only for the 120 volt side I believe. To the OP, did you check the convertor fuses? They are right on the convertor.
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:01 AM   #8
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I use this one as well. This particular model is for 50 amp service. The 30 amp model you would use is probably a couple hundred dollars and has a lifetime warranty.

Good luck,
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:10 AM   #9
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How much was that? T
I paid $303 for the 50 amp version, the 30 amp is less.
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:24 AM   #10
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How much was that? That's actually a pretty good idea. I had a surge at a park damage my convertor on our old Mallard. It didn't go completely out though. All it did was pulse the lights like a bad connection when 120 was connected to the trailer.

The convertor are usually fused but only for the 120 volt side I believe. To the OP, did you check the convertor fuses? They are right on the convertor.
I suggest you get the hard wire unit with the remote pendent.
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:10 AM   #11
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I got the 30 amp version of the above progressive surge protect. I cut the alum tag off mine easily with a tin snip and now secure it with a pad lock and a cable. Call me a nontrusting fellow but at 200 smacks I will keep up with it...

I got it while my coach was being built, so I have never put power to the coach without it..... Can not recommend this product enough!
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #12
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If you get the hardwired progressive there's no worry ever of theft.
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:30 PM   #13
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I suggest you get the hard wire unit with the remote pendent.

I would be much more interested in an hardwired alternative for sure. Do you have a link?
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:36 PM   #14
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As for the 12 volt stuff, none of it works because my batteries are completely drained as we haven't had the trailer connected to an outside source for more than a year.
I think your first order of business is to get the batteries charged or replaced.
As I understand it, some converters will not power the lights etc. with dead batteries.
And it may not charge them up from the shore power.

Try a regular battery charger to see if they will come up. If not replace them before more trouble shooting.

At least get your slides and lights working. Some other items will require battery power also like air conditinoer, heater control board, reefer.
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #15
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ChevyTech, here ya go.......

Progressive Electrical Management System, Hardwire 50A/240V EMS-HW50C
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:54 PM   #16
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Of course the OP's situation was different from mine, VISUALLY check the 40 amp fuses.

I hooked up a new battery IN REVERSE and blowed the fuses. I thought I had fried the converter. Changed the fuses and I was good to go!
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:50 AM   #17
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That's a great idea and inexpensive as opposed to fixing a fried converter. I pulled the power converter assembly and did not see any fuses on the mb. I did find two rectifiers side by side where the motherboard appeared to have burn marks right where the rectifiers are soldered into the mb. I decided to replace the entire mb assembly for $133. Not going to take any chances of future problems. I wanted to thank all of you for the suggestions and for sharing your own experiences. Very helpful group of folks here.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:13 PM   #18
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My neighbor misunderstood and rigged the power box for 240 volts. I didn't realize what he had done so I plugged in the trailer and got no lights, no a/c, no radio and no microwave.
The physical shape and location of every prong on that plug defines how he should have wired it. Any plug designed for 120 volts must never be wired for 240 volts. Does not matter what he heard. He must know exactly what wire connects to what plug or receptacle prong so that an overvoltage could never happen.

Does not matter what anyone says. Which wire connects to what prong is the only way he can wire it. Otherwise that guy needs a serious education in fundamentals for human safety.
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