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Old 09-12-2014, 07:40 PM   #1
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power cord

Is the power supply to TT polarity sensitive ? It is 30A 125V. Standard three prong plug.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:56 PM   #2
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Is the power supply to TT polarity sensitive ? It is 30A 125V. Standard three prong plug.
DO NOT PLUG IT INTO A STANDARD 30A household receptacle as they are 220 and the tt is 110. You will fry all the 110 appliances and the converter.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:02 PM   #3
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Thanks OldCoot. I know it is 110v. My question is can the two flat prongs (1 110v & 1 neutral) be connected either one hot & other one neutral.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:10 PM   #4
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Thanks OldCoot. I know it is 110v. My question is can the two flat prongs (1 110v & 1 neutral) be connected either one hot & other one neutral.
Wire it like the diagram shown.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #5
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That is what I did. My question again is will it cause any damage if you cross the hot & neutral connections ( not the ground). You really have no way of knowing, unless you check receptacle at every campsite you use with voltmeter, how it may be wired.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:33 PM   #6
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power cord

Yes it is dangerous. That is why the neutral screw is silver colored and the hot is brass colored. It is long winded to explain why. The easiest way to check the outlet is with a polarity tester. It will instantly tell you if the 30 amp campground outlet is wired correctly. Just plug it into a 15 amp to 30 amp adaptor and plug the combo into the campground outlet.

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Ben...3501/202867890

This may help to answer your question.

http://inspectapedia.com/electric/El...d_Polarity.php

The adaptor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171156146172?lpid=82


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Old 09-12-2014, 08:47 PM   #7
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If that be the case, you should check every campground receptacle you plug in to, because you really do not know if it is wired correctly, you just assume that it is.
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:00 PM   #8
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power cord

Absolutely every time.

1- turn off the circuit breakers to the 30 amp outlet and the 20 amp GFCI outlet.
2- plug in the polarity combo into the 30 amp outlet and turn on the 30 amp breaker to the outlet. If it checks out OK turn off the breaker, if not DO NOT PLUG IN THE TRAILER. NOTIFY THE CAMPGROUND AND MOVE TO ANOTHER SITE OR HAVE THEM REPAIR THE OUTLET. IF IT IS REPAIRED CHECK IT AGAIN AND ONLY PLUG IN IF IT PASSES THE TEST.
3- now plug the polarity tester into the GFCI outlet and turn on the 20 amp breaker. If the polarity tests OK push in the button on the polarity tester to test the operation of the GFCI outlet, it better trip and shut off. If it does reset it and remove the tester. IF IT FAILS THE TEST DO NOT USE THE OUTLET.
4- now with the 30 amp breaker off plug in the power cord from the trailer and then turn on the breaker.

AS A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN THIS IS THE PROCEDURE I RECOMMEND.

On edit: I strongly recommend a surge protector be used at all times.


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Old 09-12-2014, 09:10 PM   #9
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Have been RVing for many years & have never myself or seen anyone else check this. That is why I assume that the electrical hook up is not polarity sensitive.
I too am a 45 year electrician & was just looking for an answer to this.
I appreciate all the help.
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:11 PM   #10
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If that be the case, you should check every campground receptacle you plug in to, because you really do not know if it is wired correctly, you just assume that it is.
Another reason many of us won't plug in without our ems. I use a progressive dynamics hard wired unit.
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:12 PM   #11
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Another reason many of us won't plug in without our ems. I use a progressive dynamics hard wired unit.
Yep!
I also use adapters and a gfci tester that shows if polarity is correct or not. I Also check voltage across all contact points to make sure there is no open ground or neutral (with the 50amp service) or 220 when I had a 30amp camper. And I do this before I plug in with my Progressive ems unit (thats hardwired) gets any juice. I just dont want to ruin a weekend, so I check it all out!
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:29 PM   #12
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Have been RVing for many years & have never myself or seen anyone else check this. That is why I assume that the electrical hook up is not polarity sensitive.
In 20 years of popup camping, I never had a problem. You assume that the CG wiring was all done by a licensed electrician, but.... even a licensed electrician can make a mistake and it catches up with you. Earlier this year, I had problems at the local state park. Bought the tester shown above and now use it as jwedell says.
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:39 PM   #13
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A progressive industries ems surge guard will prevent power into your trailer in case a less then qualified electrician wired the pole.
It could accidentally be 220 volt and you'd still be fine.

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Old 09-15-2014, 06:28 AM   #14
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Have been RVing for many years & have never myself or seen anyone else check this. That is why I assume that the electrical hook up is not polarity sensitive.
Polarity reversal does create a human safety issue. But human safety is done in layers. Other protection layers cause so many to not observe the problem.

Polarity reversal is dangerous if existing protection from that fault has been compromised inside some appliance.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:37 AM   #15
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Here some info on reverse polarity for RV's....

A more serious situation could arise from reversed polarity situations. If for some reason the neutral side of your RV wiring came into contact with your rig chassis--say someone accidentally connected the ground wiring to the neutral, or a staple, screw, or nail penetrated the electrical wiring and allowed those two sides to make electrical contact, then a serious situation could arise. A reversed polarity connection could potentially allow electrical current to flow across your rig's metal skin, and if any hapless human (or animal) were to touch the rig while in contact with earth ground, a serious shock could result. We're talking mortality here, not a good way to come back from an RV outing.


The shocking truth about campground electricity
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:38 AM   #16
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Thanks to all that responded to this question.
As I stated earlier in this thread, after many years of RVing, I have never seen anyone test the power supply before connecting. It will now be my practice to do so. It is a quick, simple test to do. If you don't, the results could be very dangerous. My advice to all is to do this test without fail, it's not worth taking a chance.
Every one be safe so you can enjoy the trip.
Much Thanks
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa GLS View Post
Thanks to all that responded to this question.
As I stated earlier in this thread, after many years of RVing, I have never seen anyone test the power supply before connecting. It will now be my practice to do so. It is a quick, simple test to do. If you don't, the results could be very dangerous. My advice to all is to do this test without fail, it's not worth taking a chance.
Every one be safe so you can enjoy the trip.
Much Thanks
You should watch me hook up!

I check power and water before we disconnect the truck (after seeing some bozo at Goshen fill a sewer connection with gravel I will start checking that too).

I have had to move 2 times in the past due to bad power at the campground pedestal and my Franks Autotransformer "repaired" MANY more where the available voltage was too low (but "passable").
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:06 AM   #18
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...(after seeing some bozo at Goshen fill a sewer connection with gravel I will start checking that too)...
And the bozo could actually walk, talk and drive?
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:29 AM   #19
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I would say that it doesn't matter that much. The neutral and hot hot will both carry the voltage and current. I only have Navy electrical experience and our outlets are wired with two hots and no neutral. We put 60 volts to each leg and all personal equipment works without an issue.
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:42 AM   #20
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You should watch me hook up!

I check power and water before we disconnect the truck (after seeing some bozo at Goshen fill a sewer connection with gravel I will start checking that too).
X2 What Herk Says I *Never* unhook before I check power and water.

Now sewer...WOW what a idiot @ Goshen! Never thought of checking sewer (although a plugged sewer could spell disaster if EPIC proportions! )

So...
Electric - check with Progressive PMS
Water - turn on spigot to check
Sewer - Um... It LOOKS OK but what should we do? snake a LED optic down the pipe?

Any thoughts on how to go about verifying that a tank dump will not result in a poop gyser?
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