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Old 06-22-2014, 06:37 PM   #21
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Any other suggestions for the frig?

Do you smell propane or hear the flame light when you select GAS?
Have you reset the high temp circuit breaker in the stack?
Is there yellow corrosion in the lower right hand side of the coils?
Is the thermistor attached to the fins?
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:24 AM   #22
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I'll have to check these items when I go back to my property this next weekend.

The thermistor is attached to the fins. But I'll check again when I go back and make sure it has good contact.

I've only used my frig once since I purchased the TT new back in December so I'm hoping there is no corrosion.

In order to check the items in the pics you sent, do I need to pull the frig out of the wall or can those items be accessed from one of the panels on the exterior of the TT?
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:48 AM   #23
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Any other suggestions for the frig?
There are fuses in the outside fridge access panel.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:27 PM   #24
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Thanks! I'll explore that this weekend.


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Old 06-25-2014, 06:03 AM   #25
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Don't take this the wrong way but is your fridge plugged in in the back, a friends brand new unit was not from the day he bought it and took him a while to figure out why he was going thru so much propane. Good luck with your issue Herk seems to be giving GREAT advice.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:59 AM   #26
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Don't take this the wrong way but is your fridge plugged in in the back, a friends brand new unit was not from the day he bought it and took him a while to figure out why he was going thru so much propane. Good luck with your issue Herk seems to be giving GREAT advice.
"Not plugged in" only affects the 120 volt heater.
It has no affect on the DC/Propane side at all as your friend found out.

As long as the unit is not cooling on DC/Propane either, the issue is on the control/cooling system.

The fin thermistor does not need to "touch" the fin to work. It works by the height above the floor of the fridge as it measures the air temperature and only uses the fin as a mounting place. Sliding it up and down changes the level in the fridge it measures the air temperature at.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:31 AM   #27
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Yes it's plugged in because the interior light is coming on and the Auto light illuminates.


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Old 06-25-2014, 11:57 AM   #28
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A long shot here. Vapour lock. If there is gas, flame, 12 V etc.

Years ago with my 1983 Corsair my Dometic developed vapour lock. Remove the fridge, turned upside down, drove around the town in back of the GMC Safari for 15 minutes and reinstalled. Worked just fine. This same thing happened to my parents 1968 Citation Dometic as well. There is a fridge specialist south of St Thomas Ontario called Gamons RV, he fixes these sealed systems rather inexpensive as well.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:48 PM   #29
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I thought vapor lock came about in high altitudes? I'm in Texas practically at sea level so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But then again I've seen some strange stuff happen to equipment over the years.


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Old 06-25-2014, 02:10 PM   #30
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I thought vapor lock came about in high altitudes? I'm in Texas practically at sea level so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But then again I've seen some strange stuff happen to equipment over the years.


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Vapor lock can come from anything even a trailer not being level. Get a hammer and start tapping all around the pipes you can see. Thats why you can drive with gas on. the movement it causes with the road bouncing. It sounds like you have lock someplace that can jar it loose. Vapor lock is not a high altitude problem. The orifice is that problem. Hope you can break it loose.....
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:32 PM   #31
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Ah ok. Well I'll try all this stuff when I get back to the trailer tomorrow night.

I'll keep everyone updated.


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Old 07-19-2014, 11:08 PM   #32
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Well I FINALLY was able to make it back to my TT today. I think I definitely have a power converter problem that's causing the refrigerator problem. I got there and the battery on the trailer was practically dead with shore power plugged in. The interior lights were even dim since the battery isn't charging. The battery was replaced just 3 weeks ago. So I plugged the trailer into my Suburban for 12v power and everything works except the refrigerator. I left the Suburban running for an hour to see if the refrigerator would start up but no luck. So I'm thinking definitely a power converter issue and maybe potentially the refrigerator too. The TT is less than a year old so it still has a warranty.


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Old 07-19-2014, 11:42 PM   #33
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Forgot to mention that I did check the fuses behind the exterior panel and they were fine. Also tapped the lines in case of vapor lock but no luck.


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Old 07-20-2014, 07:04 AM   #34
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Forgot to mention that I did check the fuses behind the exterior panel and they were fine. Also tapped the lines in case of vapor lock but no luck.


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It sounds like a converter problem. Your refer might still be okay being that the controls are 12v. It takes a lot longer then an hour to see if the refer is bad. I'll attach a trouble shooting guide to test your converter. Hope this helps
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:13 AM   #35
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this one might help more....
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:18 AM   #36
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When I had a similar problem on my travel trailer, on my very first trip out no less, I bought replacement battery to get me through the trip, etc. Took it to dealership and left it, only to find out it was simply 40 amp fuse to the converter was blown, preventing battery to charge, etc. I was happy it was such an easy fix, albeit a tad embarrassed. But just another nugget of knowledge in the constant RV learning process!

I hope you get your problems solved fairly easily and soon.

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Old 07-20-2014, 07:22 AM   #37
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Well I FINALLY was able to make it back to my TT today. I think I definitely have a power converter problem that's causing the refrigerator problem. I got there and the battery on the trailer was practically dead with shore power plugged in. The interior lights were even dim since the battery isn't charging. The battery was replaced just 3 weeks ago. So I plugged the trailer into my Suburban for 12v power and everything works except the refrigerator. I left the Suburban running for an hour to see if the refrigerator would start up but no luck. So I'm thinking definitely a power converter issue and maybe potentially the refrigerator too. The TT is less than a year old so it still has a warranty.


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Fridge:

Did you have propane?
The fridge will not run on DC without a solid source of propane.

Did you check the fridge fuses?
There is one in the power center and one on the control board (under outside cover).

Converter:

Will need 120 VAC at converter input wires and should measure over 13 volts WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. You can not check converter output with the battery in the circuit.

Here is the troubleshooting guide.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:27 AM   #38
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Thanks W. I'll double check that fuse on my next trip back to the trailer. Thought I checked them all but.... Lol. I hope that's all it is.

Herk - I tried both electric and gas and nothing. I figured after an hour I'd at least feel a slight chill on the coils/fins in the back of the frig but there wasn't.

Maybe you can clear up something for me on how the frig operates. My understanding is if the fridge button is on Auto it will automatically select between electric and gas but default to gas if electric is not available. So if the fridge is running on electric would it still need propane to run?
I've tried to get it start both methods and still don't get any slight chill on the coils/fins.


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Old 07-20-2014, 11:24 AM   #39
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I came across this little nugget of info while looking into this further for you, so it might answer at least part of your last question:

"The fridge always needs 12 volts to the circuit board in order to operate, regardless of whether it is running on gas or AC."

So if that guy is right and your 12 volt power is acting up, that could be partly to blame. Pure speculation on my part - I'm far from an RV expert!
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:54 AM   #40
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I came across this little nugget of info while looking into this further for you, so it might answer at least part of your last question:

"The fridge always needs 12 volts to the circuit board in order to operate, regardless of whether it is running on gas or AC."

So if that guy is right and your 12 volt power is acting up, that could be partly to blame. Pure speculation on my part - I'm far from an RV expert!
X'2 on that you do not need propane to run on electric. All the controls that tell it and sense the 110v are 12v. If you just plug into 110v and you are on auto it will switch over, When your selector board is in auto. You still need 12v to run that board. If your battery's were low it will not work and lock out even on 110v. Even if you switch it over to gas it will not work . If it's a Norcol you have a green led for electric that is 12v and yellow for gas 12v. also your refer light inside. You will not feel the difference in the coil area in 1 hr. If your refer is Dometic I really do not know what I have said is for a Norcol......I would take a charger with you next time, get up to 80% charge and try it in electric first green light only will be lite. Then switch to Gas yellow led will light. after that put to auto and it should show green when hooked to 110v. Hope that helps and didn't muddy the water on you.
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