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Old 07-20-2014, 03:10 PM   #41
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All things being equal, plugging into a 120 volt source is all you need to run the fridge.

However, nothing ever is that simple.

As stated previously, in order for shore power to run the fridge there has to be a solid 12 volts of DC power available.

Normally, the converter will supply that 12 volt control voltage. If the converter is (broken/disconnected/just not getting to the camper due to an open fuse), the battery should supply the 12 volt control power until it is dead (or too low).

If the battery is dead (voltage below 11 volts), even if you FIX the converter, it may not turn on. There is circuitry in the converter to prevent you from powering up a "shorted" or "dead" battery.

That is why you ALWAYS disconnect the battery to troubleshoot the converter.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:31 PM   #42
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Just for info, the buttons in the freezer compartment will chill hours before the fridge coils.


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Old 07-20-2014, 05:44 PM   #43
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Thanks everyone! I'll let y'all know what I find out after my next trip to the trailer.


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Old 07-20-2014, 06:50 PM   #44
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If you find that it is bad and you are out of warranty, I have a 55 amp WFCO sitting in my garage. You pay the shipping and it's yours. I went to Progressive and changed it out. It's about 6 mos old works fine, just wouldn't ever drop down to 13.2 float, from reading parasites all the time. The progressive will not do that. Just send me a PM or something. Hope you get it figured out......
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:05 PM   #45
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Checked the 40 amp fuses in the converter and they were good. Also noticed the microwave was dead so I took the trailer in for service on Monday. Dealer said they can look at it by the end of the week. I'll let y'all know what they find.


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Old 07-24-2014, 06:22 AM   #46
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Checked the 40 amp fuses in the converter and they were good. Also noticed the microwave was dead so I took the trailer in for service on Monday. Dealer said they can look at it by the end of the week. I'll let y'all know what they find.


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Would have been nice to know you had other 120 volt issues besides the converter. The good news is the "fix" could be as simple as a loose wire at the power center's circuit breakers.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:17 AM   #47
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I wish I would've caught it sooner too but I didn't notice the microwave was dead until this past Monday when I was doing further troubleshooting. When I noticed it was dead I stopped what I was doing, called the dealer and dropped it off.


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Old 07-24-2014, 06:38 PM   #48
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Well hopefully it's nothing too major and they can get you back on the road again soon enough. With microwave not working too I'm at a total loss.

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Old 07-24-2014, 06:42 PM   #49
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Yeah, I'm totally frustrated at this point. I'm hoping they're not going to have it for weeks like most dealers have been telling me, but then again I know it's that time of the year where service departments are the busiest. I was hoping to take a trip in August but I'm not holding my breath now.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:51 PM   #50
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Just wanted to give a quick update.
Got word today from the dealer that the converter is bad and so is the microwave. They're waiting on a response from Forest River's warranty department before they can move forward. Hopefully that doesn't take too long and hopefully the replacement parts won't take too long to get.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:36 AM   #51
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At least now you know what the problems were. Wonder if converter issue contributed to the microwave going out? Here's to wishing u good luck to a speedy repair and that you can be back on the road before summer ends!

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Old 08-02-2014, 04:00 PM   #52
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If I were you I would ask my dealer to put in a progressive 4600 converter and you will pay the $35.00 difference in cost, well worth it......
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:00 PM   #53
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Yeah I'm wondering the same about the microwave too. Hopefully know even more next week.

Upgrading the converter is a great idea G. I'll ask about that when I call them next week. Thanks for that suggestion. With the trailer still being under warranty until the end of December, Forest River may not want to the dealer to put in a different brand converter. I'll see how it goes though.


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Old 08-05-2014, 03:10 PM   #54
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Heard back from the dealer. The converter was toast. They had to go ahead and put in a new one just to finish troubleshooting the other problems. Heating element in the frig has to be replaced. TV and microwave are both toast. Forest River is covering everything under warranty.

Just to be on the safe side, I want to have my electrician check my 30amp plug again. I hear there is a difference in an RV electrical outlet wiring compared to others. Can someone give me advise on what I need to know so I can explain it to my electrician in case he isn't familiar with wiring RV electrical outlets?

Thanks everybody!


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Old 08-05-2014, 09:04 PM   #55
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Heard back from the dealer. The converter was toast. They had to go ahead and put in a new one just to finish troubleshooting the other problems. Heating element in the frig has to be replaced. TV and microwave are both toast. Forest River is covering everything under warranty.

Just to be on the safe side, I want to have my electrician check my 30amp plug again. I hear there is a difference in an RV electrical outlet wiring compared to others. Can someone give me advise on what I need to know so I can explain it to my electrician in case he isn't familiar with wiring RV electrical outlets?

Thanks everybody!


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I do not know of any difference in 30 amp wiring. 30 amp 110v is the same as your house circuit. Just make sure the polarity is correct. Nothing special, you got some bad info from someone....... You just need a the same reciprocal as your plug end.
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:48 PM   #56
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It had something to do with making sure the common and neutral were a certain way. This is something my contact at the service department mentioned to me. He said he's seen a lot of converters blown because the common and neutral we're not wired properly.


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Old 08-06-2014, 04:27 AM   #57
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It had something to do with making sure the common and neutral were a certain way. This is something my contact at the service department mentioned to me. He said he's seen a lot of converters blown because the common and neutral we're not wired properly.


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All you need is 3 wires to your plug, hot, common and ground no such thing as a neutral in 110 volt wire system. Just make sure that your hot and common are the same as your plug end. Never heard that term before, Remember your unit is 110 volt not 220 volt.......
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:32 AM   #58
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The fortunate thing is that the stuff is still covered under warranty.

I can't offer much assistance with regards to your RV wiring question. If the dealer can't check that for you, maybe a trip to the factory for them to take a look might be a good idea, if you live close enough to make that kind of journey

I could make a suggestion on a related subject. Consider investing in a surge protector or similar type unit. The EMS units will assist with things like reverse polarity, drops in voltage, etc with regards to what is coming from the pole. Surge Guard and Progressive Industries are 2 popular makes; I went with the latter, which has lifetime warranty.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:03 AM   #59
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Here are a couple of good links below. The biggest mistake people make is assuming that a 30 amp RV connection is the same as a dryer outlet. A 30 amp RV connection only has one hot lead, a neutral and a ground connection. A dryer has two hot leads and could apply 240 volts to your 120 volt appliances in your RV. I'm not saying this what happened to you, but this scenario could definitely cause the troubles you had. Here are some good links to how a 30 amp RV connection should be made. When looking at an RV receptacle that is oriented so that the two blade connections are at the bottom, the one at the 7 o'clock position should be the one that is hot. The other blade connection is the neutral.

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf

How to Wire an RV Receptacle : Electrical Online
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:44 AM   #60
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How long has it been running?

It takes about 24 hours on AC and about 18 hours on gas to "get cold."

As to the current limiters, there is at least one and sometimes two. The button is pretty small and on the short side.
So that is what that thing connected to my battery terminal is. I always wondered what it did?

How do they function. And what is their purpose?

Thanks,

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