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06-08-2013, 08:17 PM
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#101
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Between Pickles Gap and Toad Suck, AR
Posts: 6,070
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OK.
EMS PT-30C it is.
Going once............going twice..............
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06-08-2013, 08:23 PM
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#102
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandJCarm
OK.
EMS PT-30C it is.
Going once............going twice..............
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I would recommend the hardwired unit, but either way the PI is a great choice.
__________________
Jack of all trades - Master of none
2012 F350 CC DRW - 6.7L PSD
2014 Sabre 36QBOK
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06-08-2013, 08:43 PM
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#103
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QCCowboy
I would recommend the hardwired unit, but either way the PI is a great choice.
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I'm with qc on this one!
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06-08-2013, 09:03 PM
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#104
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Between Pickles Gap and Toad Suck, AR
Posts: 6,070
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Every time I get close, another question..................
So, why the hardwired? The hardwired installation instructions say I have to cut the power cord, wire this thing into it somehow, and the other unit is already a part of the power cord.
I'm trying to get what I need, but I can't figure out where the hardwired unit goes, how to wire it in since the specs say "cut the power cord" (Which makes me uncomfortable), or why it's better.
Can you help me with these 3 questions?
And thanks, so far.
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06-08-2013, 09:05 PM
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#105
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandJCarm
Every time I get close, another question..................
So, why the hardwired? It says I have to cut the power cord, wire this thing into it somehow, and the other unit is already a part of the power cord.
I'm trying to get what I need, but I can't figure out where the hardwired unit goes, how to wire it in since the specs say "cut the power cord" (Which makes me uncomfortable), or why it's better.
Can you help me with these 3 questions?
And thanks, so far.
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I put mine behind the converter.
Inside my camper.
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06-08-2013, 09:07 PM
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#106
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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The orange wire needed to be cut
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06-08-2013, 09:08 PM
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#107
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandJCarm
Every time I get close, another question..................
So, why the hardwired? It says I have to cut the power cord, wire this thing into it somehow, and the other unit is already a part of the power cord.
I'm trying to get what I need, but I can't figure out where the hardwired unit goes, how to wire it in since the specs say "cut the power cord" (Which makes me uncomfortable), or why it's better.
Can you help me with these 3 questions?
And thanks, so far.
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Tubbs has some great pics. You will need to cut the power between between the incoming power and the converter/power panel. Why? It is always there, you won't forget it, it won't get wet and potentially fault, and if you get the optional remote display you can read all of the information about the electrical system from inside the camper. Oh, it won't "get legs" either.
__________________
Jack of all trades - Master of none
2012 F350 CC DRW - 6.7L PSD
2014 Sabre 36QBOK
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06-08-2013, 09:08 PM
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#108
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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06-08-2013, 09:09 PM
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#109
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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06-08-2013, 09:09 PM
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#110
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 880
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Told you he had pics!
__________________
Jack of all trades - Master of none
2012 F350 CC DRW - 6.7L PSD
2014 Sabre 36QBOK
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06-08-2013, 09:10 PM
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#111
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QCCowboy
Tubbs has some great pics. You will need to cut the power between between the incoming power and the converter/power panel. Why? It is always there, you won't forget it, it won't get wet and potentially fault, and if you get the optional remote display you can read all of the information about the electrical system from inside the camper. Oh, it won't "get legs" either.
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Lol tubbs!
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06-08-2013, 09:10 PM
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#112
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Why hard-wired and why is it better is twofold-
1) it's always there. You don't have to plug it in each time that you get setup nor take it down when you break down.
2) it can't grow legs and get stolen when it's hanging from the campground's power box. I don't know if this legitimately happens, but the possibility is there.
However, if you're not comfortable cutting your power cable inside the camper, then the portable is likely the right product for you. You shouldn't tackle a major electrical project unless you have someone knowledgable to help OR pay the dealer to do it.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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06-09-2013, 08:39 AM
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#113
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
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Whats that switch next to the display for?
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
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06-09-2013, 08:53 AM
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#114
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Whats that switch next to the display for?
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It's the "bypass". It allows you to tell the EMS to turn on the power to the RV even when it says it's not safe to do so. One would use this if the EMS is faulty and needs to be sent in for service or if you, in your infinite wisdom, have decided to accept the risk of a true fault (such as a generator without the needed bond between neutral and ground).
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06-09-2013, 08:54 AM
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#115
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10x
Whats that switch next to the display for?
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Ha ! Thats the secret turbo button!
Actually wfco converters are known at least in my experience to have cheap blow up any minute computer fans for cooling.
So I added a higher volume fan that I can turn on manually to keep things cool at my command.
Turbs
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06-09-2013, 08:56 AM
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#116
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706
It's the "bypass". It allows you to tell the EMS to turn on the power to the RV even when it says it's not safe to do so. One would use this if the EMS is faulty and needs to be sent in for service.
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No the rocker switch next to the ems panel is what I think he was referring to.
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06-09-2013, 09:20 AM
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#117
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
No the rocker switch next to the ems panel is what I think he was referring to.
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I never thought I'd see the day when you'd reveal the secret of the magic Turbo switch!
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06-09-2013, 09:44 AM
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#118
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706
I never thought I'd see the day when you'd reveal the secret of the magic Turbo switch!
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I've got turbo switches I've not even showed yet!
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06-09-2013, 12:01 PM
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#119
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: On Another Adventure
Posts: 2,563
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If your rig has a power transfer switch, then do as I did.... I purchased the Progressive 50amp hardwired unit and placed it between the power plug in my rig and the transfer switch.... No cutting of power cord required and no worry about someone ripping off my surge protector.... I have already seen it protect my rig 3 times... It's those older CG's and state parks that will get you.....
Personally, I'd NEVER plug into any CG without one. Stop and think - so PI's unit costs $300 or so bucks.. What's the cost (and hassle) of replacing everything in your rig that that unblocked surge zaps??? A friend of mine found out to the tune of around $8K....
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06-09-2013, 12:52 PM
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#120
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Between Pickles Gap and Toad Suck, AR
Posts: 6,070
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You guys have sold me on getting one. But I feel like a first grader in an Algebra class.
I don't know if I have a "transfer switch" or not. Guess it's time to go read the manual (though from what I've seen so far of it, I'm not impressed). If I have one, not sure where it is. I'd rather have the PI unit inside, but am NO electrician! And not sure why finding a transfer switch keeps me from cutting and wiring.....but I'm all ears.
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