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Old 07-08-2021, 02:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dobbs View Post
My personal proposed location for adding a 20, 30, and 50-amp receptacle is maybe 120' from my power panel in my house. What gauge/type of wire is recommended? Three or four conductor? I'm trying to get some idea what this would cast.
Thanks. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Appears to be 6 awg per this calculator:
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx

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Old 07-08-2021, 05:03 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by SpacecadetVA View Post
We have a utility building on its own meter and breaker box. We are going to have a plug installed so that we can plug the RV into it. The electrician said to have it be 220v but everything in the trailer says 120v. It will be a 30amp plug I just don’t know what he means by saying use 220v and everything I read said 220v will blow the electrical. We have a 2021 Salem 28VBXL and we are brand new to RVs.
To all, as far as I can tell, SpacecadetVA did not post any info about his box or receptacle. Others, like Guitar G, showed their box and receptacle.

1) SpacecadetVA, your 30 amp RV receptacle must be wired for 120 volts;
2) Unless you plan to add additional circuits via a sub-panel, you need only the 30 amp RV receptacle, a weatherproof box and cover ... and enough #10 or #8 awg wire (depending on distance) to go from the utility building's main panel to the receptacle.
3) 240 volts is NOT needed, under any circumstances that fit this situation, to supply power to this 120 volt circuit.
4) Allowing for the unknown from your question, YOU COULD install an RV subpanel that MIGHT require 240 volts. I have this subpanel installed at my home: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Note that it has a 50 amp, 240 volt outlet, a 30 amp 120 volt outlet, and a 20 amp 120 volt outlet...each on their own breakers in the panel. In this or any similar case, you might feed 240 volts to a sub-panel and breakout power, including 30 amps at 120 volts, from there. But that is massive overkill for supplying a 30 amp, 120 volt receptacle for RV use.
5) Any pro can have a momentary brain cramp. Assuming a simple 30 amp RV receptacle, your electrician's lack of experience with an RV is showing, and this professional had best bone up on how things are done, or you should get another electrician. He owes you an apology and confession of ignorance, and he owes you thanks for saving him from a very expensive mistake...which would be his professional responsibility. Had he gone forward as it appears he planned to, he would have ruined your RV's 120 volt power circuits...not to mention your camping season while you get it all fixed.

Observation: I'm stunned at the response of several to this confessed "newbie's" rather crucial question. Nobody needs to be kicked in the teeth for asking. It is helpful to point out "search" and that this is a common question AFTER ANSWERING, but someone new to the group, someone who confesses to being "...brand new to RVs", and someone who's alert enough to recognize that he may be getting bad advice from his electrician, shouldn't be scolded simply for asking.

Good luck with your wiring project and new RV, SpacecadetVA. Don't be put off from coming to the forum with other questions that will inevitably pop up.
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:45 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Capacitor View Post
I appears as though both receptacles are upside down.
Only to an inexperienced layman, our trade publications often suggest ground up mounting.
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:47 PM   #24
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Hopefully his little voice will go off in his head when he sees one brass colored screw, one nickel colored screw and one green screw on the receptacle and know it's not 240v
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:27 PM   #25
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Don't let that 220V guy near your wiring unless he gets some additional education - could be disastrous!!



Second opinion - OK, maybe I misjudged the man. After reading other comments, it seems that a 50 Amp RV plug and a dog bone would make sense and cover any future need, IF the present wiring circuits allow..
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:51 PM   #26
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40 years ago...

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Originally Posted by Mike134 View Post
Only to an inexperienced layman, our trade publications often suggest ground up mounting.
My late father-in-law (passed away around 40 years ago) was the electrician in a small town in Illinois all his life. He told me that the local inspector insisted that outlets be mounted ground pin up. The scenario he always mentioned was "What if a table were in front of the outlet and a piece of sheet metal slid off the back and down the wall? You wouldn't want it to land across the two blades."
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Old 07-08-2021, 08:26 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SpacecadetVA View Post
We have a utility building on its own meter and breaker box. We are going to have a plug installed so that we can plug the RV into it. The electrician said to have it be 220v but everything in the trailer says 120v. It will be a 30amp plug I just don’t know what he means by saying use 220v and everything I read said 220v will blow the electrical. We have a 2021 Salem 28VBXL and we are brand new to RVs.
Find a new electrician.
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Old 07-09-2021, 04:24 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Joe_GA View Post
Good idea, assuming the shed has the power available. I get excited about this subject because I hate to see newbies go through the disappointment and expense for such a simple issue.

If the electrician, after being told to install a 120 amp circuit, installs a 240 circuit is liable for any and all damage caused by his malpractice of his trade.

Tell him to watch that video and ask him if his liability insurance is up to date, because if he installs the 240 circuit he will wish it was up to date.
If you purchase a box like this, it has wiring diagram included for him to follow.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Connecti...13HR/100669968
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Old 07-09-2021, 07:37 AM   #29
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I replaced a regular 120 15 amp plug with a 30 receptacle in my barn just to run refrigerator to cool down it for trips, The three wires off the GFI worked great, 110 all the way no 220. If we need more power fire up geny!
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Old 07-09-2021, 08:03 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by adrienbaker View Post
A 50 amp service for an RV is wired up the same as a 220v service for a clothes dryer.

All that is required for a dryer is two hot legs and a ground. An RV 50 amp service is two hot legs, a neutral and a ground. An RV is wired to use each 120 volt leg separately with the neutral common to both.
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Old 07-09-2021, 08:31 AM   #31
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All that is required for a dryer is two hot legs and a ground. An RV 50 amp service is two hot legs, a neutral and a ground. An RV is wired to use each 120 volt leg separately with the neutral common to both.

Recent versions of the national electric code have changed that. We are no longer permitted to install a 3wire plug for a dryer where "back in the day" the ground wire carried the load from the lightbulb inside the dryer.
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Old 07-09-2021, 10:52 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Capacitor View Post
I appears as though both receptacles are upside down.
If you look at the 30 amp RV power cord, it is configured with ground pin "on top". The receptacle must be installed with ground pin on top so that the RV power cord plugged into hangs downward.
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:16 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by adrienbaker View Post
This sure got everybody excited. One option is to have the electrican install a 50 amp service and use a 50 amp to 30 amp "dog bone" for your current RV. The dog bone only uses one "hot leg" from the 50 amp service.

A 50 amp service for an RV is wired up the same as a 220v service for a clothes dryer. If you ever upgrade to a 50 amp RV, the RV will be wired to use the "hot legs" separately and never sees 220v.

Adrien
I had a 50 amp 220 VAC installed so I could charge my EV and use a 50 amp 220 VAC dongle (as shown) to 30 amp 120 VAC for my RV.
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:37 PM   #34
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I appears as though both receptacles are upside down.
They are correct. If you look at the 30 amp plug from the trailer, the ground in on top so the cord hangs down. As far as the 110v 20 amp receptacle, either way is acceptable. I prefer the ground up especially if a metal faceplate or cover is installed. If the cover/faceplate comes loose and fall onto the pins of the plug, it will hit the ground pin. Other way it will contact the hot and neutral pins. Arcing and possible fire.
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:44 PM   #35
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They are correct. If you look at the 30 amp plug from the trailer, the ground in on top so the cord hangs down. As far as the 110v 20 amp receptacle, either way is acceptable. I prefer the ground up especially if a metal faceplate or cover is installed. If the cover/faceplate comes loose and fall onto the pins of the plug, it will hit the ground pin. Other way it will contact the hot and neutral pins. Arcing and possible fire.
Personally...I have OCD. Therefore, 30 and 50 amp RV outlets - ground pin on top. Standard 15 and 20 amp outlets - ground pin on bottom. However, that being said....I stayed in a VRBO vacation apartment and, I swear to whatever higher power you believe in, all of the screws in the wall plates for all of the outlets and light switches had the screws in them with the slots exactly horizontal! Man....not even I am that much OCD!
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:45 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by SpacecadetVA View Post
We have a utility building on its own meter and breaker box. We are going to have a plug installed so that we can plug the RV into it. The electrician said to have it be 220v but everything in the trailer says 120v. It will be a 30amp plug I just don’t know what he means by saying use 220v and everything I read said 220v will blow the electrical. We have a 2021 Salem 28VBXL and we are brand new to RVs.
A 30 RV plug is NOT 220. It is 120v. One hot wire. A neutral and a ground. Her is the plug you want.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCQ9W6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KRP2BF3YVRXZC873WAMJ?_ encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here is how to do it. You will need a double 30 amp breaker and 10 gusher wire. Reed(or black), white and green, or 10-2 with ground. Just be sure to connect to Black wire to the line, white to neutral, and green to ground.

https://www.camperrules.com/how-to-wire-a-30-amp-rv-outlet#axzz70SBbP1Rp

You will also need a 50/30 pigtail since the trailer is 50 amp.
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:51 PM   #37
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I swear to whatever higher power you believe in, all of the screws in the wall plates for all of the outlets and light switches had the screws in them with the slots exactly horizontal! Man....not even I am that much OCD!
SOP for good UNION electricians.
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:57 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by frankraney View Post
A 30 RV plug is NOT 220. It is 120v. One hot wire. A neutral and a ground. Her is the plug you want.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCQ9W6X...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Here is how to do it. You will need a double 30 amp breaker and 10 gusher wire. Reed(or black), white and green, or 10-2 with ground. Just be sure to connect to Black wire to the line, white to neutral, and green to ground.

https://www.camperrules.com/how-to-w...#axzz70SBbP1Rp

You will also need a 50/30 pigtail since the trailer is 50 amp.
Ummm....no. Why would the trailer be 50 amp? The specs for the trailer shows a single 13.5K A/C unit. Why would there be 50 amp shore power to a trailer with a single 13.5K A/C? The 30 amp RV outlet is wired to a SINGLE 30 amp breaker, not a double (220v) circuit breaker. And no 50/30 pigtail (whatever that is) is required.
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:10 PM   #39
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Find a different electrician if he doesnt get the 50 A RV circuit.
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:12 PM   #40
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Find a different electrician if he doesnt get the 50 A RV circuit.
Except the subject is NOT a 50 amp RV circuit. It is a 30 AMP RV circuit!
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