Replacing Outlets Question

[IchLiebeBier]

All,
After seeing the thread about the burnt up 30amp Furrion marine plug, I started checking out all my outlets today. They are the regular RV self contained outlets (except the one GFCI).

I found one that had three sets of wires to it, and the top set came out pretty easily, and the metal splice tabs are bent. So, I'm planning on replacing all the outlets with residential outlets.

One of the outlets, in the kitchen, has a sticker on it that says "GFCI Protected Outlet". It does not have the test/reset buttons on it. Based on having to track down a power issue last year, I believe it is downstream of the GFCI outlet in the bathroom.

Can this be replaced with a standard residential outlet? Or is there a special outlet that I need to replace it?

Thanks.

[Hclarkx]

Good plan. I'm doing the same a few at a time (there are 14 in my 30' fifth wheel).

The kitchen outlet that has the label can be upgraded to a residential type box and receptacle. The label is there by code because the outlet is within a certain distance of a ground (the sink hardware). There may be other outlets on this circuit (between the labeled one and the GFCI one or downstream). All can be upgraded.

Because the one you are concerned with has three romex's hitting it. You will want a deep enough box to allow the three romex's to be tied together with a pigtail running to the receptacle (since receptacles can accommodate only two romex's).

"Romex" is like "kleenex" ..... an old industry term gleaned from an early manufacturer of a pair of insulated wires in an insulated jacket (with a bare ground wire as well since well into last century).

[TacomaJoe]

There is nothing special about the outlets downstream from the GFCI. It is nice to know which downstream outlets are tied to each GFCI for troubleshooting.

I will caution you that residential outlets aren't good in an RV because they are intended to be mounted in an electrical box.

[IchLiebeBier]

They'll be put into boxes. I ordered the low profiles for the ones that need it. There are 3 that should work with regular remodeling boxes.

I also plan to use pigtails for the one with three.

Thanks for the replies, all.

[IchLiebeBier]

All,
Just to follow up, here's the way I did mine. Please let me know if anyone sees any issues with what I've done. There was one 20 amp outlet for the fireplace that I did the same way (with a new 20 amp outlet).

For outlets with one romex going to it, I connected straight to the outlets. For those with two or three, I used the 4 port connectors to do pigtails. The connectors are inside the box (unlike in the picture).

I wrapped the pigtails with tape, but I did not wrap the outlets with tape, since I used the plastic boxes. I was debating putting the armourband wraps around them, but I figured they'd dry rot pretty quickly anyway.

I used the screws to connect the wires. I did not use the rear fast connects. And I tried to ensure that the ground wire was nowhere near the hot or neutral connects (which makes me wonder why they don't just insulate the ground wire like the other two).

BTW, don't pull out your fridge without checking for a false wall behind the closest cabinet. Ask me how I know that now.

Thanks for any feedback.

[Hclarkx]

Looks & sounds good to me.

[2WheelJon]

Nice job. Remember that unlike the wiring in your house the wiring in your RV gets bounced around a lot. So having tight electrical connections (screw terminals on outlets and NOT push-in connections) is the way to go. Also, all outlets downstream of the GFCI will be protected by it provided they are wired to the “load” side of that outlet. Well done.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier

I used the screws to connect the wires. I did not use the rear fast connects. And I tried to ensure that the ground wire was nowhere near the hot or neutral connects (which makes me wonder why they don't just insulate the ground wire like the other two).

Your comment on the bare ground is why I always put a wrap of electrical tape around the outlets and switches covering the connects. I think I saw that recommended on one of those DIY TV shows years ago...

[IchLiebeBier]

Thanks all.

[glen1971]

When you used the screws, did you wrap the wire around the screw clockwise, then tighten the screws?
FWIW, I've never taped the screws on any switch or receptacle I've done.

[IchLiebeBier]

Originally Posted by glen1971

When you used the screws, did you wrap the wire around the screw clockwise, then tighten the screws?
FWIW, I've never taped the screws on any switch or receptacle I've done.

Yep

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

Your comment on the bare ground is why I always put a wrap of electrical tape around the outlets and switches covering the connects. I think I saw that recommended on one of those DIY TV shows years ago...

Just think of the hundreds of millions of outlets installed out there bare - with no tape wrap.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Just think of the hundreds of millions of outlets installed out there bare - with no tape wrap.

Yup, mostly by pro's who did the wiring when there was no power present. I'm an amateur! Additionally, I've found that whoever wired my house was somehow able to get hot leads coming into boxes that were from multiple breakers (ask me how I figured that out...). So I'm overly cautious.

In any case, I think I first saw the idea on one of those DIY tv shows. My uncle who was a licensed electrician didn't complain when he inspected some of my work.

[Cruzrtwdgt]

Originally Posted by glen1971

When you used the screws, did you wrap the wire around the screw clockwise, then tighten the screws?
FWIW, I've never taped the screws on any switch or receptacle I've done.

It's personal preference. I tape every wire nut and wrap every outlet, especially if it's a bare copper ground or a metal box. I've been doing industrial electrical for 40 years. You don't even want talk about what I do with motor connections on 350 hp electric motors Vibration sucks.

[wls]

Originally Posted by Cruzrtwdgt

It's personal preference. I tape every wire nut and wrap every outlet, especially if it's a bare copper ground or a metal box. I've been doing industrial electrical for 40 years. You don't even want talk about what I do with motor connections on 350 hp electric motors Vibration sucks.

me too