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Old 04-01-2013, 03:10 PM   #1
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Question Replacing Tow Connector (?) Cable

Greetings,

Last fall, on my last trip, I didn't properly suspend my connector cable and scraped through the covering and some of the wires. I am talking about the 7 pin connector that links the tow vehicle to the trailer (lights, signals, brakes, etc). It is wired directly to the camper and plugs into the tow vehicle.

I want to order a new one and am not sure about how much of a job replacing it is. If I wanted to get it done, who/what kind of repair person is going to be my safest bet? The nearest RV dealer is more than an hour away.
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:43 PM   #2
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I've never done one but it wouldn't stop me. If you're confident around hand tools go for it. It can't be rocket science.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
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I did not attach mine correctly on NE trip several years ago. I had to rewire the connector to the pin and wire coming out of the TT. After having it done by the "PROS" and then having to redo it, I ordered the exact wire and had a friend put it on correctly. No further problems. If you do not do it right then you can expect problems down the road. The exact cable is the bst way to go and is easy to replace as long as its not inside a covered under belly. Videos are on the net on how to's

Took several hours at sundown to rewire cable. A pro can do it in an hour.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:25 PM   #4
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The cable coming from your camper can be replace easily.

Go to any parts store and order the length you need plus a little extra just incase and the plastic 7 way plug.
The trailer end will be tied together inside a metal household wiring box .
Replace wires one at a time in the junction box .

If your plug in end is all molded together then this will help.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ram-17438.html


good luck and remember were always here to help.

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Old 04-01-2013, 09:41 PM   #5
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I replaced mine last year. Got mine at camping world. Easy to replace. You should have a junction box under the camper. Detach the wires and splice the new one. The wires should be color coded to match up. I pinched mine between the tongue of the camper and my bumper when I was backing into my site.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:02 PM   #6
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Good idea to disconnect trailer battery before starting that job just to be safe and not short out your battery.
X2 on wires being color coded.
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Old 11-01-2014, 03:46 AM   #7
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To tag onto Comish4life's post. I have a travel trailer and at some point, backing in the trailer I pinched the 7 pin trailer cable and nearly cut through the entire wire harness. The cut is near the middle of the cable and there is enough slack to splice together the 7 pin connector. What are your thoughts regarding splicing the cable together vs. replacing the entire 7 pin cable? Any splicing or cable replacing tips would be very helpful.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakka323 View Post
To tag onto Comish4life's post. I have a travel trailer and at some point, backing in the trailer I pinched the 7 pin trailer cable and nearly cut through the entire wire harness. The cut is near the middle of the cable and there is enough slack to splice together the 7 pin connector. What are your thoughts regarding splicing the cable together vs. replacing the entire 7 pin cable? Any splicing or cable replacing tips would be very helpful.
I like waterproof butt connectors of the correct size for splicing wire. You will have a considerable thickness bulge if the splices are aligned together. I also do not hesitate to use additional heat shrink adjacent to the connectors to strengthen the wire. I judiciously use a paint stripping heat gun for shrinking the heat shrink (hair dryers also work pretty well) without melting wire insulation.

just my experiences
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:29 PM   #9
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If splicing a length cut all wired different lengths to avoid the spice budge. you can then use self vulcanizing rubber tape to cover the connections. This will bond and keep the water out.

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Then cover the rubber tape with Vinyl electrical tape after .


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I like 3M tapes. To start the vinyl tape start a 1/4 in and the wrap over the end and all the way and back up keeping tight pressure.

I if was doing it i would solder the wires use water proof heat shrink (has glue inside it) then wrap with vinyl tape. Need at least 250 watts (or more) on an American Beauty solder iron and good Kester solder.

Brian
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #10
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Thanks Fred and Brian for the great advice! I'll keep you posted on how it goes...
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:13 PM   #11
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Did it split the wire in two or just scrape the insulation off? If it just scraped the insulation off get some heat shrink take and unhook each wire one at a time put the heat shrink on heat it then reconnect that wire. Then continue with the rest and you should be good. Check and see if the lights work as you go. If everything works then wrap the entire group with electrical tape sealing it completely.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:23 PM   #12
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Hi,
Why even bother fixing the old, damaged one when you can replace it for $18.00?
By the time you buy all the tapes, shrink wrap ect... you can buy a new wire.
just my 2 cents.
Here is a link to a new pigtail.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:31 PM   #13
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Had no Idea they were that cheap the plug end usually costs more than that.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:39 PM   #14
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Still going to need the butt connectors and shrink tube to hook in the new cable but it is the way I would go.
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark0224 View Post
Had no Idea they were that cheap the plug end usually costs more than that.
Hi,
I did not think the pigtails were that cheap either to tell the truth. The link provided was for a 3' piece. The 8' pigtail is under $50.
One of the post above stated 3 hour install? That would be 25 minutes per wire?
I would count on the professional time frame for under 1 hour max on the switch out. My guess would be he spent 35 minutes and billed the full hour.
Should take less time to switch out than the repair.
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