Rockwood 2706ws wiring diagram and inverter install

[lennyk325]

Thank you for checking it out. For some reason i cant see much but the arrows on my ipad. Im going to try it on a laptop in a bit...

[lennyk325]

I was able to open up the PDF and comparing the two, I don't think I was far off because the inverter im getting has the AC relay built in . if I swap what box I have going into the inverter with the box coming out of the inverter ...im almost there. revision to come and again thank you all for all your support.

[lennyk325]

here is a revision of what I'm trying to do:

RV inverter 1.pdf

[GeeDubb]

Originally Posted by lennyk325

here is a revision of what I'm trying to do:

Attachment 161334

Looks good. If you have a gas/electric water heater you may want to put a breaker on the 120 VAC input to it like you did with the A/C. If your water heater is like mine, I had to go to the drivers side of the trailer to turn off the electric switch so I added a breaker inside. The WH is hard on batteries.....

Gary

[Mad Cow]

One thing I learned from the videos I linked to.... just wire the inverter/charger AC output to the receptacle breaker if one is going with maybe 1000w inverter/charger, or maybe both appliance breaker (micro, WH, etc) and receptacle breaker if using something like a 2000w inverter/charger. Disconnect those breakers from the main breaker. The inverter/charger will pass thru shore power to those when hooked up to shore power, and will supply those from battery(s) when not on shore power. Then just hook AC input to the inverter/charger to the main breaker that supplies everything so batteries will charge up via that when on shore power.

Leave air conditioner hooked up to main breaker so that it only operates when on shore power.

Relatively simple. Doesn't affect 12v systems at all. Just disconnect the factory converter . No need for it when using a far superior inverter/charger like a Xantrex. This is why going with a full blown inverter/charger is much better than just an inverter.

Next goal is to really lighten my wallet and install two Greenlife lithium Ion batteries in place of LA batteries. More than enough to meet power needs while on inverter and can run them to 0% with no damage. Minimum 2000-3000 cycles. But they are expensive, at least initially. Seems that they balance out on cost over lifetime use. But you get a full 13.7 amps of battery right down to 0% with them.

[lennyk325]

Thank you mad cow! First off ...holy smoke the batts you want are crazy expensive!!!!! Im going to try 4. trojan t145 6V deep cycle golf cart batts in parallel and series and get 520 Ah with the xantrex freedom hfs 2022. Ok i think i have reached the final draft of this design. Finny thing is with all this research and all your help, i wound up downloading the install doc for the inverter and it showed the same design as what is attached to this post lol lol but i know know a ton of info about my RV and how the electric is done. Im on the fence about moving the outdoor kitchen on the inverter or not. Next i need to figure out what i can use and how long i can use my electronics on 520Ah.

[Mad Cow]

Yeah, I will be the first to admit the LiO battery price can cause one to pause breathing. But when all things are factored in, they actually can be a better deal. They are only 30 lb each, they can be mounted anywhere, at any angle, even upside down. No user maintenance of any kind, and they have their own built in battery charging control and algorithm.

It is common, under the worse of conditions, to get 2000-3000 full cycles out of one of these. No deep cycle can come close to that even when used and treated perfectly under the most ideal of conditions. In those perfect scenario situations, even the LiO batteries will go upwards of 4000-5000 full cycles before starting to die off.

In theory, one could mount a couple of these in parallel on a trailer, giving more effective amp hr delivery than 4 deep cycle 12v batteries in parallel. And that same assertion can be said when comparing 4 6v batteries... pairs in series and series pairs combined in parallel. And the LiO batteries would be well within their life cycle and could transfer to the next trailer one might buy 5-6 years down the road.

Think of it as a energy investment. And one can only really use a normal deep cycle battery down to 50% before risk of damage starts. They need charged at that point. And voltage output from them drops as they are depleted. that is how the meter determines charge life left. LiO batteries can be taken all the way to the bottom without risk of damage, and they offer full voltage right on down to where they conk out. On the meter, a LiO battery will show 100% charged right on down to where they totally shut down because there is no degradation of voltage as they are used.

[lennyk325]

I might be able to swing a 100ah one but now i have to see if that will get me through the night...

[Mad Cow]

Lenny, the great thing is, you can have the unit only hooked up to what you want to supply inverted power to. For my particular desires, that is all outlets and microwave. And if I had one, the fridge of the outside kitchen, as those college dorm type of fridges don't suck up a lot of power, and when you don't need it, shut it off! Anything that can run on propane along with AC stays on the shore power circuit and doesn't get the benefit of the inverter/charger.

For those that just want outlets on the inverter, cool. One can set the system up to whatever fits their pistol. If they change their mind later, all the heavy work is already done. All that is needed for future modifications is a few wire swaps on breakers.

If I can possibly muddy the waters further.... it is pretty lame to have a fridge in the outside kitchen be a 120v unit. I use great full blown refrigerator / freezer units that are of the college dorm size in my commercial trucks, not the thermelectric type of goofy units at Wally World or wherever that plugs into a cigarette lighter. These are true refrigerator/freezer units mounted in cabinets in the cab sleeper and hard wired to the system. They are 12v units. They go for days with the trucks shut off before seriously depleting batteries. And those are not deep cycle type batteries either. These fridges have been running for several years, 24/7, while being bounced around in trucks for over 800,000 miles. If I get a TT with a outside fridge, I will yank it out and replace it with one of the type I use in commercial trucks.

[Abendage]

Neat thread, I'm doing similar upgrades to my 2509S.

This is the 3rd camper I've done solar/inverter setups on and I've had pretty good luck with budget minded components.

My set up is:

4-GC-2 6V from Costco, I believe 464ah
4 - 100watt flexible panels wired in series/parallel (24v nominal)
Victron Smartsolar MPPT 150/35 charge controller
Victron BMV-700 battery monitor
PowerTechOn 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter
Manual transfer switch using a C3 controls 6 pole dpdt switch as outlined in this thread: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-18389.html

I boondock 95% of the time, and the solar will take care of the charging, so I'm not worried about getting an inverter/charger, so I just went with an inexpensive pure sine wave inverter that got decent reviews.

I like the manual transfer switch because it removes the A/C, water heater, converter and 120v side of the fridge out of the loop when on inverter with no need to flip breakers or install a sub panel. I plug in to shore power so rarely, it won't bother me to have to manually flip a switch to do so. I'll leave it in inverter mode 95% of the time.

I really like the look of those lithium ion batteries, but at this time, they are way out of my price range. With all of the components listed above I'm well under $2,000 even with all the wiring. They say by 2025 battery prices should cut in half though, so maybe they will be in my future! Would sure like that, as right now I'm carrying around more than 200lbs of batteries!

I have the batteries and the BMV-700 installed, all the other parts are either in or on the way, so once we get some nice weather and some time on the weekends I'll get to installing everything!

[lennyk325]

Originally Posted by GeeDubb

Looks good. If you have a gas/electric water heater you may want to put a breaker on the 120 VAC input to it like you did with the A/C. If your water heater is like mine, I had to go to the drivers side of the trailer to turn off the electric switch so I added a breaker inside. The WH is hard on batteries.....



Gary

Ok that a great idea, thank you I’ll add it in the drawing. Thank you so much