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Old 09-11-2014, 03:18 PM   #41
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Yep. Issue was complicated by the pigtail being 30 amp stranded and the mating wire being 30 amp bare solid copper.

The wire nut "took" the stranded and pushed the solid back. Seemed to be fine for over 2 years till vibration pushed the solid out of touch with the stranded (I think).

First indication I had a problem was "hot skin" and GFCI's not testing.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:54 PM   #42
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Yep. Issue was complicated by the pigtail being 30 amp stranded and the mating wire being 30 amp bare solid copper.

The wire nut "took" the stranded and pushed the solid back. Seemed to be fine for over 2 years till vibration pushed the solid out of touch with the stranded (I think).

First indication I had a problem was "hot skin" and GFCI's not testing.
Well now you know that even old dogs can learn new tricks.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:13 PM   #43
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Finally: SOLVED

Going Camping!

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Old 09-15-2014, 05:22 PM   #44
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That's great, Lou.
You know Mike personally? He's a great guy. Please tell him Baron from Korea said hello next time you see him.
Have a great time on your next trip!
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:49 PM   #45
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Good news the fault was found Herk.

Alternately use Marr connectors instead of Marrette Connectors. Having a multi-trade father millwright/mechanic/electrician working in a Tire Plant they always used Marr connectors with a mechanical connection. In my life working on TV transmitters and blower motors we also used the mechanical advantage of a screw connection, Especially when stranded/solid conductors. The General/Bendix trailer plant in Hensell Ontario always used Marr connectors on all Trailer wiring harnesses and AC connections.
In all the work I have done I have never taped a Marr or Marrette. I have tinned stranded wire often with solid and used a Marr connectore at home on light fixtures.

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Old 09-16-2014, 05:52 AM   #46
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Alternately use Marr connectors instead of Marrette Connectors.
I think I need to track those down. Need them for my electrical kit.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:57 AM   #47
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Seems these are also made by Marrette.

http://tnblnx3.tnb.com/emAlbum/album...alog4thru7.pdf

Couple boxes of 100 are headed to the garage.
Many thanks, Brian!
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:55 AM   #48
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I researched Marr Connectors on Amazon. I got a mop head. Oh it'll be fine. :P
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:40 PM   #49
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I get shocked only while plugged into my garage on a concrete floor. This started after I installed a bulldog electric tounge jack. Could that have made a connection?
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:24 PM   #50
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I get shocked only while plugged into my garage on a concrete floor. This started after I installed a bulldog electric tounge jack. Could that have made a connection?
If you have an open ground in your garage, it could cause this problem. Your camper is finding an easier ground through you than through your home circuit.

Have an electrician check the grounds in your garage.
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:35 PM   #51
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It did not do this before though
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:18 PM   #52
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It takes 2 failures to get a "hot frame"

If there is only a short to the frame (say the hot wire on your jack is touching the frame; AND the frame is properly safety grounded) it will blow the fuse or trip the breaker.

If there is only an open ground, nothing will happen at all and you would never know unless you tested it by using an ohm meter from the frame to a good earth ground (like a wet spot in the dirt) or with a GFCI outlet tester (when button pressed it switches from "GOOD" to "OPEN GROUND" and the GFCI does not switch off).

It IS possible that you could still have a high impedance connection through one of your induction motors - AC fan or compressor - and get enough for a "tickle" in this case; however the open ground is still a requirement.

So, a bad safety ground AND a short to safety ground (frame) is needed for the frame to be at a higher voltage than the dirt (concrete).
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