Shore power not working

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Short answer for what Larry said, (I think) take the Black wire and put it on the positive side.

Les, that's not quite it. (And the forum sent out the original of this, before you corrected it which was worse.)

Here's briefly what I said:

There are two PAIRs of wires coming to the battery, a thick pair and a thin pair.
One pair conforms to the black-, red+ standard. (thick)
The other pair conforms to the white-, black+ standard. (thin)

It looks like I have paired the right wires since two of them (one pair) are thick and disappear into the same loom, and the other two (second pair) are thinner.

(In other words, they are correct as illustrated.)

Maybe the next step is to:

• Disconnect all wires again
• Make sure the battery is charged
• Connect only one pair and see what works
• Disconnect that pair
• Connect only the other pair and see what works

The winch is the real weak link in these units. It draws a lot of current and they have a reputation of jamming. I have sent a private message to Fred (user PGANDW) to see if he can lend any insight since he is familiar with these.

It shouldn't hurt to move the black wire. Connecting both wires of a circuit to the same terminal is equivalent to disconnecting both. No current will flow in either case.

[Larry-NC]

Michele, here is another approach to the problem.

I looked in the Registry for other owners of a Flagstaff mac 228. Here are some owners:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-118986.html

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-197478.html

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ac-156555.html

You could send a private message to all of them, asking them to post a photo of their batteries to the "Shore power not working" thread.

[michelec]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Les, that's not quite it. (And the forum sent out the original of this, before you corrected it which was worse.)

Here's briefly what I said:

There are two PAIRs of wires coming to the battery, a thick pair and a thin pair.
One pair conforms to the black-, red+ standard. (thick)
The other pair conforms to the white-, black+ standard. (thin)

It looks like I have paired the right wires since two of them (one pair) are thick and disappear into the same loom, and the other two (second pair) are thinner.

(In other words, they are correct as illustrated.)

Maybe the next step is to:

• Disconnect all wires again
• Make sure the battery is charged
• Connect only one pair and see what works
• Disconnect that pair
• Connect only the other pair and see what works

The winch is the real weak link in these units. It draws a lot of current and they have a reputation of jamming. I have sent a private message to Fred (user PGANDW) to see if he can lend any insight since he is familiar with these.

It shouldn't hurt to move the black wire. Connecting both wires of a circuit to the same terminal is equivalent to disconnecting both. No current will flow in either case.

Thanks so much Larry. I do have a volt meter now so if someone tells me how to use it I can check the wires. And to your previous question about the winch- there’s been no problems with it in the past. See picture for the one I purchased.

[Brother Les]

just a suggestion. remove the black wire from negative battery post and leave unhooked for the night.


Call it a day and relax.


that is a good volt meter for you to use.








Come to think of it. With the 'shore power' working, it should be possible for you to disconnect all of the wires from the battery as the 'Convertor' will run all of your 12volt system..... EXCEPT THE WINCH, which draws way to much amps that the convertor will not be able to keep up with. You have a picture on where you started with the battery on this thread.


My Daughter has a 1993 popup (Starcraft?) and they have not had a battery on it for years. They use the Fridge on propane and the 12volt lights by plugging in shore (110v) power and the convertor changes that to 12v battery for their lights.

[michelec]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

just a suggestion. remove the black wire from negative battery post and leave unhooked for the night.


Call it a day and relax.


that is a good volt meter for you to use.








Come to think of it. With the 'shore power' working, it should be possible for you to disconnect all of the wires from the battery as the 'Convertor' will run all of your 12volt system..... EXCEPT THE WINCH, which draws way to much amps that the convertor will not be able to keep up with. You have a picture on where you started with the battery on this thread.


My Daughter has a 1993 popup (Starcraft?) and they have not had a battery on it for years. They use the Fridge on propane and the 12volt lights by plugging in shore (110v) power and the convertor changes that to 12v battery for their lights.

I did relax. My phone died I’ll start again tomorrow. We only have one more trip planned this summer and I love learning more as I go. Side note: I turned on my outside trailer light by the door as it was getting dark. After about an hour I was going to bed snd turned it off. It was REALLY hot. Yikes?
Goodnight!

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by michelec

I did relax. My phone died I’ll start again tomorrow. We only have one more trip planned this summer and I love learning more as I go. Side note: I turned on my outside trailer light by the door as it was getting dark. After about an hour I was going to bed snd turned it off. It was REALLY hot. Yikes?
Goodnight!

I'll try to help some as a pop-up and A-frame owner.

1. Your light bulb in the outside light getting hot may be quite normal. Incandescent bulbs generally get pretty hot in use - especially some 12V bulbs which this is. The only way for the bulb to get extra power for extra heat would be if your converter is putting out too high voltage AND you are on shore power.

1a. If the outside light is already an LED (not a regular light bulb), the excessive heat is a good indication your battery is hooked up wrong. LEDs are polarity sensitive, but usually you let the magic smoke out when they are fed the wrong polarity.

1b. Assuming an incandescent bulb, when you get a chance - not urgent - replace your interior and exterior incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Your battery will last much longer. LED bulb replacements are available at auto parts stores and Walmart (very expensive for more than one) or Amazon (cheap in batches). On Amazon, you have to know the correct bulb socket and how big an LED bulb will fit in the fixture. Most LED bulbs are very bright compared to the incandescent they replace - so you generally don't want "super brite" LEDs.

2. Chances are your roof lift winch issues are NOT battery related. If the battery was the cause of the winch motor problems, you would hear the motor SLOWLY grind to a halt instead of quitting mid-stroke. My guess is the limit switches or cable itself are out of order, but I'm not an expert. Nearly all Forest River pop-ups (tent trailers, A-frames, truck campers) have lift motor issues sooner or later. My pop-up days had manual crank up roofs. My current A-frame has lift motor issues.

2a. Because the lift motor issue is specific to pop-ups, I recommend this thread be moved to the pop-up sub-forum where the OP can get help with this issue.

3. The others have advised you well on how to sort out your battery connection issues. Downstream a voltmeter will help you check the status of your battery and your converter.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[Aladin Sane]

I would wager that the black wire on the negative terminal of the battery in the picture should actually be on the positive terminal. I would try to trace it first, but the black and white on the same terminal seems very wrong.

[Chuck_S]

+1.

I'm an expert since I've owned two (2) camping trailers.

Both of them had one (1) heavy White wire, and one (1) wire only, attached to the Negative battery post and that wire lead to the trailer frame. No other wires to the Negative post.

White and Black to the same terminal is not in any electrical standards I've seen.

-- Chuck

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by michelec

Thanks so much Larry. I do have a volt meter now so if someone tells me how to use it I can check the wires. And to your previous question about the winch- there’s been no problems with it in the past. See picture for the one I purchased.

Thanks for the picture. Multimeters like that have a LOT of capabilities. We are going to cover just a couple right now.
Measuring DC voltage
The meter has scales for measuring AC and DC voltages. You set a scale that's higher than the voltage you expect to measure. For example, the battery voltage is around 12 volts DC, so you would turn the knob to 20v. You might read 12.6, for example. (You could set 200, but the reading would be 12--you lose the third digit of resolution and couldn't tell whether the battery was fully charged or mostly discharged.)

Note to critics: The Mastercraft 052-0055-6 has a different user interface than the Harbor Freight unit most of us have. Don't complain if this meter is different than yours.

So, how to test the battery charge?

• Unplug from shore power so you aren't deceived by charging voltage from the converter.
• Rotate the meter knob to 20v. That's the upper left, about the 10 o'clock position.
• Since you know the battery is DC, you will press the AC/DC button to select DC. It's OUT for DC, in for AC. Repeated presses alternate between these two selections.
• Plug the red probe into ΩVmA°F jack at the bottom right.
• Plug the black probe into the COM (stands for Common) jack at the bottom middle.
• Turn the meter on. (If you're in the dark, the meter has a backlight function.)
• Hold the red probe on the Positive (+) battery terminal and the black probe on the Negative (-) terminal. The meter should read around 12 volts.

Here are two more experiments as learning exercises:
Reverse the two probes: red on -, black on +. The digits will be the same, but they will be preceded by a "-" sign. This is how you could tell which terminal is which if a battery wasn't labelled. Also, it demonstrates that you don't really have to pay attention to which probe is which if you are just testing for voltage presence--just ignore the sign.
Now plug into shore power so the converter (battery charger goes on), and re-measure the battery voltage. Depending on the state of charge, you could see 13.2 volts, or even 14 volts. This is a way to check that the converter is working and shore power is present.

Measuring AC voltage
Maybe you need to check to see if an outlet has power--could be one inside the trailer or an outlet at the house. The voltage is usually around 120 volts AC.
Set the voltage range (V) to 200 to accommodate the expected 120 volts.
Leads stay the same, red in ΩVmA°F and black in COM.
Push the AC/DC button IN for AC
Meter turned on
Plug one probe into each of the flat blade sockets in the receptacle. BE SURE TO KEEP YOUR FINGERS ON THE PLASTIC PART OF THE PROBES. Don't let your fingertips drift onto the metal tips or you will get a surprise.
You should read around 120 VAC.
There is no sign (polarity) associated with AC, so swapping the probes will give an identical result.

Measuring continuity
"Continuity" means that a circuit is continuous--current can flow through it. You can use this function to tell if a fuse is blown or not, if you're not sure. You can also use it to check switches and incandescent lamps for the same purpose.

• Leads stay the same, red in ΩVmA°F and black in COM.
• Turn the switch to the speaker icon ))) at about 4 o'clock.
• Turn the meter on.
• With the probes apart you will hear no beep.
• Touch the probes together and you will hear a beep.
• You can do the following or just visualize it:
• Touch the probes to the blades of a good fuse and hear a beep.
• Touch the probes to the blades of a blown fuse and hear no beep.
• (Always have the fuse removed to do this. Never test a fuse in place.)
• Touch one probe to the shell of a good incandescent lamp and the other to the center contact and hear a beep. No beep on a burned-out lamp.

That's enough meter lessons for today.

Let me know how you are coming with the proposed connection test where you first try one pair only, then the other pair only.

[michelec]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Thanks for the picture. Multimeters like that have a LOT of capabilities. We are going to cover just a couple right now.
Measuring DC voltage
The meter has scales for measuring AC and DC voltages. You set a scale that's higher than the voltage you expect to measure. For example, the battery voltage is around 12 volts DC, so you would turn the knob to 20v. You might read 12.6, for example. (You could set 200, but the reading would be 12--you lose the third digit of resolution and couldn't tell whether the battery was fully charged or mostly discharged.)

Note to critics: The Mastercraft 052-0055-6 has a different user interface than the Harbor Freight unit most of us have. Don't complain if this meter is different than yours.

So, how to test the battery charge?

• Unplug from shore power so you aren't deceived by charging voltage from the converter.
• Rotate the meter knob to 20v. That's the upper left, about the 10 o'clock position.
• Since you know the battery is DC, you will press the AC/DC button to select DC. It's OUT for DC, in for AC. Repeated presses alternate between these two selections.
• Plug the red probe into ΩVmA°F jack at the bottom right.
• Plug the black probe into the COM (stands for Common) jack at the bottom middle.
• Turn the meter on. (If you're in the dark, the meter has a backlight function.)
• Hold the red probe on the Positive (+) battery terminal and the black probe on the Negative (-) terminal. The meter should read around 12 volts.

Here are two more experiments as learning exercises:
Reverse the two probes: red on -, black on +. The digits will be the same, but they will be preceded by a "-" sign. This is how you could tell which terminal is which if a battery wasn't labelled. Also, it demonstrates that you don't really have to pay attention to which probe is which if you are just testing for voltage presence--just ignore the sign.
Now plug into shore power so the converter (battery charger goes on), and re-measure the battery voltage. Depending on the state of charge, you could see 13.2 volts, or even 14 volts. This is a way to check that the converter is working and shore power is present.

Measuring AC voltage
Maybe you need to check to see if an outlet has power--could be one inside the trailer or an outlet at the house. The voltage is usually around 120 volts AC.
Set the voltage range (V) to 200 to accommodate the expected 120 volts.
Leads stay the same, red in ΩVmA°F and black in COM.
Push the AC/DC button IN for AC
Meter turned on
Plug one probe into each of the flat blade sockets in the receptacle. BE SURE TO KEEP YOUR FINGERS ON THE PLASTIC PART OF THE PROBES. Don't let your fingertips drift onto the metal tips or you will get a surprise.
You should read around 120 VAC.
There is no sign (polarity) associated with AC, so swapping the probes will give an identical result.

Measuring continuity
"Continuity" means that a circuit is continuous--current can flow through it. You can use this function to tell if a fuse is blown or not, if you're not sure. You can also use it to check switches and incandescent lamps for the same purpose.

• Leads stay the same, red in ΩVmA°F and black in COM.
• Turn the switch to the speaker icon ))) at about 4 o'clock.
• Turn the meter on.
• With the probes apart you will hear no beep.
• Touch the probes together and you will hear a beep.
• You can do the following or just visualize it:
• Touch the probes to the blades of a good fuse and hear a beep.
• Touch the probes to the blades of a blown fuse and hear no beep.
• (Always have the fuse removed to do this. Never test a fuse in place.)
• Touch one probe to the shell of a good incandescent lamp and the other to the center contact and hear a beep. No beep on a burned-out lamp.

That's enough meter lessons for today.

Let me know how you are coming with the proposed connection test where you first try one pair only, then the other pair only.

Thank you to everyone on here so VERY much. I face times with my dad this morning on top of all this amazing advice. My battery and shore power are all working!
As far as my automatic winch dor the roof goes, he agrees there could be a multitude of issues. I PRAY the roof goes down tomorrow and we survive one more last trip this season. My plan will be then to schedule an appointment with an rv mechanic to do some maintenance on the winch system and see what’s happening there. Even if I got more advice on this, it’s really out of my comfort zone to go troubleshooting around in there. Thank you again!!

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by michelec

Thank you to everyone on here so VERY much. I face times with my dad this morning on top of all this amazing advice. My battery and shore power are all working!
As far as my automatic winch dor the roof goes, he agrees there could be a multitude of issues. I PRAY the roof goes down tomorrow and we survive one more last trip this season. My plan will be then to schedule an appointment with an rv mechanic to do some maintenance on the winch system and see what’s happening there. Even if I got more advice on this, it’s really out of my comfort zone to go troubleshooting around in there. Thank you again!!

I would suggest to just try and use the 'manual' crank, until you get it home. It may be a very easy adjustment. If you need any help/suggestions, we are here. Also, let us know what you find out what may or may not be going on with the winch. This is how we are able to give suggestions, because of Life's true experiences and adversities.



Safe travels and when you think that you are running behind and want to hurry up..... The best option is to really slow down and remain calm and enjoy the day. It is always better to be 'late', than have 'issues' because you sped up and something happened, and now you are not even More late, but there is a possibility of not making it to your destination at all.

[Chuck_S]

Thank you to everyone on here so VERY much. I face times with my dad this morning on top of all this amazing advice. My battery and shore power are all working!

After over 50 posts you're not going to tell us what was wrong!?

-- Chuck

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

After over 50 posts you're not going to tell us what was wrong!?

-- Chuck

Chuck, it appears that the wiring was correct and the battery was discharged. No shore power--could have been pedestal breaker or trailer breaker or something. (I don't think any of us mentioned to Michele that you can't push a tripped breaker lever to ON. You have to push it to OFF, then to ON. Maybe she stumbled onto that and didn't even realize it.)

My first thought--and probably some others--was that if the winch was working opposite to the switch, that polarity to the motor HAD to be backwards. But after a while, I wondered if in lowering the roof, the cable spool went beyond the limit and completely unwound the cable, then continued to run and wound the cable onto the spool in the reverse direction. This would have the same external effect: pushing "Down" would raise the roof and pushing "Up" would lower it. I'd gamble a six-pack that's what happened. Maybe when the RV repair guy looks at the winch Michele will tell us.

[Chuck_S]

Dead battery.

Unless you have a battery cutoff switch the battery can go dead from parasitic draws like the LP detector and radio memory (if you have them) in as little as two weeks -- probably more line a month for a popup -- just sitting there.

Easy to fit a marine (boat) switch connected to the Negative battery terminal.

-- Chuck

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Chuck, it appears that the wiring was correct and the battery was discharged. No shore power--could have been pedestal breaker or trailer breaker or something. (I don't think any of us mentioned to Michele that you can't push a tripped breaker lever to ON. You have to push it to OFF, then to ON. Maybe she stumbled onto that and didn't even realize it.)

My first thought--and probably some others--was that if the winch was working opposite to the switch, that polarity to the motor HAD to be backwards. But after a while, I wondered if in lowering the roof, the cable spool went beyond the limit and completely unwound the cable, then continued to run and wound the cable onto the spool in the reverse direction. This would have the same external effect: pushing "Down" would raise the roof and pushing "Up" would lower it. I'd gamble a six-pack that's what happened. Maybe when the RV repair guy looks at the winch Michele will tell us.

Post #31. Shore power. I suggested that she check the campground pedestal, which she did check and the power was shut off at the pedestal. She flipped the power on and had full shore power to her camper.


Also, it seems to me that the battery was NOT wired correctly. Remember that she had a blown fuse and there had to have been a cause for that. imo, the cause was that the black wire should not have been on the negative post and should have been on the positive post. The battery did not seem to be discharged dramatically, having a blown fuse = no power from battery.


As for the winch going beyond its' 'limit'.... and completely unwound the the cable. this may not be possible as a cable wench that is lifting the pop up roof has a natural stopping point by being fully extended. The cable will wind to the wench as it is lifting the roof. It is very possible that she put so much stress on the cables lifting the rood that one of them became out of sink or alignment.

[Chuck_S]

Not sure what loose women have to do with this problem. Maybe you mean winch and not wench? Spell check will not save you.

-- Chuck

[Brother Les]

not funny Cuck,



I answered the post and sentence structure brought out the meaning conveying the idea. My phonics professor in College said that I could spell any way that I wanted. I will ask my Dear Winch to proof read my posts before I hit send. The Winch said this post looked fine.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Post #31. Shore power. I suggested that she check the campground pedestal, which she did check and the power was shut off at the pedestal. She flipped the power on and had full shore power to her camper.

Good call. I was concentrating on the cabling issue.

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Also, it seems to me that the battery was NOT wired correctly. Remember that she had a blown fuse and there had to have been a cause for that. imo, the cause was that the black wire should not have been on the negative post and should have been on the positive post. The battery did not seem to be discharged dramatically, having a blown fuse = no power from battery.

I still disagree with you on this one. I gave rational reasons for my argument. Maybe Michele will post photos of the working configuration.

I think the blown fuse is a red herring. Suppose, for example, that circuit is for the 12v side of a two-way refrigerator that has never been used because they use the always use shore power instead. Maybe Michele will tell us the label on the fuse or remove it and tell us what stops working.

Originally Posted by Brother Les

As for the winch going beyond its' 'limit'.... and completely unwound the the cable. this may not be possible as a cable winch that is lifting the pop up roof has a natural stopping point by being fully extended. The cable will wind to the winch as it is lifting the roof. It is very possible that she put so much stress on the cables lifting the rood that one of them became out of sink or alignment.

Let me explain this again. The hypothesized reverse wind did NOT occur when the roof was raised. It occurred when the roof was lowered all the way down.

Let's assume for now that any limit switches or controls are not operational. (Maybe the blown fuse was for the control circuit but not the high-current motor.)

When the roof is raised, all the cable is wound on the spool in what we will call the "normal direction." When the roof is lowered, most of the cable winds up in the channel, pulleys, etc. with perhaps a few turns left on the spool.

Now, let's suppose that after the roof is all the way down, the motor continues to rotate. (Maybe the user is absent-mindedly continuing to push the button.) The cable goes slack. The last couple of turns unwind. Hopefully the slack cable doesn't come out of the channel or off the pulleys.

As the motor continues to run, the slack cable begins to rewind on the spool in the reverse direction. As the cable tightens, what happens? Well, of course, the roof begins to rise while the user is still pushing the "Lower" button! The confused user thinks "Hmm..." and instead presses the "Raise" button...and the roof lowers!

The confused user then gets on a computer and asks for help.

Well, assuming Michele reads this, and assuming that the cable isn't tangled somewhere, all she has to do to resolve this problem is lean on the Raise button for a while. The spool will completely unwind again, and then wind in the proper direction. Stated another way, the problem was caused by holding the "Lower" button too long and can be fixed by holding the "Raise" button for a long time.

This was as close to an ELI5 explanation as I could get. Write back if it's insufficient.

Of course this would never happen if they raised the roof with a "lead screw" (See image below), but as far as I know, all these units use braided cable.

(I fixed your spelling in this section so as not to propagate the error.)

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

I still disagree with you on this one. I gave rational reasons for my argument. Maybe Michele will post photos of the working configuration.

I think the blown fuse is a red herring. Suppose, for example, that circuit is for the 12v side of a two-way refrigerator that has never been used because they use the always use shore power instead. Maybe Michele will tell us the label on the fuse or remove it and tell us what stops working.


Let me explain this again. The hypothesized reverse wind did NOT occur when the roof was raised. It occurred when the roof was lowered all the way down.

Let's assume for now that any limit switches or controls are not operational. (Maybe the blown fuse was for the control circuit but not the high-current motor.)

When the roof is raised, all the cable is wound on the spool in what we will call the "normal direction." When the roof is lowered, most of the cable winds up in the channel, pulleys, etc. with perhaps a few turns left on the spool.

Now, let's suppose that after the roof is all the way down, the motor continues to rotate. (Maybe the user is absent-mindedly continuing to push the button.) The cable goes slack. The last couple of turns unwind. Hopefully the slack cable doesn't come out of the channel or off the pulleys.

As the motor continues to run, the slack cable begins to rewind on the spool in the reverse direction. As the cable tightens, what happens? Well, of course, the roof begins to rise while the user is still pushing the "Lower" button! The confused user thinks "Hmm..." and instead presses the "Raise" button...and the roof lowers!

The confused user then gets on a computer and asks for help.

Well, assuming Michele reads this, and assuming that the cable isn't tangled somewhere, all she has to do to resolve this problem is lean on the Raise button for a while. The spool will completely unwind again, and then wind in the proper direction. Stated another way, the problem was caused by holding the "Lower" button too long and can be fixed by holding the "Raise" button for a long time.

This was as close to an ELI5 explanation as I could get. Write back if it's insufficient.

Of course this would never happen if they raised the roof with a "lead screw" (See image below), but as far as I know, all these units use braided cable.

(I fixed your spelling in this section so as not to propagate the error.)

Hello Larry.

I wish that she would reply on the battery connection issue. I think that she said that the battery issue is 'ok' now..... ok (?).... 'we all want to know how it is configured NOW to end this. (yes?)



Also, about the winch not allowing the roof to 'come' down... I am not reading through over 50 posts, but I believe that she said that she was having issues with the roof 'coming down' all the way. Was the cable wrapped to much in the wrong direction when she let the roof down on her 'last' camping trip and this issue is now showing up on this camping trip? Don't know. Hope she updates the thread.


Thank-you for fixing my 'eroors', The Dear Winch said the only reason that I have lived so long is because I am dad-gum mean.... and that I like to always tell everyone that I meat how wrong they are.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Hello Larry.

I wish that she would reply on the battery connection issue. I think that she said that the battery issue is 'ok' now..... ok (?).... 'we all want to know how it is configured NOW to end this. (yes?)

Also, about the winch not allowing the roof to 'come' down... I am not reading through over 50 posts, but I believe that she said that she was having issues with the roof 'coming down' all the way. Was the cable wrapped to much in the wrong direction when she let the roof down on her 'last' camping trip and this issue is now showing up on this camping trip? Don't know. Hope she updates the thread.

Les, in one of the real early posts, Michele said that the roof lift was working backward, raising when the Lower was pressed, and lowering when Raise was pressed.

And then there was no shore power (subject of the entire thread). And we learned the battery had previously been disconnected and reconnected.

We later found out (thanks to you) that the pedestal breaker was off which fixed the shore power issue.

But all of us know that a DC motor will run backward if connected in reverse. (In fact, the Raise/Lower switch is nothing more than a momentary-contact reversing switch with a center-off position. So we made the (I believe erroneous) conclusion that the battery was reversed. Since the reverse polarity fuses never blew, I think we can reject that conclusion.

I'd like to see an update too, but I wonder if she has unsubscribed due to the number of unjustified speculative posts and the harsh language in the last couple of posts.