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Old 04-14-2024, 08:48 PM   #1
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Shunt tripping inverter

I'm trying to install the Renogy 500A battery monitor. Everything works with out the shunt. I connected the negative battery terminal to B- side of the shunt and the P- side of the shunt to the frame. When I turn on the inverter the inverter trips out. Any ideas?
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Old 04-14-2024, 10:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyD View Post
I'm trying to install the Renogy 500A battery monitor. Everything works with out the shunt. I connected the negative battery terminal to B- side of the shunt and the P- side of the shunt to the frame. When I turn on the inverter the inverter trips out. Any ideas?
Why would you connect the P- side to the frame? The shunt needs to be in series with the return side of your battery. You should only have one connection on your battery negative terminal and that would be the B- side of the shunt. What used to connect to your battery negative terminal will be the negative wires you removed from your negative terminal on the,battery.

This was all current returning to your battery will flow thru the shunt.

Iím not sure why your inverter is tripping but before you try to troubleshoot that you need to connect the shunt correctly.
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Old 04-14-2024, 10:36 PM   #3
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Remove the shunt and see if the inverter trips off
You may have an inverter problem?

Make sure nothing 120v is turned on so no load on the inverter

Shunt should be connected to a busbar or similar so inverter and any other negatives go to the shunt

I wouldn’t put the inverter negatives to the factory wiring to the frame
You would have to check the negatives to the frame make sure thaw are good!
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Old 04-15-2024, 08:05 AM   #4
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Sorry if I'm a little slow with this.

The original single negative wire went from the battery terminal to the frame of the motorhome. I basically inserted the shunt into that line.

The inverter work fine if I remove the shunt. Which would indicate the way I have the shunt installed is the problem.

I'm thing about removing the ground wire from the inverter (now ground is going to the frame) and run it the the shunt.
That is a 15' run of 1/0 wire for $70. I'm cheap and would like to feel confident that's going to solve my problem.
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Old 04-15-2024, 10:20 AM   #5
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UPDATE:
I got in contact with Renogy Support. They said it looks like I connected the stunt correctly. They think that the shunt is the problem and will send me a new one.
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Old 04-20-2024, 04:46 PM   #6
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Is it a UL approved or compliant inverter?
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Old 04-22-2024, 09:22 AM   #7
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I'm using the Renogy 2000w inverter.
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Old 04-22-2024, 07:23 PM   #8
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Your not using a negetive cable for your inverter ? Nobody uses the chassis for that.
Could be the negetive cable slipped out of site.

It should be on the chassis side of the shunt.
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Old 04-22-2024, 07:52 PM   #9
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The shunt is just a large, known resistance, conductor with "electronics" attached that measure the voltage drop across it and calcilate the current.

It can be installed in either direction and not interfere with current flow. Current readings, in or out of battery, will just be reversed.

Most shunts I've seen are constructed of a series of brass strips connecting large connector blocks, brazed or silver soldered in place. Defective brazing or soldering can cause reduced current flow and resultant low voltage shutdown if inverter.

This of course assumes all wire connections are tight, like wire added between shunt and battery or wire between shunt and frame.

Lastly, a bad shunt due to improper construction will show some bizarre current readings, far higher than actual current.
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