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Old 12-03-2017, 05:17 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by LindaLyles1 View Post
Just got in touch with electrician and he did wire it 240. He is coming by in the morning and I will give him the printout flybob attached.
If your "electrician" wired up a 30-TT Receptacle with 240VAC, then he's not much of an electrician. Smoke coming out of the service panel is never a good thing. This is pure negligence on his part. I would ask him for his license number, and his insurance carrier.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:33 PM   #42
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Yes, indeed. See post #13 where the OP has already acknowledged that her electrician confirmed he wired it 240 volts. Also, see the post #38 refer-back.
Thanks for the update. With five pages of comments, I didn't feel compelled to read every one.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:07 PM   #43
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Help please! I just got my new MiniLite 2104, brought it home and plugged into my newly installed 30amp electrical plug. Smoke started billowing out beside the fuse panel. Don't know if it was coming from fuse panel or the round vent next to it. Smelled like burning. I immediately unplugged and turned off battery. What did I do wrong???? What do I need to do now? Several hundred miles to dealer, not sure if anyone local can help. I live in Ft Lauderdale FL.
The device I purchased, and it was expensive, tells me if the power supply is wired correctly, backwards, no ground or ground in wrong place as well as suppressing surges. I have a Surge Guard 34850 Portable Model with LCD Display for a 50 Amp supply. You can get them in 30 amp as well. Always plug in your protection device first before plugging the rig in to power.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:24 PM   #44
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Some do, but there is really no way of knowing how many it may have helped that saw it beforehand. We do have members here who join before they install a dedicated outlet at their house.


Joined first, bought the stuff, got nervous and hired an electrician for the first one. Everything work out fine so I copied his work and ran another 50 amp out the gravel pad 100 (ish) feet from the house. I went to an electrical supply, told them what the was doing and the clerk pulled out a calculator to determined the wire gauge I needed. It was really thick. I can keep mine heated and cooled and have a place for family to hook up at the same time.
Thanks FRF and wmtire!
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:52 PM   #45
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Another "keeper" to add to my now 30 saved thread subscriptions. (and growing every month)
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:57 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by oldblueroadking View Post
The device I purchased, and it was expensive, tells me if the power supply is wired correctly, backwards, no ground or ground in wrong place as well as suppressing surges. I have a Surge Guard 34850 Portable Model with LCD Display for a 50 Amp supply. You can get them in 30 amp as well. Always plug in your protection device first before plugging the rig in to power.
VERY GOOD advice! Expensive, but CHEAP in the long run if it saves you from One such incident!

I am VERY sorry OP had this problem right off the bat. I SINCERELY it does not sour you on camping in general. As you have learned, there are MANY on here willing to share their knowledge and experience!
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:08 PM   #47
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GOT IT FIXED. Thanks so much for the electrical diagram. Nothing else was damaged. Looking forward to my first trip this weekend.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:24 PM   #48
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GOT IT FIXED. Thanks so much for the electrical diagram. Nothing else was damaged. Looking forward to my first trip this weekend.
Glad you got it fixed and can hopefully move on.
Thanks for coming back and reporting so.

Curious minds want to know what you may/may not had to replace besides rewiring the plug? You mentioned smoke billowing from the fuse box in your OP. If that fuse box you were referring to is the one in your RV, that is never a good sign and not one I'd take to mean didn't need some extensive repairs.

Please be sure EVERYTHING in your R/V is safe.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:41 PM   #49
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Red face

Replaced plug to 120v and replaced converter. Did not upgrade at this time, just put same model back in. Didn't want to rock the boat more than necessary. Checked everything and all works - Thank Goodness!! I was very, very relieved!
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:42 PM   #50
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Thanks so much for all the replies. Helps to know you are not alone and someone is willing to share!
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:46 PM   #51
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Replaced plug to 120v and replaced converter. Did not upgrade at this time, just put same model back in. Didn't want to rock the boat more than necessary. Checked everything and all works - Thank Goodness!! I was very, very relieved!
Get a surge protector NOW and use it at home and at campgrounds. You got very very lucky. Members will give you some suggestions on what to get.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:56 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by LindaLyles1 View Post
Replaced plug to 120v and replaced converter. Did not upgrade at this time, just put same model back in. Didn't want to rock the boat more than necessary. Checked everything and all works - Thank Goodness!! I was very, very relieved!
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Originally Posted by LindaLyles1 View Post
Thanks so much for all the replies. Helps to know you are not alone and someone is willing to share!
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Get a surge protector NOW and use it at home and at campgrounds. You got very very lucky. Members will give you some suggestions on what to get.
Wonderful Linda!

Brother Les advice is good but I'll respectfully disagree you need one NOW. Hundreds of thousands of folks have successfully camped in their rigs for years without the use of surge protectors on power grids that were way more unreliable than they are today.

Are surge protectors good protection and would it have saved you from this disaster... yes. Are they absolutely necessary... no.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:52 PM   #53
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Surge protectors are only good for voltage spikes. They don't protect against over-voltage, low voltage (brown outs), open ground, lost neutral, hot-neutral mis-wire (also known as reversed polarity), high frequency or low frequency (Hz).

I have been asked what is the difference between a surge and an over-voltage.

A surge is the sudden spike of high voltage lasting for a short time, usually only a second or so. Surge protection is sacrificial, meaning once a surge happens the device needs to be replaced. On portable units the complete unit needs replaced, hard-wired units have a module that gets replaced.

A over-voltage is the gradual rising of voltage above the normal 120 volts. Most appliances are built to handle 110 to 130 volts. The gradual rise in voltage usually happens at the source of power (electric generation station), power transformer or from the removal of other loads from the distribution line.

With today's computerized and power sensitive appliances, there is more possibilities of damage and they cannot withstand many of those listed above.

What is needed is a EMS (Energy Management System). An EMS monitors the power and will shut down the system if it finds anything other than normal operating condition. Problems monitored for are listed below.

Reverse Polarity (hot and neutral wires reversed)
Open Ground (no ground wire connection)
Line 1 High Voltage (line voltage above 132V)
Line 1 Low Voltage (line voltage below 104V)
Line 2 Voltage High (Line voltage above 132V) 50 amp units only
Line 2 Voltage Low (Line voltage below 104V) 50 amp units only
Line Frequency High (line frequency above 69 cycles per second)
Line Frequency Low (line frequency below 51 cycles per second)
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:08 PM   #54
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The term/acronym of EMS can be used to describe two different RV related items.

It can mean Electrical Management System... as in a Progressive Dynamics EMS/Surge Protector that would have saved the OP from being able to connect to a 240 volt wired outlet.

Progressive Industries, Inc. | Rv Surge Protection

-------------------------

It can also be an acronym for an Energy Management System, which is used to share/shed electrical loads to keep from overloading circuits/tripping circuit breakers.

Freedom Sequence Intelligent Power Manager (EMS)

https://www.intellitec.com/index.php...gy_Management/

It is confusing somewhat
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:15 PM   #55
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Add one more vote for the Progressive Industries EMS (hard wired)

When in Florida, Texas, NM and lots of places we were hit with strong storms. The EMS would protect the trailer with no fears.

Wouldn't live without one.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:26 AM   #56
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wmtire, I stand corrected, you are right in that EMS refers to 2 different systems. My bad for not stating that Electrical Management System was what I was talking about.

I was trying to set another poster straight that implied a simple surge protector is all you need to protect your electric appliances. And I'm sure that would not prevented the OP's problem. People new to RV's will not understand there is a big difference between a surge protector and an electrical management system. Even a energy management system for that matter. I have the first type (EMS-HW30C) but not the second.

I think to differentiate between the two, terms/acronyms should be EMS for the Electrical Management System and IEM for Intelligent Energy Manager. But that would be too simple for the people who make up the acronyms. JMHO.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:43 AM   #57
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outlet It’s probably wired wrong if you put the legs on the wrong wires your fry everything in it
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:07 AM   #58
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outlet It’s probably wired wrong if you put the legs on the wrong wires your fry everything in it
Yes, that was what happened Jeff. The OP confirmed such in post #13 and it's all been fixed since post #49.
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:44 PM   #59
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hope everything turned out ok.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:55 PM   #60
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These long threads are tough to keep track off... Post 13... Post 49... We need a edit button for the OP to go in and add the final outcome to post 1.. Saves me from 6 pages of entertainment, misfortune and or reading if not needed.
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