One side note on the fridge. You have the amps, but have you estimated the duty cycle? The fridge should not run all the time.
For grins, assume 3.3 amps for 24 hours = 79.2 AH.
But if the fridge only runs half the time, that's only 40 AH...still a huge power suck, but when calculating capacity, you need to include estimated run time into the equation.
Also remember (I think you already know this), that pretty much any battery that is NOT a LiFePo4 can give you half of its rated capacity. Your plan - "...2 of the 6 volt 224ah AGM..." will give you about 112 usable AH. Doubling up will yield 224 AH.
But, if you have 4 x 6 volt batteries that can deliver 224 AH per day, you may need to recalculate your solar capacity to ensure your solar array can top off those batteries if you consume that much. A decent rule of thumb for solar output is somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per 100 watts. 570 watts means roughly 30 amps per hour or so at full tilt boogie...the golden time between about 11 am and 1 pm or so. The rest of the day, it's less. As a crude estimate, assume roughly 12 solar hours per day, and during those hours your array might average about 3 amps or less. In round numbers, 600 watts at 3 amps average for 12 hours equals about 216 AH on a nice, sunny day with good, unobstructed exposure. That's almost enough to fill 4 batteries.
Of course, your mileage will vary depending on weather, shade, and so on. All are factors to consider. Bebee, AZ should have pretty good solar gain much of the time.
OTOH, in AZ, I expect you'll be seeking shade if you are not on the grid to run the air conditioner(s). Suddenly, all that sun is blocked to some degree.
Now, you mention loads. That inverter running a 50" TV and some fan or other? Just do the math. Ask this calculator any question, but ALWAYS use 12 volts for the voltage, because your ultimate power source is the battery bank. I don't care that the TV is 120 volts. That inverter is connected to the battery. Calculator:
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html Plug in 12 volts, and then either watts or amps, and you have your answer. As an illustration, if your 50", 120 volt TV pulls 200 watts, that's 16.7 amps/hour for every hour you run it. Add in about 10% inefficiency for the inverter for good measure, and that rounds off to more than 18 amps. How are you feeding signal to that TV? Antenna signal is free. Dish Network equipment? Not so much. The numbers for your TV should be on a data plate or in the owner's manual. If you are using a satellite system, it, too, has it's own power needs. So does a blue-ray or DVD player. There's no free lunch anywhere along the line.
Now remember the fridge, all the regular 12 volt loads like the pump, ignition for the hot water heater, lights, roof fans, and so on, then throw in the parasitic loads. Be thorough. Does your range have a hood with a power vent? Do you run the awning and/or stair lights? How about running that awning in and out? Then there's the slide(s)--looks like 3 in your case. Recovering from running those in and out will take some solar time. You get the picture.
You are considering a rather robust system, but then again there's that 12 volt fridge.
Have fun with your planning.
PS How much do 4 x 6 volt golf cart batteries weigh? (Answer, about 90 pounds each...then there's all that heavy copper wiring, etc., boxes or frameworks to hold them, and so on.) Can your rig handle that weight - about 400 pounds? Do you have room for them? Judging by your rig, I presume you can handle 4, but it's a valid question...especially for folks with puny rigs like mine. I make do with 400 watts and two GC2s, but my fridge runs on propane.
Linear Mode
