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Old 01-30-2023, 05:12 PM   #1
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Solar “generator”/suitcase(?) for boat camping

My LiFePO4 conversion of my campers took a lower priority when the “too cold” to work outside weather hit. My daughter up’d the priority when she asked me about boat access only no power available camping this summer. My priority for boondocking is my cpap. Luckily my grandkids/daughter/son-in-law know how to get along w/o power consumption. 12 volt power needs only at this time.

I’m looking at buying the rest of my system to hopefully ease cost of expansion and reduce the number of components I need to repurchase to increase capacity. I would like the ability to dual use any components I can in my camper project(s). An inverter would be a future expansion.

I currently have two 100Ah Battleborns and a Victron BMV-712. Not sure if a third battery would come into play. I’d like to stay with Victron components.

I would like to start at 200-300 watts of solar to be able to expand to maybe 600 watts.

To accommodate 200-600 watts of solar, can I use a Victron Smart Solar MPPT 100/30 or 100/50-12 volt charge controller at the 200-300 watt starting point?

How do I size the circuit breaker/fuses. Do some of them need resized with increased solar?

Thank you in advance,

Mark
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Old 01-30-2023, 05:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Camp20144 View Post
My LiFePO4 conversion of my campers took a lower priority when the “too cold” to work outside weather hit. My daughter up’d the priority when she asked me about boat access only no power available camping this summer. My priority for boondocking is my cpap. Luckily my grandkids/daughter/son-in-law know how to get along w/o power consumption. 12 volt power needs only at this time.

I’m looking at buying the rest of my system to hopefully ease cost of expansion and reduce the number of components I need to repurchase to increase capacity. I would like the ability to dual use any components I can in my camper project(s). An inverter would be a future expansion.

I currently have two 100Ah Battleborns and a Victron BMV-712. Not sure if a third battery would come into play. I’d like to stay with Victron components.

I would like to start at 200-300 watts of solar to be able to expand to maybe 600 watts.

To accommodate 200-600 watts of solar, can I use a Victron Smart Solar MPPT 100/30 or 100/50-12 volt charge controller at the 200-300 watt starting point?

How do I size the circuit breaker/fuses. Do some of them need resized with increased solar?

Thank you in advance,

Mark
Mark,
Generally speaking, it all depends. What I suggest is that you figure out what your maximum solar array will be in the future, then design your system around it.

At your experience level, IMO, it is imperative that you learn more about solar before you start buying equipment. I strongly suggest that you go to one of the websites like DIYSOLAR (system blueprints) or Explorist.life and view their videos and web pages. Explorist.life will take you through the complete design of your system including WEB calculators for sizing fuses and wires.

Fuses are placed to protect the wiring. You have to know what your max. amps will be going through your wires and size them appropriately. Fuses are placed at the up stream beginning of the wires and are generally 1.20 times the max amperage going through the wire. Have fun.
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Old 01-30-2023, 06:19 PM   #3
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Mark,
Generally speaking, it all depends. What I suggest is that you figure out what your maximum solar array will be in the future, then design your system around it.

At your experience level, IMO, it is imperative that you learn more about solar before you start buying equipment. I strongly suggest that you go to one of the websites like DIYSOLAR (system blueprints) or Explorist.life and view their videos and web pages. Explorist.life will take you through the complete design of your system including WEB calculators for sizing fuses and wires.

Fuses are placed to protect the wiring. You have to know what your max. amps will be going through your wires and size them appropriately. Fuses are placed at the up stream beginning of the wires and are generally 1.20 times the max amperage going through the wire. Have fun.
Thank you for your reply. I’ve been lurking here on this site and on DIY Solar Power and purchased Will Prowse’s book referenced on his site. I’ve not been on Explorist that I recall. I’m on the learning curve for sure. I didn’t recall seeing a build with knowing that up-sizing was planned in from the start.
My problem is I’m trying to build for my 5th wheel (roof substructure not looking good), a 9.5 foot slide-in pickup camper and now boat-in camping. I titled my article as a “generator”/suitcase as the boat version made me think of the DIY Solar generators. My thought was use a commercially available “toolbox” to put the components in, which I could move from camper to camper to…, or use at home during power outages. I think 600 watts of solar would be my maximum. That would be a combination of roof mount and ground mount portables.
Thank you,
Mark
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Old 01-30-2023, 07:14 PM   #4
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I usually consider the "Solar Generators" to be over priced compared to a build your own system. For you though, wanting portability, a Jackery, Bluetti, Ecoflow type system may be worth the convenience for moving between a trailer and a boat. The real issue is what size battery storage do you need, and how many watts do you need the inverter to output. At minimum enough to get through the night, but multiple nights would be better, so you don't need to worry about recharging every day. Once you decide what your needs are, then you can decide on a model you like, or what components you need to build your own.
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Old 01-30-2023, 09:50 PM   #5
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I usually consider the "Solar Generators" to be over priced compared to a build your own system. For you though, wanting portability, a Jackery, Bluetti, Ecoflow type system may be worth the convenience for moving between a trailer and a boat. The real issue is what size battery storage do you need, and how many watts do you need the inverter to output. At minimum enough to get through the night, but multiple nights would be better, so you don't need to worry about recharging every day. Once you decide what your needs are, then you can decide on a model you like, or what components you need to build your own.
Thank you, yeah, I looked at the ready built “solar generators” and like you, I discounted them pretty quick, the expense and limited power. Then you need to make sure it’s not LA battery based. The expense takes another big jump when you get a LiFePO battery unit. What I’m looking at is having the batteries separate. Then have the electronics in a “suitcase”. I currently don’t have 120 volt needs, therefore I see an inverter as a later upgrade.
The only real reason that I need a power source is my cpap, which will run directly from a 12 volt source. When I purchased the BB batteries, based upon my cpaps 120 volt power supply, BB thought I might get 2 six hour nights of sleep out of one BB 100Ah battery. With that I could probably just run with the two batteries and get a safe three nights sleep, just recharge when I get home.
My thought was to see if I could build it out to take advantage of some charging capacity.
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Old 01-30-2023, 11:50 PM   #6
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Reading your first post kind of made my head hurt. However....the bottleneck in your whole system is going to be the charge controller for the solar panels. My advice would be to get a solar controller that will allow you to add more panels than currently planned on. If you decide that you don't have enough solar capacity to match your batteries, then you can add panels and not have to upgrade the controller.

We have 2 cpaps. Mine runs off 12v, and my wife's plugs into a 400 watt pure sinewave inverter. We have 2 6-volt lead-acid GC batteries for 220aH - however only 110aH usable (50% rule with lead-acid batteries). We can boondock 2 days without recharging. I do not have solar on my trailer (I do have 9.5kW solar on my house though!)

Note: turn off the humidifier and tube heat on the cpaps to minimize electrical usage.
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Old 01-31-2023, 11:35 AM   #7
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Reading your first post kind of made my head hurt. However....the bottleneck in your whole system is going to be the charge controller for the solar panels. My advice would be to get a solar controller that will allow you to add more panels than currently planned on. If you decide that you don't have enough solar capacity to match your batteries, then you can add panels and not have to upgrade the controller.

We have 2 cpaps. Mine runs off 12v, and my wife's plugs into a 400 watt pure sinewave inverter. We have 2 6-volt lead-acid GC batteries for 220aH - however only 110aH usable (50% rule with lead-acid batteries). We can boondock 2 days without recharging. I do not have solar on my trailer (I do have 9.5kW solar on my house though!)

Note: turn off the humidifier and tube heat on the cpaps to minimize electrical usage.
Thank you for your comments. I reread my first post - made my head hurt. One of those posts that should have marinated for awhile before clicking “post”.
Based upon your comment regarding Solar charge controller size, am I correct to think that if I size the controller to handle 800 watts of solar that, if circumstances dictate, I can have just 200 watts of solar connected?

Your cpap comments were also helpful. I will be picking up a kill-a-watt to get actual power usage for my cpap with and w/out the humidifier and heat tube. I’ve just used the 120 volt power supply rating to determine cpap power “usage”.
Mark
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:33 PM   #8
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Your cpap comments were also helpful. I will be picking up a kill-a-watt to get actual power usage for my cpap with and w/out the humidifier and heat tube. I’ve just used the 120 volt power supply rating to determine cpap power “usage”.
Mark
the Kill-a-Watt is a great tool! when you determine the power consumption of your cpap, remember that your inverter isn't 100% efficient, so the load on the battery will be more than the aHr you calculate from the kill-a-watt. the manufacturer of your inverter will tell you what the efficiency of their unit is.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:58 PM   #9
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the Kill-a-Watt is a great tool! when you determine the power consumption of your cpap, remember that your inverter isn't 100% efficient, so the load on the battery will be more than the aHr you calculate from the kill-a-watt. the manufacturer of your inverter will tell you what the efficiency of their unit is.
My cpap can be powered directly off of a 12 volt battery. It has a separate cpap to battery power cord. I’m assuming any losses to efficiency should be minimized?
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:08 PM   #10
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My cpap can be powered directly off of a 12 volt battery. It has a separate cpap to battery power cord. I’m assuming any losses to efficiency should be minimized?

do you have a 12v outlet in the trailer / RV
so you can plugin the cpap to use the 12v



it's simple enough to add an outlet or 2
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Old 01-31-2023, 09:03 PM   #11
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do you have a 12v outlet in the trailer / RV
so you can plugin the cpap to use the 12v

it's simple enough to add an outlet or 2
I believe there is a “cigarette lighter” style 12 volt outlet by the bed.
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Old 02-01-2023, 12:31 AM   #12
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Based upon your comment regarding Solar charge controller size, am I correct to think that if I size the controller to handle 800 watts of solar that, if circumstances dictate, I can have just 200 watts of solar connected?
Correct.
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Old 02-01-2023, 08:18 AM   #13
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A possible solution. Since you have some nice batteries and electronics. You might want to camp somewhere ( even home) where you have power available and get some data on the ability of your system to handle your needs using shore power to recharge only. You can try using various appliances and determine your electrical needs. Once you have this data you can determine what items you need to add and what additional capabilities you can add. For higher capacity systems I recommend you configure your system from components ( Panels,controller, etc) rather than a suitcase or power generator as the convenience usually adds cost and reduces efficiency.
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Old 02-01-2023, 06:36 PM   #14
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A possible solution. Since you have some nice batteries and electronics. You might want to camp somewhere ( even home) where you have power available and get some data on the ability of your system to handle your needs using shore power to recharge only. You can try using various appliances and determine your electrical needs. Once you have this data you can determine what items you need to add and what additional capabilities you can add. For higher capacity systems I recommend you configure your system from components ( Panels,controller, etc) rather than a suitcase or power generator as the convenience usually adds cost and reduces efficiency.
Thank you, yes, a good thought to run my cpap off my battery system at home with battery monitoring. That should produce better info than the kill-a-watt plugged into 110v wall power.

My intent is to build my own “suitcase” so that I have the ability to tailor the individual components to my needs. Also, since I want more available amp hours than commercial “suitcases” I figure on having the batteries separate. The “suitcase” will house the electronics/components. The batteries and solar panels will connect via their cables using appropriate connections. I see some of the commercial “suitcases” (Bluetti for one) has expansion batteries. I would end up with multiple pieces commercially to get the amp hours I may need/desire anyway.
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Old 02-01-2023, 07:19 PM   #15
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I installed this battery monitor. I just cut a hole in the top of my plastic battery box and mounted it right there with a bead of silicone sealant around it. Took me 10 minutes to install. You will need the jumper from the negative battery post to the shunt, though.

https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Voltmete...dp/B07FGFFHC6/
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Old 02-01-2023, 08:29 PM   #16
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I built my solar generator last year for a 2 month trip. I was going to mount everything in/on our TT but decided to go portable. We used it on that trip and a few other times and it has met our needs without fail. The only thing is I would like to clean up the wiring but that isn't high on my list of things to do at this time. It consists of Jita 12 volt 300 amp hour LiFePO4 battery with a 200A BMS, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger with a MPPT SCC, Giandel 2200 watt inverter, PV combiner box, 4 100 watt panels, fuses, switches and associated wiring. I built it so you just plug it in like hooking up to shore power. The only thing we don't run is the AC unit. I have run the AC just to see if it would and it does. With the wife who makes no effort to conserve power beside not running the AC, it will last about 18 hours without charging, long enough to make it thru night and then some. If it's just me and the solar panels are hooked up and I get a few hours a day of sun, water and waste are my limiting factors for the length of my stay. I'm 68 and can move it around by myself but will accept help if offered.
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Old 02-01-2023, 08:35 PM   #17
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I installed this battery monitor. I just cut a hole in the top of my plastic battery box and mounted it right there with a bead of silicone sealant around it. Took me 10 minutes to install. You will need the jumper from the negative battery post to the shunt, though.

https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Voltmete...dp/B07FGFFHC6/
Yeah, I have a battery monitor that I plan on mounting. Everything I read emphasized a battery monitor and it makes sense to track the health of your expensive batteries.
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Old 02-01-2023, 08:54 PM   #18
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I built my solar generator last year for a 2 month trip. I was going to mount everything in/on our TT but decided to go portable. We used it on that trip and a few other times and it has met our needs without fail. The only thing is I would like to clean up the wiring but that isn't high on my list of things to do at this time. It consists of Jita 12 volt 300 amp hour LiFePO4 battery with a 200A BMS, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger with a MPPT SCC, Giandel 2200 watt inverter, PV combiner box, 4 100 watt panels, fuses, switches and associated wiring. I built it so you just plug it in like hooking up to shore power. The only thing we don't run is the AC unit. I have run the AC just to see if it would and it does. With the wife who makes no effort to conserve power beside not running the AC, it will last about 18 hours without charging, long enough to make it thru night and then some. If it's just me and the solar panels are hooked up and I get a few hours a day of sun, water and waste are my limiting factors for the length of my stay. I'm 68 and can move it around by myself but will accept help if offered.
Hi, your system is in two boxes, the Bauer and the Plano? The Plano contains the battery and inverter? The Bauer has everything else besides the solar panels? I think your system is a lot like I have envisioned for my “DIY suitcase” system. Your solar combiner is connected to the Bauer? How long are your wires from your panels to your Bauer?
Thanks,
Mark
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Old 02-01-2023, 09:33 PM   #19
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Hi, your system is in two boxes, the Bauer and the Plano? The Plano contains the battery and inverter? The Bauer has everything else besides the solar panels? I think your system is a lot like I have envisioned for my “DIY suitcase” system. Your solar combiner is connected to the Bauer? How long are your wires from your panels to your Bauer?
Thanks,
Mark
The Bauer and PV combiner boxes are mounted to the lid of the Plano tote. The Bauer box contains the inverter. The Plano tote holds the battery, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger/SCC controller, breakers, fuses, terminal blocks and switches. I used two 4 wire 14 gauge SO cables that are each 12' long to connect the panels to the PV combiner box.
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Old 02-01-2023, 10:57 PM   #20
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The Bauer and PV combiner boxes are mounted to the lid of the Plano tote. The Bauer box contains the inverter. The Plano tote holds the battery, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger/SCC controller, breakers, fuses, terminal blocks and switches. I used two 4 wire 14 gauge SO cables that are each 12' long to connect the panels to the PV combiner box.
Ok, that clarifies a couple things in your previous pictures. The 30A plug on the Bauer box is so you can plug your camper shore power directly into your “suitcase”? You were able to start your A/C, do you have a soft start on your A/C?
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