Solar on or off when connected to shore power?

[jma57]

Thanks everyone. I'll keep the system on pretty much all the time except for any kind of maintenance, upgrade, electrical work , etc.

[Twinboat]

Originally Posted by TacomaJoe

I have mine on 99% of the time. The solar and shore power work together just fine.

The only time I shut my solar down is when my trailer is just sitting at home. if its an extended period (couple of weeks) I turn off the solar and the converter and let the batteries drain down some.

I'm assuming you have lithium batteries.

Letting lead acid batteries drain down is detrimental to them. Best life is sitting at float voltage.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by MGD1961

What brand or type controller is that. I’m factory trained with both Victron and Mastervolt and have never heard of any such thing.

There has been discussion regarding "connect battery first" but the most reasonable explanation regards 12/24 volt controllers. If the voltage output is automatically selected it's probably best done by battery connection first.

If the mfr puts no caution in their instructions they evidently see no issue. If they do it's best to heed them.

[jimmoore13]

Solar and Shore Power/Generator are 100% compatible. No need to disconnect solar when you have a shore power/generator supply.

The battery is in control, providing all the feedback needed to both the converter/charger in the camper and the solar charge controller.

Think of it like jump starting a car. The dead car relies on the host car for power to start. Once running, power is coming from the host car and the formerly dead car's alternator, and the battery in the formerly dead car provides the feedback to regulate it all with no muss, no fuss.

Set it and forget it.

The reason for the disconnect between the panels and the solar charge controller is primarily that the solar charge controller needs the feedback from the battery to know what to do with the power coming from the panels...mostly...and to have a place to send it. But bear in mind that the battery can be fully charged, and the solar charge controller can throttle back to just a trickle the current to the battery bank. The charge controller can handle the incoming power so long as it has a battery to tell it what to do with that power.

[ErnieSimons]

Originally Posted by MGD1961

What brand or type controller is that. I’m factory trained with both Victron and Mastervolt and have never heard of any such thing.

I've read that in a Victron controller manual. Never have solar panels connected without batteries connected. I always put a disconnect on both.

[Bob K4TAX]

I always practice and advise one to leave the batteries connected and the battery switch set to ON. Let the solar controller and converter controller do their jobs.

If one is doing maintenance, that is a different set of suggestions. Follow the solar controller manufacturers' procedures.

Bob

[Chris Holt]

Originally Posted by boondocking

Use a controller that does not state "connect battery first"

That is a sensible precaution. Even with protection, the controller could be confused about the proper voltage for the storage system.

https://www.renogy.com/academy/solar...e-Solar-Panels

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by mysery1

I'd leave it on. If it was me I would want a disconnect for the solar panels, both positive and negative leads.

Ditto. Currently running 600 watts solar to 600 amps of LiFePo. And my inverter/converter will charge up to 102 amps when demand is there. They seem to work on harmony just fine.

PS. I WOULD SHUT OFF PANELS BEFORE I SHUT OFF THAT LEAF TO THE BATTERIES. You'd probably be just fine 9 out of 10 times but that 10th time you might fry your charge controller. The room is always battery power to the charge controller before the solar and vice versa when you're detaching.

[ppine]

It is common and acceptable in electrical work to color code conductors with tape.
Make everything clear. It is confusing enough when done right.
120v colors are black/hot, white/neutral, green/ground.
12v colors are red/hot, black/neutral.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by ppine

It is common and acceptable in electrical work to color code conductors with tape.
Make everything clear. It is confusing enough when done right.
120v colors are black/hot, white/neutral, green/ground.
12v colors are red/hot, black/neutral.

And yet FR uses Red for battery positive connection and White for negative/ground.

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by ppine

It is common and acceptable in electrical work to color code conductors with tape.
Make everything clear. It is confusing enough when done right.
120v colors are black/hot, white/neutral, green/ground.
12v colors are red/hot, black/neutral.

I always thought DC circuit black is ground/negative...or for the Brits.. EARTH!

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by NJKris

I always thought DC circuit black is ground/negative...or for the Brits.. EARTH!

I don't think there is any real standard color code for color coding 12v dc circuits in RV's. The automotive industry uses red/black but in my TT every negative wire is white and positive wires use a rainbow of colors.

For large wires, like #6 and larger, many use welding cable which is rarely available in other than red or black.

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I don't think there is any real standard color code for color coding 12v dc circuits in RV's. The automotive industry uses red/black but in my TT every negative wire is white and positive wires use a rainbow of colors.

For large wires, like #6 and larger, many use welding cable which is rarely available in other than red or black.

ppine wrote DC circuit black/neutral. I've just never heard neutral used to refer to ground, only heard neutral used on AC circuits.

[JimM2109S]

And continuing to make DC circuitry confusing... in marine wiring, either black or yellow may be used for the ground wire.