solving power issue

[boondocking]

Don't remove the covering.

If that trailer has a breaker (which it should) it would be accessible without removing the underbelly covering. I'm not sure where else to look.

[Bob K4TAX]

Time to call in an RV technician to deal with the issue. Too many throwing darts at the target. All good suggestions but if one doesn't understand the complexity of an RV system, well .......... it is going to be frustrating for all concerned.

Bob

[ldaven68]

Originally Posted by boondocking

Don't remove the covering.

If that trailer has a breaker (which it should) it would be accessible without removing the underbelly covering. I'm not sure where else to look.

Thanks for trying

[ldaven68]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

Time to call in an RV technician to deal with the issue. Too many throwing darts at the target. All good suggestions but if one doesn't understand the complexity of an RV system, well .......... it is going to be frustrating for all concerned.

Bob

Yes we have an appointment but not until May 9th. So I’ll guess we have to wait and see. Will update everyone when we find out. Certainly doesn’t make it easy to fix ourselves. Would be nice if we could at least get to the fuse box. Really bad design. Thx everyone

[boondocking]

Originally Posted by ldaven68

Thanks for trying

You are welcome!
Hopefully it is a quick fix.

[garywilson]

Originally Posted by ldaven68

I looked on the frame and followed the wires but nothing but the 30 amp inline fuse. our underbelly has a cover over it. Maybe will have to see if we can take that off ? Thx

Common slide breaker is 40 amp.

If mounted under the belly (probably is), the 'covering' should have a hole already there with a piece of the same material covering the hole, probably held in place by a couple of screws. You will probably have to crawl/creeper under the trailer to get to it. It will be under the trailer and fairly close to the battery.

These breakers are prone to loosened nuts, breakage, and corrosion. Frequently they will work intermittently and then cease working, much like if the switch was going bad.

Good luck! When mine went out on a trip we had to crawl around in the trailer because I didn't know where the breaker was. I replaced it with one that has stainless steel bolts & nuts. I sent the new motor I ordered back, refund less shipping and restocking fee.

[MNtraveler]

“ We have no battery disconnect switch.”

Basically every RV has a battery on off switch. So, I’ll just ask it. Is your battery on/off switch turned on?

It looks like you have a pass-thru storage compartment immediately behind the hitch. If so, it may be in there.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

“ We have no battery disconnect switch.”

Basically every RV has a battery on off switch.

You'd be wrong. Many RVs don't have factory battery disconnect switches. I've had three that didn't. Most stick and tin trailers don't have one. Folding trailers don't.



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[simiHal]

Yes, you may need to drop the front part of the underbelly near the battery. I’ve seen several trailers with fuses and many of the 12v items wired into them there as my slide, tongue jack and electric stabilizers, instead of the panel. Mine were attached to the frame immediately behind the battery cable entrance of the underbelly.

[ldaven68]

Originally Posted by garywilson

Common slide breaker is 40 amp.

If mounted under the belly (probably is), the 'covering' should have a hole already there with a piece of the same material covering the hole, probably held in place by a couple of screws. You will probably have to crawl/creeper under the trailer to get to it. It will be under the trailer and fairly close to the battery.

These breakers are prone to loosened nuts, breakage, and corrosion. Frequently they will work intermittently and then cease working, much like if the switch was going bad.

Good luck! When mine went out on a trip we had to crawl around in the trailer because I didn't know where the breaker was. I replaced it with one that has stainless steel bolts & nuts. I sent the new motor I ordered back, refund less shipping and restocking fee.

Thx. hubby crawled under and couldn’t find any opening It’s the lights too. our pump fans awning bad power tongue all work though.
But slide radio fridge furnace and lights don’t So something is definitely tripped blown.

[aceinspp]

Friend of mine had similar issue after bringing out of storage found out converter bad changed out all worked fine. Later RJD

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

“ We have no battery disconnect switch.”

Basically every RV has a battery on off switch. So, I’ll just ask it. Is your battery on/off switch turned on?

It looks like you have a pass-thru storage compartment immediately behind the hitch. If so, it may be in there.

Sorry but not all campers have a battery disconnect switch. We have owned several campers since 1985 and NEVER had a camper with a battery disconnect switch.

Good luck to the OP surprises me that the slide will not open when hooked to the tow vehicle so anybody's guess.

[Joe M.]

Have you checked your battery disconnect switch?

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Joe M.

Have you checked your battery disconnect switch?

They mentioned earlier that they do not have a battery disconnect switch.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by bikendan

You'd be wrong. Many RVs don't have factory battery disconnect switches. I've had three that didn't. Most stick and tin trailers don't have one. Folding trailers don't.



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I didn’t say disconnect switch. This is not a tiny camper or pop-up unit. This is a 21’ travel trailer.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

Sorry but not all campers have a battery disconnect switch. We have owned several campers since 1985 and NEVER had a camper with a battery disconnect switch.

Good luck to the OP surprises me that the slide will not open when hooked to the tow vehicle so anybody's guess.

I didn’t say disconnect switch. I said on/off switch. But apparently some don’t even have that meaning there is no way to turn off the 12V system except removing a battery wire.

Nevertheless, I recommended that OP look in the pass– through storage compartment for a battery on/off switch, as some units have such a switch in the outside compartment immediately behind the battery. I have seen more than one case where owners were quite surprised to learn that there was a battery on/off switch in an outside compartment. Some are pretty well hidden.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

I didn’t say disconnect switch. I said on/off switch.

What's the difference?

I've never heard of a battery on/off switch.

[simiHal]

Originally Posted by ldaven68

Update:
We have changed the 30 amp fuse by the battery
We have tested the battery and it’s charged and works
The power tongue jack works but not the light on it
The awning works
No inside lights work , USB outlets or slide
All regular outlets work and microwave
We don’t have a battery disconnect
We tried hooking up to our truck
We have plugged into shire power
We can’t access our fuse box where converter is located to check fuses or breakers as the slide is in the way
Have no idea how to manually open the slide and have slime to the place where we purchased and they gave us a couple things to look for but didn’t work as mentioned above and this particular person didn’t know how to open the slide manually 🤷*♀️ We have looked for a spot but according to other forums we have to take the motor off as it’s Lippert slide
So I think we will have to make an appointment and hopefully it’s nothing major. The earliest appointment they had was May 9th. What a silly setup with the fuse box and slide.

If anyone else has any ideas that would be great. But thx for trying.

I can almost guarantee that the issue is a bad fuse or loose wire(s) at the secondary fuse attached to the frame in the underbelly adjacent to battery. I’ve seen where the 6 guage leaving the battery connects to one fuse that has some 12v components connected plus jumpered to a second fuse that has other components on it. My guess is the second fuse is the issue since some components work and others don’t.
This silly cheap way of jumpering 12v components with basically no access is the main reason I moved these fuses into my storage pass through with all individual component fuses when I added my LiFePo battery & inverter in that same location.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

What's the difference?

I've never heard of a battery on/off switch.

Big difference, actually. An on/off switch turns off the 12V system, but does not disconnect the battery from the circuit. In most cases, there are some power consumers that continue to draw power from the battery, even when the on/off switch is off. A battery disconnect switch removes the battery from the 12V circuit completely, and no power consumers can draw any power from the battery.

Many RV owners have learned the hard way that an on/off switch does not stop all draws from the battery, and when they return to their unit in storage, they find the battery completely depleted. A battery disconnect switch will prevent depletion of the battery while in storage. This is one of the first hard lessons that many RV owners have to learn.

The attached is what a battery on/off switch looks like, although there are many variations. Sometimes, they are hidden in compartments, although more commonly, they are mounted inside the entry door.

[MNtraveler]

Here is a typical battery disconnect switch, although again, there are many variations of these switches. These are almost always located immediately adjacent to the battery, and usually but not always connected to the negative terminal side.