I've seen a couple of head's-up in this thread:
1) Beware the lack of "ampacity" of using Copper Clad Al CCA wire meant for AUDIO for carrying REAL current!!!. Cu only. Abrasion resistant insulated wire is often available at your local electrical supply company for about a buck a foot, solid OR stranded. (Solid only where install is permanent and not subject to flexing, and in conduit)
2) For the "running AC idea" I would hesitate to run 110v using house wiring under a vehicle chassis or a TT chassis. With no true "earth" ground between it and Inverter, too many chances (wearing thru insulation, rodent damage) for high voltage to get loose and, well, kill somebody. If you wanted to do like I did, DEEP Cycle BATTs and Inverter in TV bed, place in PVC conduit just like you would outdoors following the NEC book with a flex section of welding cable between TT and TV and water-tight junction boxes/hubble plugs. Alaso take note: W/O a true "earth-ground" supplied by shore-power, GFCI outlets in the TT may not work properly. Be sure to test them.
3) When I got a super deal on 6-AWG Black conductor for 50-amps AC,,, like 38 cents a foot at Rexal Electric contractor supply vs 86 cents a foot at Lowes, I use 3M tape wrapped around the wire at the ends to ID the role of the wire - whether a hot leg (Red) or neutral (white). If 220v, obviously blk can stay blk...
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