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Old 08-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #1
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Strange Water Pump Issue

While diagnosing a quick battery drain issue, I checked the amp draw on each of the fuses. This is the strange part.

* pump switch off 0
* pump switch on .09 - I know, there is a light on the circuit
* pump switch on and water running - 4.25
* pump switch on water stopped and pump stopped, but switch on - 6.23

I repeated this process several times. Anyone have an idea what would cause this. No wonder my battery drained quickly.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:58 PM   #2
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I don't understand what you are saying. Other than the current draw, what is the difference between state 2 and state 4? It sounds like both cases are with the switch on and no water being pumped.

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Old 08-10-2013, 04:09 PM   #3
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It is the order. Before pumping water the current is low. After pumping water while the water is not running the current is even higher than while the pump is running
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:53 PM   #4
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It sounds as if the pressure sensing switch at the pump head is not turning off power to the pump. That would cause it to continue to try to pump, even when all the taps were closed. It is inexpensive and easy to replace.

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Old 08-10-2013, 04:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedscastle View Post
It is the order. Before pumping water the current is low. After pumping water while the water is not running the current is even higher than while the pump is running
Looks to me like the pump is in a "stall". Reaches pressure and mechanically stopped. Pressure switch is not opening power to pump?
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:55 PM   #6
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It continues to work after using it, but drains ower
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:56 PM   #7
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Sorry, hit the button too soon.


It continues to work, but drains power even though pump is not working. 6 amps seems like a lot when the pump isn't pumping
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:15 PM   #8
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Sorry, hit the button too soon.


It continues to work, but drains power even though pump is not working. 6 amps seems like a lot when the pump isn't pumping
Agreed, both Joel and I posted together the pump is reaching pressure but the power doesn't get cut off. Seems the pump is still powered but stops due to mechanical forces (pressure). Easy fix, change out the pump. One way to confirm is to listen carefully to the pump, it should be moaning when stalled like that.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:48 PM   #9
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This sounds like problem with my water pump. It seems to moan and groan just prior to shutoff. Replaced three 10a fuses which blew at the end of a moan and groan cycle. Lol. The filter on pump is clear and in and outlet pipes clear so uncertain if pump stalling from blockage or stalled due to faulty pressure switch. How expensive for new switch?
Currently in Algonquin park w/o access to RV center
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rschoono289
This sounds like problem with my water pump. It seems to moan and groan just prior to shutoff. Replaced three 10a fuses which blew at the end of a moan and groan cycle. Lol. The filter on pump is clear and in and outlet pipes clear so uncertain if pump stalling from blockage or stalled due to faulty pressure switch. How expensive for new switch?
Currently in Algonquin park w/o access to RV center
Alot less than complete pump, if you can to match exactly.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #11
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At least mine is under warranty
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:00 PM   #12
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OK. It has been quite a while since I first report this issue and the dealer has done nothing. Since it was intermittent, they could not duplicate it. When I had in in the fall, I don't think they tried. Last week I brought it armed with a video. Of course it was like pulling teeth to get anyone to watch.

Finally, the called and said that there were no problems and the only time they could duplicate the issue was when it was plugged in and attributed the 6.5 am draw to the trailer being plugged in and the inverter was draining power. ????? They basically laughed at me and said that there was nothing they could do except sell me a pair of 6v batteries.

Last weekend, the same thing happened and zapped the battery. This time, I had a hard time getting it to stop drawing 6v, maybe due to the low battery charge at the time.

Anyway, Yesterday I sent an message to the Wildcat Maxx Facebook page and customer service at Sureflo stating what I had been told on this thread. Sureflo wrote back and recommended adjusting the pressure back 1/4 turn and sent a diagram on what to do. The pump already sounds different when turning off. We'll see what happens when I take it out.

So much for warranty service at the dealer.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:11 AM   #13
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Just saw this thread. I am in complete agreement that you most likely have a pressure cut out switch problem; but there could also be an issue with the motor itself.

Even if the cut out switch is bad, the pump should continue to run in a "no flow" condition. There are 3 rotor pumps in the plastic "head" and there is a check valve in front of each one. (See parts exploded view attached).

Normally, once the back pressure in the lines reaches the cut out switch pressure, the switch removes power from the motor, the rotors stop turning, the check valves slam shut and pressure is held in the lines.

If the rotors are binding (debris in the rotor housing?), as the back pressure in the lines starts to build, it perhaps is slowing the pump rotors to the point where they just stop turning before cut out pressure is reached.

Turning back the pressure switch to the point where the motor actually stops before the rotors bind up might only be curing the symptom and not the disease.

I would ask them to ship out a rebuild kit or new pump.
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File Type: pdf Classic Pump - pds-2088-422-144_444_.pdf (192.4 KB, 23 views)
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #14
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Thanks for your ideas. We'll if their idea works. I'm just thrilled that they wrote back so quickly after the dealer basically ignored me.

---

Thanks for the email. Application Engineering that if you are drawing 6.5 amps while the faucets are closed that it may be because the pump is not shutting off due to the pressure shut-off being higher than the maximum by-pass. Please see the attachment and adjust the pressure adjustment counter-clockwise in 1/4 turn increments
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedscastle View Post
Herk
Thanks for your ideas. We'll if their idea works. I'm just thrilled that they wrote back so quickly after the dealer basically ignored me.

---

Thanks for the email. Application Engineering that if you are drawing 6.5 amps while the faucets are closed that it may be because the pump is not shutting off due to the pressure shut-off being higher than the maximum by-pass. Please see the attachment and adjust the pressure adjustment counter-clockwise in 1/4 turn increments
That factory advice is interesting, who'd ever think the pump has a relief valve bypass (return) Can you post the attachment? Tks
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:19 PM   #16
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Here is the attachment that Sureflo sent.
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File Type: pdf 4008 4008 Pressure bypass adjustment procedure (3).pdf (40.6 KB, 53 views)
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:46 PM   #17
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Here is the attachment that Sureflo sent.
That answered the question, most RV's are fitted with a 3 lobe unit with suction strainer and discharge check valve/with auto cutoff. The 4008 Revolution is a newer 4 lobe higher capacity pump with pressure controls built In, if set right! Tks!
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:21 PM   #18
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That is a pretty cool pump all right.
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