Surge Protection Gizmo

[crasher]

I've been thinking of getting one of these kind of things. Seems pricey for what it is.

Is this "the one" to get? Does it really matter which one?

TRC 30 Amp Portable RV Surge Guard with LCD Display : Amazon.com : Automotive

Is there better? Or is there a cheaper one that is just as good?

From reading online, this one does polarity check and protects against dips, which I assume are a big problem in older parks.

[TURBS]

It's only as expensive as all your electronics in your camper.
300.00 now or thousands later .....
You decide !

:cheers:

Turbs

[crasher]

But is the price based on that, or is there some kind of expensive hardware inside? There are $89 ones from the same company.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

But is the price based on that, or is there some kind of expensive hardware inside? There are $89 ones from the same company.

Here are the differences between the products

Surge Guard® Product Comparison Charts | Technology Research Corporation

[B47]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

I've been thinking of getting one of these kind of things. Seems pricey for what it is.

Is this "the one" to get? Does it really matter which one?

TRC 30 Amp Portable RV Surge Guard with LCD Display : Amazon.com : Automotive

Is there better? Or is there a cheaper one that is just as good?

From reading online, this one does polarity check and protects against dips, which I assume are a big problem in older parks.

I have the Surge Guard 50 amp model and I would suggest you purchase the 30 amp model if you are worried about frying the electronics in your RV.

Yes it does everything it claims to do. My 50 amp model is a bit heavy, but that is the only downside about it IMO.

[crasher]

How do you keep someone from swiping it?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

How do you keep someone from swiping it?

They make a locking hasp for it, but IMHO you would need to run a cable to lock it to something. Just locking the surge guard to the trailer power cord wouldn't work in my case, as they could just make off with both parts since my power cord can be easily disconnected from my trailer.

http://www.trci.net/media/44637/lock...heet_r8-10.pdf

If you are worried about thieves, you may want to opt for the hardwired version, that goes inside your camper.

[speters53]

Originally Posted by B47

I have the Surge Guard 50 amp model and I would suggest you purchase the 30 amp model if you are worried about frying the electronics in your RV.

Yes it does everything it claims to do. My 50 amp model is a bit heavy, but that is the only downside about it IMO.

bought one myself after reading about things on this site, would rather sleep well at night in my trailer instead of frying my stuff, peace of mind is well worth the price as some have stated. I am a rookie to this stuff and I am afraid of screwing things up so i have read a ton of threads about things on this site, a vast treasure trove of good information. hope this helps.

[speters53]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

How do you keep someone from swiping it?

i will have to take pictures of the cable i made to secure my cord and surge guard together with a lock around the power pole. will it keep the thief from stealing it, probably not, but it will keep the honest person honest. will upload first of next week.

[Earth Station]

We don't plug ours in without the surge protector!!! Even when at home! Seems a little bit of money for piece of mind --knowing all the electronics are safe!

[Terier]

Originally Posted by Earth Station

We don't plug ours in without the surge protector!!! Even when at home! Seems a little bit of money for piece of mind --knowing all the electronics are safe!

Agree with avoiding plugging in without it. On my last outing I wasn't at peace until the SP was plugged in. It was worth the 3+ hr round trip commute to CW to exchange the 50 amp unit for the 30 amp unit. The weekend before my trip CW messed gave me the wrong unit and I didn't catch it until setting up camp at dusk.

[sail2liv]

Most time when you let the pedistal cover down just put padlock in it...other times use the locking device...but you entire cable is then
vunerable to theft along with protector....if they want it they will get
it, but you make it pia to get they may go somewhere else.....

[crasher]

I'm thinking most thieves want the copper cord and not really the device. They'll just cut it off if they can get away with it.

Another question - if you buy the 50amp device, can you still use it with a 30amp adapter?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

I'm thinking most thieves want the copper cord and not really the device. They'll just cut it off if they can get away with it.

Another question - if you buy the 50amp device, can you still use it with a 30amp adapter?

Here is my view.

If you buy the 50 amp device, beyond the initial additional cost, you will need adapters for each end.

A 30 amp female to 50 amp male going in and a 50 amp female to 30 amp male going to the pedestal (in cases where a 50 amp socket is not available).

It could not be economically hard wired into your camper since only 1/2 of the board would ever be used.

If you plan on hard wiring it (for theft or convenience) get a 30 amp unit.
If you plan on dangling it from the box, I would still get a 30 amp one, but a 50 would "work" with adapters if you expect to upgrade to a 50 amp service camper in the near future.

If you are not planning on doing that SOON, I would stick with a 30 because the internals are upgraded and updated by the manufacturers all the time as miniaturization and circuit design gets more efficient. You could sell your old 30 with the camper and get a new 50 when you buy the new camper.

[crasher]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Here is my view.

If you buy the 50 amp device, beyond the initial additional cost, you will need adapters for each end.

A 30 amp female to 50 amp male going in and a 50 amp female to 30 amp male going to the pedestal (in cases where a 50 amp socket is not available).

It could not be economically hard wired into your camper since only 1/2 of the board would ever be used.

If you plan on hard wiring it (for theft or convenience) get a 30 amp unit.
If you plan on dangling it from the box, I would still get a 30 amp one, but a 50 would "work" with adapters if you expect to upgrade to a 50 amp service camper in the near future.

If you are not planning on doing that SOON, I would stick with a 30 because the internals are upgraded and updated by the manufacturers all the time as miniaturization and circuit design gets more efficient. You could sell your old 30 with the camper and get a new 50 when you buy the new camper.

Thanks for that info. Actually, I was curious if you had a 50 amp RV, but the campground you are staying at only has 30amp. Would the adapter work in that case and still have the device provide all the protections you need.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

Would the adapter work in that case and still have the device provide all the protections you need.

Yes. The surge only device just protects you from over/under voltage (by shutting off power) and spikes. The 50 amp (two circuit) unit is basically two single units rated for 50 amps each (one for each leg) in the same package with some economy of scale design. Using the adapters allows you to use just 1/2 of the available circuits.

NOTE: just because the unit is RATED at 50 amps, does not mean it will provide 50 amps from a 30 amp pedestal socket. You most likely know that but some readers might not.

[HemiCab]

Theft was a worry for me as well. I went to HD and purchased a pack of 4 locks with same key & 10 ft chain. Use the 4 locks around the power cords, protector, power post, & TT frame. Will it stop a thief, no, but it takes me less time to put the locks on than it would for him to cut all the cords or chains to take them.

In the pic you can see the lock around protector and around post, not in the pic is where I put lock around cord close to TT and lock the chain around frame.

HC

[Crusader]

Originally Posted by HemiCab

Theft was a worry for me as well. I went to HD and purchased a pack of 4 locks with same key & 10 ft chain. Use the 4 locks around the power cords, protector, power post, & TT frame. Will it stop a thief, no, but it takes me less time to put the locks on than it would for him to cut all the cords or chains to take them.

In the pic you can see the lock around protector and around post, not in the pic is where I put lock around cord close to TT and lock the chain around frame.

HC

Its a sad world, that camping has come to this.............

[B47]

Originally Posted by Crusader

Its a sad world, that camping has come to this.............

Amen to that. We don't camp as much as some of you do and we have not experiened or heard of any stolen SP's or anything else when talking to our CG neighbors, but it is a sad fact of life today.

[SaskCampers]

Originally Posted by HemiCab

Theft was a worry for me as well. I went to HD and purchased a pack of 4 locks with same key & 10 ft chain. Use the 4 locks around the power cords, protector, power post, & TT frame. Will it stop a thief, no, but it takes me less time to put the locks on than it would for him to cut all the cords or chains to take them.

In the pic you can see the lock around protector and around post, not in the pic is where I put lock around cord close to TT and lock the chain around frame.

HC

That is why I put in a hardwire PI EMS HW30. Not to be an ***** but even the smallest bolt cutters will take those chains in your pic out in seconds. Get some good quality 3/8" grade 70 or better logging chain from a farm supply store, costs abit more but worth it. That is how I chain my Honda genny in the box of my truck