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Old 04-30-2013, 06:07 PM   #61
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Albeit mines 30 amp and not under a bed.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:12 PM   #62
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Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?

My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:18 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?

My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
This is certainly the way to go.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:44 PM   #64
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Is this possible??? We purchased a Progressive Industries 50 Amp Hardwired Integrated Display EMS-LCHW50C, we asked Camping World to install..... the following is from Camping World...."Since the surge protector has a display, it has to be mounted in a place where you can see it. If we mount it by the transfer switch, it will be hidden behind a wall and you will have zero access. So the tech needs to run wire from the transfer switch, to a place where it would be accessible to the human eye and not hidden away. The cost to install it is $423.00. We did not want to proceed unless we had authorization from you. Is this possible?????
That's a lot of $$$$ for an install?????
I installed mine below my transfer switch and as you can se ethe panel is still visiable from the open compartment.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:03 PM   #65
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Iggy, nice setup.
I just got my EMS in the mail last week from Tweetys. I looked at the compartment in my 337F and there's a bunch of relocating to do before the PI 50 will fit in there. FR spread stuff out so I have to move the boxes around.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:26 PM   #66
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Bogey, not knowing what unit you have, that does seem a bit excessive. Perhaps you could ask a member in your area to help you install it? If you're in or near NE Ohio, I'd be glad to.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:31 PM   #67
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Bogey, not knowing what unit you have, that does seem a bit excessive. Perhaps you could ask a member in your area to help you install it? If you're in or near NE Ohio, I'd be glad to.
We have a 2013 silverback 29re. CW said they have to install a whole new 50 amp service to accommodate?????... I'm trying to get the remote shipped overnight..we leave on a trip 5/3.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:32 PM   #68
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Albeit mines 30 amp and not under a bed.
Thank you, ok to share photos with camping world??
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:33 PM   #69
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Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?

My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
Trying to get one shipped to CW...can't order from CW takes 2 weeks.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:33 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post

I installed mine below my transfer switch and as you can se ethe panel is still visiable from the open compartment.
Can I share pictures with camping world??
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:58 PM   #71
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Thank you, ok to share photos with camping world??
Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.

It really isn't rocket science my friend.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #72
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Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.

It really isn't rocket science my friend.
Purchased the remote and CW will install both for $240. So glad to be done with this thanks everyone!!
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:43 AM   #73
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I am in the process of installing the Progressive Industries 50amp hard-wired unit into my Coachman Mirada 35ds. The #6 wire is difficult to work with...getting the stranded wire into the posts to screw them down is almost impossible. I'm wondering what electricians do to make that job easier i.e. do they cut off a number of strands to make the full wire fit more easily? I'm told DON'T CUT STRANDS Regardless, the T1-T3 side is done (the side on the transfer box), but I need to make sure the sensors are on the wires properly i.e. the arrow on the sensor side is on the side of the T1 and T3 terminals. These sensors(doughnuts over the wires) don't make the job any easier.
From everything I've read, the Progressive Industries units are well-made equipment, and their customer support is top notch.
I'm thinking I'll take off the jumper to make the delay (for air conditioning) from 15 seconds (with the jumper on) to 136 seconds (with the jumper off) so I don't need to worry whether my air conditioner has a delay or not. It's only a minute or two delay which I can live with. Anyone see any issues with that thinking?
I continue today with attaching the plug side of the wire to the PI box. That should go a lot easier since I'm not dealing with any doughnuts (sensors) over the wires.
I've received some advice on tinning the wire before trying to insert into terminal. Instructions do specifically state no soldering, and I've read about problems with tinning e.g. insulation melt. Probably issues with techniques, but I don't do a lot of soldering, so would avoid the tinning.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:39 AM   #74
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They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:56 AM   #75
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Right. Do not cut strands. The terminal holes are plenty big enough for the whole wire. Yes, it's difficult.

BTW, the arrows are not "pointing" to the terminals (I know the instructions are clear as mud). It's just that the side that has the arrow on it is supposed to be next to the terminals.

I agree that the longer delay is safer than the shorter one and is still hardly long enough to notice.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:33 AM   #76
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Cutting strands at the point of connection will also cause dramatic heat increase on the wires. If you are having that much trouble connecting the wires, there is probably not enough of the outer cord cut back. You should have at least 4 - 5 inches of wire to work with, then expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire to put into the terminals.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #77
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I bought a piece of high strand 4-6, which is very flexible and would twist together very tightly with little effort. It was more expensive, but at the time I wasn't sure how much room I had to maneuver. If you're not efficient in tinning, I would not recommend, it could make it harder for you.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:01 PM   #78
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I used a short length of SOOW 6/4 between the SP and the panel. The conductors are made up of very fine copper strands.

Easy to work with, but be careful of loose strands when you insert it.

Also, make sure that the set screw is all the way out, as it will make it difficult to get the entire conductor inserted if it's not.

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Old 05-18-2013, 06:13 PM   #79
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They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
X2 tinning...just did some a week or so ago. twist them as tight as you can, but not to breaking point, and tin. They will then fit nicely.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:41 PM   #80
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Curse a lot, it seemed to help me
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