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04-30-2013, 06:07 PM
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#61
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Albeit mines 30 amp and not under a bed.
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04-30-2013, 06:12 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?
My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
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04-30-2013, 07:18 PM
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#63
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706
Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?
My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
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This is certainly the way to go.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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04-30-2013, 07:44 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogey3025
Is this possible??? We purchased a Progressive Industries 50 Amp Hardwired Integrated Display EMS-LCHW50C, we asked Camping World to install..... the following is from Camping World...."Since the surge protector has a display, it has to be mounted in a place where you can see it. If we mount it by the transfer switch, it will be hidden behind a wall and you will have zero access. So the tech needs to run wire from the transfer switch, to a place where it would be accessible to the human eye and not hidden away. The cost to install it is $423.00. We did not want to proceed unless we had authorization from you. Is this possible?????
That's a lot of $$$$ for an install?????
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I installed mine below my transfer switch and as you can se ethe panel is still visiable from the open compartment.
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04-30-2013, 08:03 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
Posts: 592
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Iggy, nice setup.
I just got my EMS in the mail last week from Tweetys. I looked at the compartment in my 337F and there's a bunch of relocating to do before the PI 50 will fit in there. FR spread stuff out so I have to move the boxes around.
__________________
John & Susan, Olivia the dachshund
2011 Georgetown 337DS
2003 Dodge Dakota
Hampton Roads VA
2016 174 Days camping, 2017 66 days 2018 24 days 2019 48 days 2020 25 days 2021 6
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04-30-2013, 08:26 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 158
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Bogey, not knowing what unit you have, that does seem a bit excessive. Perhaps you could ask a member in your area to help you install it? If you're in or near NE Ohio, I'd be glad to.
__________________
2012 Ram 2500 Laramie Limited CCLB CTD
2014 Columbus 320RS
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04-30-2013, 08:31 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treaves
Bogey, not knowing what unit you have, that does seem a bit excessive. Perhaps you could ask a member in your area to help you install it? If you're in or near NE Ohio, I'd be glad to.
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We have a 2013 silverback 29re. CW said they have to install a whole new 50 amp service to accommodate?????... I'm trying to get the remote shipped overnight..we leave on a trip 5/3.
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04-30-2013, 08:32 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Albeit mines 30 amp and not under a bed.
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Thank you, ok to share photos with camping world??
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04-30-2013, 08:33 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706
Given that you bought the "integrated display" unit, I agree with CW that it has to be mounted in a visible place. I can't judge whether or not that price is reasonable for what they're having to do. How much would they want to install the EMS-HW50C?
My guess is that you'd be better off to use the one with the remote display, for hopefully a cheaper install. (They should at least let you return the LCHW for the HW.)
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Trying to get one shipped to CW...can't order from CW takes 2 weeks.
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04-30-2013, 08:33 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
I installed mine below my transfer switch and as you can se ethe panel is still visiable from the open compartment.
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Can I share pictures with camping world??
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04-30-2013, 10:58 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogey3025
Thank you, ok to share photos with camping world??
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Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.
It really isn't rocket science my friend.
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05-01-2013, 06:13 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.
It really isn't rocket science my friend.
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Purchased the remote and CW will install both for $240. So glad to be done with this thanks everyone!!
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05-18-2013, 06:43 AM
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#73
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
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I am in the process of installing the Progressive Industries 50amp hard-wired unit into my Coachman Mirada 35ds. The #6 wire is difficult to work with...getting the stranded wire into the posts to screw them down is almost impossible. I'm wondering what electricians do to make that job easier i.e. do they cut off a number of strands to make the full wire fit more easily? I'm told DON'T CUT STRANDS Regardless, the T1-T3 side is done (the side on the transfer box), but I need to make sure the sensors are on the wires properly i.e. the arrow on the sensor side is on the side of the T1 and T3 terminals. These sensors(doughnuts over the wires) don't make the job any easier.
From everything I've read, the Progressive Industries units are well-made equipment, and their customer support is top notch.
I'm thinking I'll take off the jumper to make the delay (for air conditioning) from 15 seconds (with the jumper on) to 136 seconds (with the jumper off) so I don't need to worry whether my air conditioner has a delay or not. It's only a minute or two delay which I can live with. Anyone see any issues with that thinking?
I continue today with attaching the plug side of the wire to the PI box. That should go a lot easier since I'm not dealing with any doughnuts (sensors) over the wires.
I've received some advice on tinning the wire before trying to insert into terminal. Instructions do specifically state no soldering, and I've read about problems with tinning e.g. insulation melt. Probably issues with techniques, but I don't do a lot of soldering, so would avoid the tinning.
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05-18-2013, 07:39 AM
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#74
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 158
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They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
__________________
2012 Ram 2500 Laramie Limited CCLB CTD
2014 Columbus 320RS
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05-18-2013, 07:56 AM
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#75
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Right. Do not cut strands. The terminal holes are plenty big enough for the whole wire. Yes, it's difficult.
BTW, the arrows are not "pointing" to the terminals (I know the instructions are clear as mud). It's just that the side that has the arrow on it is supposed to be next to the terminals.
I agree that the longer delay is safer than the shorter one and is still hardly long enough to notice.
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05-18-2013, 08:33 AM
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#76
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 136
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Cutting strands at the point of connection will also cause dramatic heat increase on the wires. If you are having that much trouble connecting the wires, there is probably not enough of the outer cord cut back. You should have at least 4 - 5 inches of wire to work with, then expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire to put into the terminals.
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05-18-2013, 05:22 PM
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#77
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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I bought a piece of high strand 4-6, which is very flexible and would twist together very tightly with little effort. It was more expensive, but at the time I wasn't sure how much room I had to maneuver. If you're not efficient in tinning, I would not recommend, it could make it harder for you.
__________________
2016 Georgetown 364TS
2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon toad
Nights Camped 2019 - 17
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05-18-2013, 06:01 PM
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#78
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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I used a short length of SOOW 6/4 between the SP and the panel. The conductors are made up of very fine copper strands.
Easy to work with, but be careful of loose strands when you insert it.
Also, make sure that the set screw is all the way out, as it will make it difficult to get the entire conductor inserted if it's not.
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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05-18-2013, 06:13 PM
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#79
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Biloxi, Ms
Posts: 705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treaves
They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
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X2 tinning...just did some a week or so ago. twist them as tight as you can, but not to breaking point, and tin. They will then fit nicely.
__________________
Wayne & Susan Biloxi,Ms
2012 GeorgeTown 351DS...2015 Ford Focus/Brake Buddy
FROG Member
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05-18-2013, 06:41 PM
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#80
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Curse a lot, it seemed to help me
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2017 Fuse 23T
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