Think my new camper came with DOA battery - options?

[brianb]

When I took delivery of my new camper, I was surprised to see the battery hooked up but not so surprised to see it was dead. Hoping it wasn't too bad, I took it out and set it up on my bench charger. It took forever to indicate a full charge but eventually did. I reinstalled the battery in the camper, but it seems to barely hold a charge. While the meter will say "full" it will die after just modest use after a few minutes. (some lights and the water pump).

Should I raise a stink with my dealer (who is another state)? Or is this a warranty item? Anyone have something similar? Is there some way to revive these batteries? I know repeatedly discharging deep cell batteries below 10.5 volts will damage them.

Thanks for any help...

[momtovn]

good question, cant wait for someone to respond!!

[DAISY BOYKIN]

Is it worth the drive to another state? Maybe you can get warranty satisfaction from the battery company local. Or just bite the bullet, go to your local "WALLY-WORLD", purchase their best marine battery (MAXX BATTERY). Rated by consumers guide as one of the better batteries !
Maybe you can get the dealer to purchase you a new battery local to you?

Or you can purchase the battery, pay for it , get dealer to reimburse you. After you raise a STINK, but be nice about it.

[Herk7769]

If the battery is a trailer "house" battery, a "Marine" battery may not be the best choice for you. Marine batteries are "Dual Purpose" batteries used to start cranky marine engines and have high CCA numbers (release a lot of amps in a short period of time - hundreds of amps within minutes) and at the same time try to hold on to their amps for as long as possible (Amp Hours). These two different purposes require radically different internal construction.

Marine batteries give you the WORST of both worlds. Not so hot cranking, and not so hot Deep Discharge. You can buy MUCH better starting batteries for half the price if that is what you want.

What a camper needs (Not motor home - they do need both types) is DEEP DISCHARGE only. These batteries, like the ones made by TROJAN and others, have thick plates that release their stored charge slowly (Like 50-60 amps over hours). They typically do not even LIST cranking amps.

[SoMoney]

I'd definitely call the dealer that sold you the trailer! WallyWorld gives free battery inspection with print out you can fax or scan/email to them as proof of bad battery.

Question for Lou on a motor home needing "both types?" Do you mean one for the Engine and a set for the house? Or do both sets need to be dual purpose (both types)?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SoMoney

Question for Lou on a motor home needing "both types?" Do you mean one for the Engine and a set for the house? Or do both sets need to be dual purpose (both types)?

As I understand how it works (I could be wrong; so if I read these drawings wrong chime in); it depends on how your motor home is wired. The MH type I was referring to has a dedicated "engine or Chassis" battery for starting the motor and a seperate house bank (1 or 2 DC batteries) with charging managed by the battery control center (BCC). The BCC uses the Alternator of the engine and/or the on board generator to keep everything charged. In this case use a "starting" battery for the engine and Deep Discharge for the house (just like a TV with towed camper).

The other type "Gangs" the two batteries with an interconnect relay during starting and in that case you would need Dual Purpose batteries in both services.