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04-12-2020, 02:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Clovis CA
Posts: 566
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Transfer switch issue
We have a 2014 Georgetown 378XL and when on shore power all is good. When I start the generator the transfer switch will not pull in on the generator side. I have tested power to the switch when the generator is running and I'm seeing 116 volts to the switch, and no codes are showing on the generator, so I figure all is good there. With both sources of power disconnected, the shore power side of the switch can be "pushed in", the generator side can not. It only goes about a 1/4 of the distance the shore side will when pushed. I suspect that the transfer switch has gone belly up, but thought I would post to see if someone had information on something I may be missing.
__________________
2014 Georgetown 378 XL
2022 Aprilia Tuareg
2005 Jeep Wrangler "Toad"
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04-12-2020, 03:00 PM
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#2
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,129
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I suspect Iggy might be along shortly.
He knows Georgetown units.....especially the 378XL he has.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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04-18-2020, 07:34 AM
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#3
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2013 Georgetown XL 377
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 50
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I have a 2013 Georgetown 377XL, had a severe storm late last year. My rig is plugged into shore power when not on the road. The storm caused a brown out (for 3 days) that eventually fried my converter and transfere switch. I was not home when this happened nor did I install my surge protector. (Because I loaned it out) I found this out when I opened my door and the steps didn’t deploy. Batteries were dead. I went to electrical bay and I can smell the burning insulation coming from transfere switch. So to be on the safe side I ordered a new transfere switch and converter and will replace soon. Can someone tell me if this is the right thing to do. I did start the generator but Friday not flip the main breaker on at the time because I started smelling the electrical burning again. Anyone have any suggestions before I start replacing the transfere switch and converter.?
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04-18-2020, 07:41 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,290
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first, I would make sure all the wires/connections are absolutely TIGHT within the ATS... a loose wire or connection can create interesting situations that are hard to diagnose otherwise...
second, turn off shore power, or remove the shore power cable, before testing the generators output to the ATS, just in case that is part of the equation. While the ATS is designed to 'default' to the Generator's output, shore power could be a factor in this situation, for whatever reason...
__________________
The Turners...
'07 Rockwood Signature Ultralight...
two Campers and two Electric cars : )
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04-18-2020, 11:47 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formerFR
While the ATS is designed to 'default' to the Generator's output, shore power could be a factor in this situation, for whatever reason...
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The ATS defaults to the shore power input. Genny input has priority and will override this input and the ATS will switch to the Genny. When Genny shuts down the ATS will switch back to the shore power contacts.
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04-18-2020, 11:54 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,290
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I probably 'meant' to mean that, though I worded it incorrectly - your usage of 'Priority' and 'Default' are better descriptions of what is going on...
so, the Generator has PRIORITY when it is running, and it's breaker is ON, providing power to the ATS
Shore Power, on the other hand, if plugged in, and ON, 'waits' until the Generator is shut off, or it's breaker is tripped, etc... this is why you can start your Generator while you are plugged into shore power and the generator will still provide power, but it then reverts back to Shore Power afterwards.
What happens, though, when you have NO external Generator or Shore Power?
Nothing. The ATS is then not in play and has no use. If you have an INVERTER, it will simply provide power DIRECTLY to the RV's Main Panel - no ATS needed, as it has it's own 'internal' relay to accomplish the same.
__________________
The Turners...
'07 Rockwood Signature Ultralight...
two Campers and two Electric cars : )
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04-18-2020, 08:18 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Clovis CA
Posts: 566
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I replaced the transfer switch this evening, all is good again! I left the door off the panel to confirm that the relays were dropping out correctly, which they did. As I mentioned in my first post, mine was pretty easy to diagnose. The generator, when running was providing power (116 volts) to the input side of it's relay, but the relay was not drawing in. With shore and generator power off I could push in the relay on the shore power side about 5/8 inch, but was only able to push the generator side about an 1/8 inch in. Figuring both relays are physically the same and one didn't move like the other, I figured the relay was toast. Apparently I was correct!
__________________
2014 Georgetown 378 XL
2022 Aprilia Tuareg
2005 Jeep Wrangler "Toad"
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