True 12v deep cycle recommendations ?

CrifasiRF · 07-14-2014, 08:23 PM

I have three questions:

1) Can someone recommend a true deep cycle 12v battery?

2) What battery usually comes with a Clipper 17FQ? (No access to myTT right now)

3) Is it worth removing the original battery and replacing it or can I be successful pairing it with a new similar battery in a dual battery setup? My TT is new this season.

Kaadk · 07-14-2014, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrifasiRF

I have three questions:

1) Can someone recommend a true deep cycle 12v battery?

When I thought I toasted mine, I was looking to replace it with a Trojan 24TMX, based on recommendations both here (http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...r-55216-6.html) and from the Trojan dealer. Since mine recovered, I never did bother replacing it so I can't provide any real world experience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrifasiRF

2) What battery usually comes with a Clipper 17FQ? (No access to myTT right now)

Whatever the dealer threw in there. I don't believe the factory supplies them. Mine was an ACDelco dual purpose deep cycle/marine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrifasiRF

3) Is it worth removing the original battery and replacing it or can I be successful pairing it with a new similar battery in a dual battery setup? My TT is new this season.

Everything I've read on this site says they should match. So, replace both if your looking to go with 2 batteries. Of course, if you're looking to go with 2 batteries, the most common reason is for boondocking (dry camping). If that's your goal, the recommendation seems to be get 2 6v Golf Cart deep cycle batteries wired in series for the the greater AH capacity. There's tonnes of information in these forums on how to setup a rig for boondocking, I'm sure those that do will be willing to help.

Triguy · 07-14-2014, 09:15 PM

1) There are a number of good companies. I like Trojan batteries. They make good 6V and 12V batteries for RV/Marine and Golf Carts. I have two T-145 6-volts that work well for my setup.

2) I don't know that.

3) If trying to pair an existing 12 volt with a new 12 volt battery you have to match the type, size and age of your existing battery (and brand to be safe). If your battery is new and relatively lightly used, its fine to match with a second similar battery. If its an older battery (check the mfg for how to read the date code for your battery) than I would not advise connecting them for a number of reasons.

Can I ask what your goals are in replacing your battery? Most deep cycles are bought to provide more amp hours while dry camping, but some people buy them just because they have a longer lifespan than the typical Group 24 marine battery.

If you are looking to increase your amp hours, you have two routes: Deep cycle 12 volt (one or more batteries connected in parallel) or deep cycle 6-volt (two batteries connected in series).

Either way, your best bet is to first match your planned usage with the battery. This is because good deep cycle batteries are expensive (in some cases; ludicrously expensive) and you want as much battery as you need but not too much so that you don't overpay. Also, true deep cycle batteries are heavy and much larger than the typical marine group 24/27. Make sure that they will fit on your trailer tongue or battery compartment.

CrifasiRF · 07-15-2014, 07:37 AM

Triguy,
The basic plan is to install two batteries with an A,B, A+B switch and over/under voltage monitor/switch. That way I can use them together for extra amperage or separatley if needed. I know that would not be possible with two 6v batteries. The under voltage monitoring is to prevent discharging them too deeply. Overvoltage protection to monitor charging too fast. Working on solar panels as well.
The reason for the deep cycle idea is use off the grid. Thanks for the reminder about size.

Bob

f5moab · 07-15-2014, 08:28 AM

I've used Deka deep cycle batteries. Just make sure the code is DC, they also make a dual purpose which has a code of DP.

Triguy · 07-15-2014, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrifasiRF

Triguy,
The basic plan is to install two batteries with an A,B, A+B switch and over/under voltage monitor/switch. That way I can use them together for extra amperage or separatley if needed. I know that would not be possible with two 6v batteries. The under voltage monitoring is to prevent discharging them too deeply. Overvoltage protection to monitor charging too fast. Working on solar panels as well.
The reason for the deep cycle idea is use off the grid. Thanks for the reminder about size.

Bob

12-volt make sense for your plans. Now, the question is how big and that relates to your daily usage/needs and period of time and ability to recharge effectively through your solar panels or a generator.

I'm most familiar with the Trojan brand as I find its easiest to place my trust there rather than try to compare all brands. Having said that, I have heard good things about the US Battery deep cycles. Some flooded 12-volts from Trojan to consider would be:

130AH -- Trojan 30XHS 12 volt. Two wired in parallel would provide 260Ah.

140AH and 150Ah -- Trojan T-1260 or T-1275 12 volt, respectively. These are sold as golf cart batteries.

With battery disconnects, I like the Blue Sea disconnects. This one allows you to switch between batteries, use both batteries or disconnect all. This works well with two 12-volt batteries or two banks with each bank containing two 6-volts. There are several combinations.

**bikendan** · 07-17-2014, 02:16 AM

batteries on trailers, are installed by the dealer and are not a factory item.
so, it's whatever battery your dealer has in stock. there is no standard.
usually it's the cheapest one they can get you off the lot with.

CrifasiRF · 07-25-2014, 10:09 PM

I just picked up my battery from the Clipper. It's an Exide Marine Dual purpose. It seems like a reasonable fit for my needs at a pretty good price. I have a 120 amp solar charger system and am aiming for a dual battery set up. I have the lockable battery box on the way. I will be doing camping "off the grid" for the most part. Not full blown boon-docking but state parks, no power hookup. The battery is fairly new, two trips very little use.

My question is: Is it worth replacing this battery with two true deep cycle batteries, or should I just match what I have? Then eventually replace them both when the time comes?

**dcheatwood** · 07-26-2014, 06:55 AM

I buy batteries every few years for a bass boat and can tell you there are starting batteris, deep cycle batteries and a combo battery often called a marine battery. For you RV go with deep cycle, not marine.
Several good brands out there. I've had good service with interstate and exide deep cycle batteries.

CrifasiRF · 07-26-2014, 10:02 PM

I agree, but I think I may compromise this time. The existing battery is new or very close to it. To buy a match for it will be about $100. To buy the right batteries will cost several hundred dollars. I know what I have is a dual purpose. Not the best by far. But I've spent quit a bit to put the rest of the pieces in place and need to conserve on the out lay a little. At least for now. I'll do some more research and may spring for true deep cycle on the next set.

onthelake · 07-27-2014, 12:57 AM

I would also suggest changing all your lighting to LED to extend your battery. A single stock bulb is taking 1 to 1.2 amps as compared to .1 for an LED.

The dual light fixtures are 2amps plus.

If you have a 100AH battery, don't go below 50% as a rule, which means only 50AH of capacity.

As suggested, getting an idea of daily usage is key. Also, it's better to combine the batteries if you're installing a 2nd batt, versus running on one, then changing to the 2nd one when needed.

CrifasiRF · 07-27-2014, 05:31 AM

Onthelake,
No argument there. I had decided to do that a while ago. I just wanted to get the major stuff out of the way first. I'm not sure what configuration I'll use but LEDs for sure. My next focus is power hook up protection. I've read about the major malfunctions that can happen. I'd rather not let the smoke out of any of my nice new electrical or electronic systems.
Bob

onthelake · 07-27-2014, 09:20 AM

On the charging topic, try to stay under 10 Amps per battery as a rule.

The best tool for monitoring the battery usage & charge is a product like Xantrex LinkLite battery monitor. You can set the alarms you want and it will keep track of your daily usage. It requires installing a shunt on the neg close to the battery bank.

I've installed these devices in the TT & boat.

I don't take a genny any where, so this is the best mod that has enhanced our off the grid days.

If you install a good quality inverter/charger, you'll get the protection you need.

Current location: Buffalo River State Park in MN

CrifasiRF · 07-27-2014, 04:37 PM

I'm probably going to rely mostly on my solar system for re charging. The controller on that system should handle that well. I have a small 1000 watt generator just in case. The linkLite is something I should consider if I use it for recharging the batteries. Does it have a low voltage cutoff for battery discharge?

camaraderie · 07-27-2014, 07:17 PM

The link lite is fine but pricey. Check out also the Victron and the Trimetric monitors which have all the same functions for about 50 bucks less. If you boondock...one of these 3 is a must!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5VpxK7y-Ro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijo8MwqZ82A

onthelake · 07-27-2014, 07:48 PM

Another one you could look at which has the nicest & largest display is the BM-1 http://www.nasamarine.com/proddetail...=BMN-1_Battery

I didn't go with this product at the time due to the smaller shunt of 100A, which was too small for our loads on the boat. Running an inverter for coffee maker uses almost 90A.

It depends on what you plan on taking. For camping I don't see anything that would require large loads more than 100A since I can fire the LP stove and perk a pot.

You'll find your day much nicer not having to tote a genny around & the fuel.

Current location: Traveling

CrifasiRF · 07-27-2014, 08:47 PM

All three look very nice. However they all seem like overkill for my needs. I was thinking of the batteries, a Blue Sea 9001E e-Series Battery Switch Selector 4 Position, a Blue Sea Systems m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect, then the load. Sound ok?

garbonz · 07-27-2014, 09:05 PM

For the minimalist in all of us, a Fluke loop meter can double as a good multimeter and give you all the information that you need. A 120 watt panel should keep your battery(s) topped up with no problem if you know your general usage. If youseparate your battery into two banks then remember Peukarts rule which means you will not get as much total amperage out of each separately.

Just saying

CrifasiRF · 07-27-2014, 09:18 PM

The trailer is a Clipper 17 FQ. It is set up to operate on one battery and one LP tank. I am doubling up on both so I have built in backup reserve. The switch allowing me to operate with both in parallel is just an added option. I will probably be operating on one battery most of the time. I will probably have one or both charging from the solar panels during the day with the generator as a worst case backup for power and recharging.

camaraderie · 07-27-2014, 09:32 PM

CrifasRF...how will you know when your batteries reach 50% and need to be recharged. How will you know when they are 100% recharged. How will you know if you can make it through the night or day at your present amp usage? How many net amphours did the sun give you today? How much will new batteries cost you vs. a monitor?
Most batteries are murdered...they don't die natural deaths unless you have the tool to maintain them properly. This isn't important so much if you plug in all the time. It is quite important if you boondock. Potter owners understand utility!! This is NOT an option unless you like throwing away batteries WAY prematurely.

Oh...and a Fluke will NOT give you ANY of the information I asked at the top of the post since it cannot measure those parameters. He is right about Mr. Peukert though...and they won't take a charge as fast either.

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