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Old 02-26-2016, 10:47 AM   #61
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I have the same setup.....are you sure you don't want 2 T145 30% more capacity for just a few more dollars.
What is your technique for charging those?
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:19 AM   #62
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What is your technique for charging those?
They are merely bigger and badder than the existing batteries. Your converter or charger will work as is.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:20 AM   #63
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No external charger necessary? Or would that help speed things up?
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:38 AM   #64
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Thinking about a pair of these
Energizer 6 Volt Premium Golf Cart Battery - Group Size GC2
Minutes at 75 AMPS: 122
•20 AMP Hour Capacity: 232
•Reliable Cycling Ability
•Deep Cycle
•Gang Vent Design
•Polypropylene Ribbed Case
•Post Type: UTL
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:56 AM   #65
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Thinking about a pair of these
Energizer 6 Volt Premium Golf Cart Battery - Group Size GC2
...UTL
Surprising that it would be the industry standard Trojan T-105 for specs. On further review, there seems to be a lot of discussion regarding the actual specs of that Energizer battery.

On the Sam's Club site the Energizer 6 Volt Premium Golf Cart Battery - Group Size GC2 is listed as:

Minutes at 75 AMPS: 107
20 AMP Hour Capacity: 208

The Trojan T-105 is:
Minutes at 75 AMPS: 115
20 AMP Hour Capacity: 225

These differences are not really significant.

That being said, the Trojans are often pricey and if the Energizers are significantly cheaper that is another question entirely. Heard that lots of folks have had good success with Sam's club.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:52 PM   #66
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I have the same setup.....are you sure you don't want 2 T145 30% more capacity for just a few more dollars.
Are you able to get the two T145's within the 23.5" length of the available battery space? I didn't think there was room with individual battery boxes..? I'd love that set up.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:53 PM   #67
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His battery rack sits on top of the frame rails, ours are between the frame rails.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:59 PM   #68
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Any experience with Duracell 6 v?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...cle/6/sligc115

10% off the $109 if I buy like today or tomorrow.?
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Old 02-26-2016, 04:32 PM   #69
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I saw those too but the low price scared me into thinking they can't be that great.
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:03 PM   #70
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Yes, and I don't have Trojans around here so it's not feasible for me. The dealer that's closest want a golf battery in return or $29/battery extra. That quiet a premium for the Trojans . This would be my first 6v batteries so I don't have a golf cart battery for return.
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:03 PM   #71
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I thought the external measurement was the same except for height and weight
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:05 PM   #72
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I have enough room for the
T 145's just didn't research it enough, before I bought
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:07 PM   #73
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His battery rack sits on top of the frame rails, ours are between the frame rails.
Ah yes, I knew something didn't jive as I've been out there with my ruler and back to the internet for battery dimensions for several days now. thanks.

I thought about welding a rack on the frame top for the purpose but hate to do any welding on the tongue.
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:15 PM   #74
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Well right or wrong, I ordered one of these. Hope I'm not sorry but it will fit in my rack and hold the 2 six volt batteries.

Century Plastics: White Heavy Duty Battery Box - (part#: GCE-G)
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:20 PM   #75
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Well right or wrong, I ordered one of these. Hope I'm not sorry but it will fit in my rack and hold the 2 six volt batteries.

Century Plastics: White Heavy Duty Battery Box - (part#: GCE-G)
I have the Flagstaff Sofa version of your trailer and that is the exact box I use. It works great for the 2 T105s I have
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:23 PM   #76
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That white box has no strap to hold the lid on?
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:25 PM   #77
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Nice thread, this is what I did for a battery hold down with some plexi I had sitting around.
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:27 PM   #78
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You can buy some straps at Walmart for 5 dollars. I put 5,000 miles on my trailer last year and the lid is still there.
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:42 PM   #79
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That's a good idea. I was thinking two battery boxes for some reason. I guess I needed to think outside the "box".
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:50 PM   #80
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I had dual 12volts. I have proven the hard way that it's a nice fable to think you will be able to take the bad battery out of the circuit and limp along on the good one.

Real life experience is that when one goes bad, you won't know until the good one has mostly discharged itself into the bad one.

The other issue with dual 12V (which I also found out the hard way) is that if the two batteries have significantly different charge states when you connect them together, the current flow between the two batteries in parallel is enough to melt cables and start electrical fires. I'm very glad the batteries were mounted on the tongue.

I have since switched to dual 6V golf cart batteries in the same box. Gives me more capacity (232 AH) and less worries. I bought mine from Costco (Costco-branded batteries rated highly in Consumer Reports) - $150 for both, including tax.

With our style of camping, loss of battery does not necessarily end the trip. The biggest loss would be the heater. We have flashlights, and fridge does not use 12V. Water would be awkward, but we carried water when we tent camped. But our longest camping trips are only a week now anyway.

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Don't assume you can't or won't have issues with 6 v batteries . you can find yourself in the same boat with the 6v . I've used 12 volt batteries for 30 yrs . see no reason to switch to 6 volt batteries . i run 4 24 dp 12 v batteries and in 30 yrs have never had issues like you describe . one plus note on the 12'ves is you can get by with just one . I often use one as a trolling motor battery something you won't do with a 6 v . the one time i did have a 12v go bad it did nothing to the others i just removed it from the set up and kept on going . no need to run to town .I guess the first thing one must do is pay better attention to there batteries . most all wait till they have issues .
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