Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51
Also be careful how you wire a battery switch. You need battery power for the brakes in the event the trailer separates from the tow vehicle when the break-a-way switch get's pulled. No power from tow vehicle at that point so the trailer battery must at least still power the break-a-switch.
For storage, that will not matter, but if you were to accidentally forget to turn it back on and tow, that could be an issue.
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That is a VERY good point and an excellent reminder.
Ours did not come with a Battery Cutoff Switch so I installed one.
It disconnects ALL the power from the battery so there is no parasitic draw from CO/Propane sensors, etc to drain the battery while we are storing it.
Many factory switches leave some items still powered up, which in my opinion defeats the very reason to have a Battery Disconnect in he first place.
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2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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