I will always choose the simple, straight forward route.
We think alike. For 3 years I only looked at indicator lights which I knew were unreliable. And not hesitant to running my 2000 geny as much as needed. Just got a cheep (free) vm and playing with it on first trip last week. Currently only using to monitor battery voltage at any given time not sure how else to use it. when you say "measure draw" ... what are you saying? Measuring what you are drawing from your battery at any given time?
I will always choose the simple, straight forward route.
We think alike. For 3 years I only looked at indicator lights which I knew were unreliable. And not hesitant to running my 2000 geny as much as needed. Just got a cheep (free) vm and playing with it on first trip last week. Currently only using to monitor battery voltage at any given time not sure how else to use it. when you say "measure draw" ... what are you saying? Measuring what you are drawing from your battery at any given time?
I will use my multimeter at times to find what I think is an unusual draw, like a short, parasitic draw, or overall draw. Here's an article that explains it better than I can: http://www.rvdoctor.com/2009/12/which-circuit.html?m=1
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
Buy a battery monitor if you want simple and accurate. Victron BMV712 is around $200. I bought mine for $185. It measures the current going in and out so you know the state of charge. Way better than measuring voltage.
It's basically the same as a fuel gauge in your car. Using a meter every time is the equivalent of sticking a dipstick in your fuel tank every time you want to know the state of charge.
Personally, looking at a fuel gauge isn't that hard in a car. Looking at a battery monitor is the same since it's basically a fuel gauge for your battery. Extra bonus is that it also shows current draw so you can see how much is being drawn at any time.
Taking the cable off and measuring with a multimeter in series is a better way to measure those low current amounts. Clamp meters are notoriously inaccurate especially measuring DC.
Mine is not inaccurate. I zero it right next to the conductor that I'll be camping over. I can easily see the value of a single light bulb going on or off. Or as much as the surge on my hydraulic pump versus steady state running.
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2016 F350 CC Dually Powerstroke 4x4
2014 Cedar Creek 34RLSA w/Level Up
2007 HD Ultra Classic 103
USS Pyro AE-24 WestPac MM2 '71-'75
Unless you compare it to an inline one you don't know. In our labs, we had very accurate clamp meters. They cost around $5k each. Even those weren't as accurate as an inline meter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowrideHD
Mine is not inaccurate. I zero it right next to the conductor that I'll be camping over. I can easily see the value of a single light bulb going on or off. Or as much as the surge on my hydraulic pump versus steady state running.
Unless you compare it to an inline one you don't know. In our labs, we had very accurate clamp meters. They cost around $5k each. Even those weren't as accurate as an inline meter.
Good for you!
But I don't camp in a lab so my Fluke 325 gives me results that I trust. I recommended a bargain priced meter that I believe would be a big help to anyone that wants a pretty good idea of their amp draw. And its a heck of a lot easier to use than hooking up an inline gauge if you're checking multiple, individual devices or circuits.
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2016 F350 CC Dually Powerstroke 4x4
2014 Cedar Creek 34RLSA w/Level Up
2007 HD Ultra Classic 103
USS Pyro AE-24 WestPac MM2 '71-'75
Note there is a temperature dependence. Found this chart for RV Deep Cycle batteries a while ago. At 100 degrees Fahrenheit per this chart, 12.9 volts equates to 100% charge.
Agree with the comments stating that a load test is necessary to determine the state of your battery.
FYI
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JLeising
2012 Solera "S"
Calif SF Bay Area
Linear Mode
