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Old 08-01-2015, 10:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by scott23fb View Post
Hi Tom,
I'm trying to find out what the correct recommended size fuses should be in my 23fb parallax power supply. Previous owner installed random size fuses. Any suggestions.
thanks - Robert
On the cover there should be a list of what the fuses are for and their size. I just looked at mine. It has 11 fuse slots and uses 8 of them. Parallax recommends 15 amp fuses in the 8 slots that are used. This was printed by Parallax on the cover. Mine is the 55 amp model.

Jim
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:50 PM   #22
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If the gas leak detector is powered it activates the propane shutoff valve(solenoid). That could very easily account for the additional current draw. Try turning the detector off. That causes the valve to close and power to the solenoid valve and the control circuit is no longer drawing current.
If you have a powered awning with remote, it too is always consuming some power.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:42 AM   #23
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Also check your stereo which is most likely hard wired to the 12v. I'm not sure what you are actually trying to achieve, but unplug the power cable behind the stereo and see if that accomplishes what you desire.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:01 AM   #24
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Read this thread forward and then backward. Still don't get it. What's the imperative to have the converter's fan off? It's doing what it was designed to do.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:56 AM   #25
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First I would never run the thing for more than a couple minutes, without a battery in the circuit. The battery evens the load, improves the quality of the current from your converter/charger, which is often fairly ROUGH DC current without the battery as a buffer. Next look at the specs for your converter, you can usually find it on line. Some fans are temp activated, some are current flow activated and I guess some even just run if there is current draw. Decide if what you are seeing is normal or actually a problem.

I agree with the others Re: the FRIG always draws a small current to the digital controls. Most other things like the CO detector and propane detectors use some, but very little power. IF you are worried, check the draw fuse circuit by circuit.
If the refrig is turned off at its control panel, there should be no current draw.

Removing each 12v fuse one at a time to look for the current draw will not (may not) find the device still drawing current. Manufacturers use inline fuses and circuit breakers for some current drawing devices. You may have that situation - just be aware of that.

For example, when our TT factory battery disconnect is shut off, the front leveling jacks still operate. (Dealers wanted this feature so they could operate the jacks without having to get the keys to open the trailer to enable the battery cutoff switch - to aid in moving the trailer in the storage areas).
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:15 AM   #26
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Won't the converter itself draw some power?

Bruce
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:45 AM   #27
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That is true. In fact it is one of the things I disconnect whey we boondock.
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:34 AM   #28
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RV type

It is a 2005 Wildcat 5th wheel model is 30 something (decal is missing).
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:39 AM   #29
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High ambient temp

If the high temp sets up the operation of the converter fan what would then cause the .1 Amp current through the one circuit. The fan itself doesn't go through the fuse panel it is contained in the MBA of the converter. The temperature recently has dropped to mid 80's and the problem hasn't occurred, only when near 95. The sun shines on the back of the RV and the refrig is on the back wall so I was wondering if there is some circuit in the refrig that is activating the current draw even though the refrig is turned OFF.
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Old 08-03-2015, 10:05 AM   #30
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If the high temp sets up the operation of the converter fan what would then cause the .1 Amp current through the one circuit. The fan itself doesn't go through the fuse panel it is contained in the MBA of the converter. The temperature recently has dropped to mid 80's and the problem hasn't occurred, only when near 95. The sun shines on the back of the RV and the refrig is on the back wall so I was wondering if there is some circuit in the refrig that is activating the current draw even though the refrig is turned OFF.
I wouldn't think so but guess anything is possible. Sense the unit is 10 years old who knows what a previous owner did. He may have added a fan that is hot (running) all he time. Turn the fridge on. ID the fuse for it. Shut it off and pull the fuse. This will tell you if it is something on the fridge that is not controlled by the on/off switch.


I am still curious as to why you are concerned about this. Also why you disconnected the battery while on shorepower? What am I missing?

Jim
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:48 PM   #31
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The draw circuit shows zero amps after the fan shuts off but the fan is internally wired and controlled by the PowerMax converter MBA. So it seems that whatever is drawing the .10 Amps shuts down first allowing the fan to shut off. I can't get a check now because the ambient temperature has dropped 10 degrees from when the anomaly occurred (95+). The sun hits the back of the RV and that is also where the refrig is located so maybe that is linked somehow.
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:52 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ford1 View Post
If the gas leak detector is powered it activates the propane shutoff valve(solenoid). That could very easily account for the additional current draw. Try turning the detector off. That causes the valve to close and power to the solenoid valve and the control circuit is no longer drawing current.
If you have a powered awning with remote, it too is always consuming some power.
I did disconnect the LP detector and the LP circuit still showed a draw of .!0 Amps.
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Old 08-03-2015, 06:00 PM   #33
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I wouldn't think so but guess anything is possible. Sense the unit is 10 years old who knows what a previous owner did. He may have added a fan that is hot (running) all he time. Turn the fridge on. ID the fuse for it. Shut it off and pull the fuse. This will tell you if it is something on the fridge that is not controlled by the on/off switch.


I am still curious as to why you are concerned about this. Also why you disconnected the battery while on shorepower? What am I missing?

Jim
Bought the unit used and am trouble shootiing everything before I use it. Don't want to wear out the fan on something that I may be able to correct.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:24 PM   #34
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Won't the converter itself draw some power?

Bruce
The converter/charger only draws 120v power, not 12v power. Its purpose is to supply 12v power to recharge the battery AND to supply 12v power for 12v appliances like lighting, propane detector, TV antenna booster, refer control panel, water heater controls, 12v fans, 12v remote control devices, 12v radio displays and memories, and probably a few I've forgotten to mention.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:03 AM   #35
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Bought the unit used and am trouble shootiing everything before I use it. Don't want to wear out the fan on something that I may be able to correct.
I really don't think you need worry about wearing out the fan. I understand that you bought this unit used and have no idea what some other owner may have done or why but from what I have seen following this thread it appears to be working properly. All electric or electronic items generate some heat. The fan is controlled by an internal thermostat and it is coming on and off as it should.

I wrote Parallax about a couple of questions I had about my converter. I received a very quick and detailed reply from, I believe, one of their engineers. Here is a link so you can contact them and might be able to get information you are looking for:

https://www.parallaxpower.com/contact

We may have already answered your question. I am sure though that they can verify that. I know I was pleased with their response.

Jim
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:33 AM   #36
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Reply from Parallaxpower:

"The fan circuit is controlled by a thermistor and is triggered primarily by the amount of heat generated as a result of the DC current the converter is supplying to the DC system while the converter is powered on. In general terms at 70-75 degrees F. the fan will trigger at approx. 20-25 amperes of DC current supplied by the converter. The fan circuit will trigger sooner with a lower DC ampere load if the ambient temperature in the converter mounting location is 80 degrees or higher".

Though I have a different brand converter I have to assume that they are all quite similar, thanks for the lead.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:25 AM   #37
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Reply from Parallaxpower:

"The fan circuit is controlled by a thermistor and is triggered primarily by the amount of heat generated as a result of the DC current the converter is supplying to the DC system while the converter is powered on. In general terms at 70-75 degrees F. the fan will trigger at approx. 20-25 amperes of DC current supplied by the converter. The fan circuit will trigger sooner with a lower DC ampere load if the ambient temperature in the converter mounting location is 80 degrees or higher".

Though I have a different brand converter I have to assume that they are all quite similar, thanks for the lead.
Your quite welcome. Even though I have gotten some excellent answers to my questions here from those that have "been there done that" it still helps to go to the "horses mouth" on occasion.

" The fan circuit will trigger sooner with a lower DC ampere load if the ambient temperature in the converter mounting location is 80 degrees or higher." I think that statement pretty much answers your question about the fan. It is not necessarily the load that triggers the fan. This has been mentioned by a couple of your responders. If the converter warms up for any reason the fan will run to protect the converter. And yes, I would guess they are all designed pretty much the same.

Glad we could help.

Jim
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