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07-31-2015, 05:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 19
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Unknown circuit with constant power draw.
With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
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07-31-2015, 05:22 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 724
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Fridge?
__________________
2019.5 Rockwood 2509S
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07-31-2015, 05:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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DSI = Direct Spark Ignition.....so either fridge or water heater when on propane
__________________
Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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07-31-2015, 06:24 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Louisiana
Posts: 93
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Radio Memory?
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07-31-2015, 06:35 PM
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#5
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Georgia Rally Coordinator
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: GA
Posts: 24,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie
DSI = Direct Spark Ignition.....so either fridge or water heater when on propane
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X2 Later RJD
__________________
2020 Shasta Phoenix SPF 27RKSS (sold)
2018 Dodge Ram 2500 6.4 3:73 gearing. Traded 2015 Chevy 2500 6.0, 4:10
Traded 2015 30WRLIKS V-Lite
Days camped 2019 62
Days camped 2020 49 days camped 2021-74 2022-40 days 2023 5 days
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07-31-2015, 06:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN
Posts: 244
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Might be smoke and CO detectors.
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David, Sherry and our three fur kids, Nicholas, Finnegan and Bentley
2013 Coachmen Encounter 36BH
2014 Honda CR-V/ Blue Ox Patriot II
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07-31-2015, 07:09 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 627
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radio, TV, smoke detector, LP detector, CO detector, Frig control , water heater control, Trik-l-charge, inverters.
Put your ammeter in line then remove the fuses one at a time u til the phantom loads go away
__________________
2001 Coachmen Mirada (Ford F53 6.8L V10) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue
It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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08-01-2015, 11:59 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 19
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No, not fridge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddupton
Fridge?
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I'm not sure if this is how to answer to your comment its my first time on the forum.
The Bern
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08-01-2015, 12:21 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bern
I'm not sure if this is how to answer to your comment its my first time on the forum.
The Bern
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It could be your refrigerator. Is it on?
__________________
2019.5 Rockwood 2509S
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08-01-2015, 01:42 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,146
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First I would never run the thing for more than a couple minutes, without a battery in the circuit. The battery evens the load, improves the quality of the current from your converter/charger, which is often fairly ROUGH DC current without the battery as a buffer. Next look at the specs for your converter, you can usually find it on line. Some fans are temp activated, some are current flow activated and I guess some even just run if there is current draw. Decide if what you are seeing is normal or actually a problem.
I agree with the others Re: the FRIG always draws a small current to the digital controls. Most other things like the CO detector and propane detectors use some, but very little power. IF you are worried, check the draw fuse circuit by circuit.
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08-01-2015, 01:48 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,146
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OH HECK I forgot to ask. If you have a THREE WAY frig, A/C, 12 V. or propane it will draw a lot of current on 12v and that converter is likely to run a lot if not all the time.
Even on 110 volt or propane it draws a little bit of 12 v, but not enough to make a big difference.
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08-01-2015, 02:05 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,146
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If you are reading/measuring the amperage correctly. Realize that .10 amps at 12 volts is only 1.2 watts of power or about one LED bulb or about one tenth of the power of an incandescent 12 v blub
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08-01-2015, 02:45 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Whiting, NJ
Posts: 157
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Power draw
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bern
With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
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Frig/Frez?
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08-01-2015, 04:22 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 426
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Hook up the battery and it should work fine ?
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08-01-2015, 04:27 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,598
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It might help if you told us what RV you're talking about.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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08-01-2015, 04:47 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2
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Hi Tom,
I'm trying to find out what the correct recommended size fuses should be in my 23fb parallax power supply. Previous owner installed random size fuses. Any suggestions.
thanks - Robert
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08-01-2015, 08:56 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 19
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Residual current draw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddupton
It could be your refrigerator. Is it on?
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No the fridg is OFF at the push button switch on the top face of the fridg. I am now wondering if the extreme coach heat triggers some activity in the fridg DSI circuit. I don't know how to obtain a wiring diagram for my 5thW so not able to trace the wiring. Today it was only in the mid 80's and the converter fan did not activate so I wasn't able to make further checks.
The Bern
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08-01-2015, 09:54 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 21
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Your converter sounds like it is working properly. Whenever you are plugged into 120volt power your converter is energized and supply's your RV with 12volt DC. It also maintains the charge on your battery. The converter is the 12volt supply when shore power is available! The purpose of the fan that is running is to cool the converter and it comes on whenever the converter reaches a preset temp. The process of converting 120V ac to 12V dc generates heat. The larger the 12v load the more heat but a high ambient temp. can contribute to the converter needing the fan as well.
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08-01-2015, 10:33 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bern
With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
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I don't understand why you have disconnected he battery. You say you are on shorepower (110 VAC) so there is no reason to unhook it. Two things you didn't mention are the fridge and hot water heater. The fridge, even on propane, requires 12 VDC for the controls and ignition of the heater. `Yes, there is a heater on your fridge. The hot water heater uses 12 VDC to ignite and for the control circuit. Sense you are on shorepower check to see if the HW heater is on propane. You may have the option to switch it over o 110 VAC and save your propane.
Oh, and I would recommend hooking he battery back up.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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