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Old 07-31-2015, 05:02 PM   #1
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Unknown circuit with constant power draw.

With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:22 PM   #2
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Fridge?
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:50 PM   #3
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DSI = Direct Spark Ignition.....so either fridge or water heater when on propane
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:24 PM   #4
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Radio Memory?
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:35 PM   #5
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DSI = Direct Spark Ignition.....so either fridge or water heater when on propane
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:37 PM   #6
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Might be smoke and CO detectors.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:09 PM   #7
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radio, TV, smoke detector, LP detector, CO detector, Frig control , water heater control, Trik-l-charge, inverters.

Put your ammeter in line then remove the fuses one at a time u til the phantom loads go away
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:59 AM   #8
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No, not fridge

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Fridge?
I'm not sure if this is how to answer to your comment its my first time on the forum.

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Old 08-01-2015, 12:21 PM   #9
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I'm not sure if this is how to answer to your comment its my first time on the forum.

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It could be your refrigerator. Is it on?
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:42 PM   #10
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First I would never run the thing for more than a couple minutes, without a battery in the circuit. The battery evens the load, improves the quality of the current from your converter/charger, which is often fairly ROUGH DC current without the battery as a buffer. Next look at the specs for your converter, you can usually find it on line. Some fans are temp activated, some are current flow activated and I guess some even just run if there is current draw. Decide if what you are seeing is normal or actually a problem.

I agree with the others Re: the FRIG always draws a small current to the digital controls. Most other things like the CO detector and propane detectors use some, but very little power. IF you are worried, check the draw fuse circuit by circuit.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:48 PM   #11
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OH HECK I forgot to ask. If you have a THREE WAY frig, A/C, 12 V. or propane it will draw a lot of current on 12v and that converter is likely to run a lot if not all the time.
Even on 110 volt or propane it draws a little bit of 12 v, but not enough to make a big difference.
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Old 08-01-2015, 02:05 PM   #12
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If you are reading/measuring the amperage correctly. Realize that .10 amps at 12 volts is only 1.2 watts of power or about one LED bulb or about one tenth of the power of an incandescent 12 v blub
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Old 08-01-2015, 02:45 PM   #13
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Power draw

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Originally Posted by The Bern View Post
With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
Frig/Frez?
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:22 PM   #14
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Hook up the battery and it should work fine ?
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:27 PM   #15
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It might help if you told us what RV you're talking about.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:47 PM   #16
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Hi Tom,
I'm trying to find out what the correct recommended size fuses should be in my 23fb parallax power supply. Previous owner installed random size fuses. Any suggestions.
thanks - Robert
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:59 PM   #17
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Hi Tom,
I'm trying to find out what the correct recommended size fuses should be in my 23fb parallax power supply. Previous owner installed random size fuses. Any suggestions.
thanks - Robert
You may find the info here:

Parallax Power Supply - Innovative electrical systems, manufactured from premium components that create lasting power for the RV industry.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:56 PM   #18
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Residual current draw

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It could be your refrigerator. Is it on?
No the fridg is OFF at the push button switch on the top face of the fridg. I am now wondering if the extreme coach heat triggers some activity in the fridg DSI circuit. I don't know how to obtain a wiring diagram for my 5thW so not able to trace the wiring. Today it was only in the mid 80's and the converter fan did not activate so I wasn't able to make further checks.

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Old 08-01-2015, 09:54 PM   #19
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Your converter sounds like it is working properly. Whenever you are plugged into 120volt power your converter is energized and supply's your RV with 12volt DC. It also maintains the charge on your battery. The converter is the 12volt supply when shore power is available! The purpose of the fan that is running is to cool the converter and it comes on whenever the converter reaches a preset temp. The process of converting 120V ac to 12V dc generates heat. The larger the 12v load the more heat but a high ambient temp. can contribute to the converter needing the fan as well.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bern View Post
With the battery disconnected and the RV plugged into 110v the converter's fan will come on after a few hours and continue running. The inside coach temperature has been above 85 deg. In checking each DC fused line in my control panel I have power being used on only two circuits. One goes to my vent fans (.01 Amps) and the other is through a 15a fuse labeled DSI for a total of .18 Amps which is providing power to the LP detector (.08 Amps) plus something else (.10 Amps). I don't know what the something else is. Can someone give me a hint? It seems that the ambient temperature plus the constant .18 Amps is enough to trigger the converter fan so if I can eliminate the extra .10 Amps it may be enough to prevent the fan from turning on.
I don't understand why you have disconnected he battery. You say you are on shorepower (110 VAC) so there is no reason to unhook it. Two things you didn't mention are the fridge and hot water heater. The fridge, even on propane, requires 12 VDC for the controls and ignition of the heater. `Yes, there is a heater on your fridge. The hot water heater uses 12 VDC to ignite and for the control circuit. Sense you are on shorepower check to see if the HW heater is on propane. You may have the option to switch it over o 110 VAC and save your propane.

Oh, and I would recommend hooking he battery back up.

Jim
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