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Old 05-05-2021, 02:30 PM   #1
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upgrade battery

I have a 21 FR WolfPup 16Fq with the juice pack.
I was curious where I could find any information as to if I can get a slightly bigger batter that would not require any re-wiring of my current setup.

Suggestions?
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Old 05-05-2021, 03:13 PM   #2
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Find a ruler and measure the box. Or explore how big a new box you can install in the space of the old one.

Two Costco/Interstate 6 volt batteries give you the most amps for the space and cost. $180. 200+ amps. Real deep cycle batteries. 100 usable amps.

Any Lithium battery. Expensive. 80-90 usable amps. A new converter is necessary.
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Old 05-05-2021, 03:39 PM   #3
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Staying away from any additional equipment was what I am trying to stay away from.
I am just curious if I can update with standard equipment. I am sure there will additional equipment at some time lol
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Old 05-05-2021, 04:00 PM   #4
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Looking at your model online, looks as if the single battery sits between the frame rails. typically in a "tray" of sorts. As stated above, take some measurements and see if you can squeeze a group 27 or group 31 battery between the rails. It will likely require a new box but would be the cheapest upgrade.

Next cheapest, would be to see if you can squeeze a 2nd group 24 (w/box) between the frame rails if you slide the current battery/box all the way to one side. If you can great, you can put a 2nd 12v or go with 2 6v (more money but better batteries).

If you cannot fit two batteries between the frame rails, you can make a tray out of a couple pieces of angle iron to sit on top of the frame and do as you please with batteries.
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Old 05-05-2021, 04:01 PM   #5
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Any Lithium battery. Expensive. 80-90 usable amps. A new converter is necessary.
New converter isn't definitely necessary since the "juice pack" is a solar setup. Use the converter to get to 80-90% and then the solar will top it up to 100%.
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Old 05-05-2021, 05:29 PM   #6
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Since the rv is new you could buy a matching battery if it will fit. Double your battery capacity. Only might need two cables to connect.

Learn what you have and see if it meets your needs.

The current battery meets the requirements for legal travel to power the brakes.

With an electric fridge it will be taxed. You likely need more.

A battery monitor of some kind would be helpful. Discharging your battery too far shortens it’s life. It is likely a boat battery. Does not have a lot of capacity as such. Look it up. Got to learn how long it will last. Turn on the furnace and you will kill it before Dawn.

That panel can provide 10-15 amp hours a day.

P=I*V. Watts = amps x volts. You can analyze equipment battery use.

Get educated and plan ahead.
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Old 05-06-2021, 07:39 AM   #7
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"Get educated and plan ahead."

This is probably my biggest key/downfall. I am a newbie but feel I do a fair amount of research. While I know a bit of the electricity world, it's probably enough to do significant damage lol. So yes, more reading/research is in my future.

It will be more about figuring out how far I can push what I have and get out of that push before I have to start getting into mods that are over my head.
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Old 05-06-2021, 07:52 AM   #8
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A non-lithium converter will charge a lithium battery up to around 80 percent or so. Your solar will do the rest. If there is no sun a 30 dollar Noco battery charger will.
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Old 05-06-2021, 12:18 PM   #9
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Figure out what you have.

The battery rating you want is the 20hr rating. Or the battery will provide 100 amps over a 20 hour period. Or 5 amps an hour for 20 hours. If you drain the battery faster less amps are available.

p=IV. 100amps x12.5 volts or 1250 watts.

Then divide by 2, the amps. Because you should not discharge your battery more than 50%

Your 100 amp battery is good for 50 amp hours. We use about 100 amps per day in our rv. Thus I have 430 amps. 215 usable. So we can go two nights without charging.

A 100 watt panel produces a charge of 25 amps on its best day on your roof.

Learned a lot by purchasing and installing a battery monitor. $40. Transmits data to my phone, so I know what is going on. The Vitron meter is better but, for most not necessary.

Get educated on power use by device. Plan ahead.
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:35 AM   #10
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Many good thoughts here. I am seriously thinking about moving to a 2 Lithium battery setup as it shows on my fusebox it is lithium ready.
But I still want to make sure if I do this, I don't need to make any adjustments to my solar panel.
I am also thinking of adding a propane take so I can run two. While this setup is not nearly as an issue, it sure can help alleviate some of the battery use.
I would not say we plan on boondocking for long periods at a time. But the example now is the next weekend we will be there for 4 days. We have a generator available with the people going with us so we are fine there.
I love the information given here but I would really like to speak with someone at Forest River or such to run this by them before doing anything.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:35 AM   #11
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In following up, a couple other items in regards to battery usage etc that I don't see much discussion on.
Power Awning - Yes, I know put it out and leave it out. Don't keep moving it if on battery. But how much would that drain just putting it out? Still looking for that power setting.
Water Pump - I know these don't draw a ton but when filling up with water, they have to pump out to all faucets etc. So that could be a large draw as well. At least for that time.

Would I run these while hooked up to a running truck maybe? Saving some of the battery?
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:57 PM   #12
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In following up, a couple other items in regards to battery usage etc that I don't see much discussion on.
Power Awning - Yes, I know put it out and leave it out. Don't keep moving it if on battery. But how much would that drain just putting it out? Still looking for that power setting.
Water Pump - I know these don't draw a ton but when filling up with water, they have to pump out to all faucets etc. So that could be a large draw as well. At least for that time.

Would I run these while hooked up to a running truck maybe? Saving some of the battery?
Run the awning as much as you need to protect it. They're only good for 5-10 mph winds. I don't think they take a whole lot of power- there's not a ton of resistance and they're in/out pretty quick.

Being plugged in for running the pump isn't a bad idea. I just always figured it was part of my power usage and didn't worry about it, though. (But, I also have a power hungry family of 4.)
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Old 05-11-2021, 12:08 AM   #13
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upgrade battery

Fellow Wolf Pup owner here. The manual for the solar juice pack states that it’s not compatible with Lithium. You’ll need to swap out the solar charge controller with one that is compatible.
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:38 AM   #14
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and there is my confusion.

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Fellow Wolf Pup owner here. The manual for the solar juice pack states that it’s not compatible with Lithium. You’ll need to swap out the solar charge controller with one that is compatible.
This is on my fuse panel.
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:56 AM   #15
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Fellow Wolf Pup owner here. The manual for the solar juice pack states that it’s not compatible with Lithium. You’ll need to swap out the solar charge controller with one that is compatible.
PFeezzy, I don't know if it has been said yet, but LA chargers will not hurt lithium batteries. They will charge them to 80 percent only, not 100 percent. The other 20 percent, can be obtained from your solar panels.


Way back, I mistakenly threw away 300 bucks to upgrade my converter to a lithium capable charger, but based on what I now know, I wouldn't have spent the money.
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Old 05-11-2021, 08:05 AM   #16
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PFeezzy, I don't know if it has been said yet, but LA chargers will not hurt lithium batteries. They will charge them to 80 percent only, not 100 percent. The other 20 percent, can be obtained from your solar panels.


Way back, I mistakenly threw away 300 bucks to upgrade my converter to a lithium capable charger, but based on what I now know, I wouldn't have spent the money.
This setup of mine has the juicepack (50amp solar).
Again, I am not hoping to boondock off this. But in cases like this upcoming weekend, I would like to run the 12v fridge, pumps and some lighting. The rest is off the battery.
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Old 05-11-2021, 08:22 AM   #17
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I would like to run the 12v fridge
I believe this is going to be your biggest amp draw... as it will be almost a continuous draw, unlike your other momentary draw items... lights are negligible

I may have missed it but I don't believe you ever mentioned the current size of your battery. This would be Group 24, 27, or 31... it should be on the battery. I will bet it is Group 24 which is the smallest battery available. Each of these group designations are standard size/shape.
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Old 05-11-2021, 08:24 AM   #18
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I will go and look at the actual battery but my guess is that I agree with you.
It is the one from the dealership.
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Old 05-11-2021, 08:44 AM   #19
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without doing a thing to the camper, you might want to go to Costco, ( cheapest I know of for batteries besides Walmart) and buy a Group 27 or even 31 RV/Marine battery. The 27 at Costco is $90. Bring it to the campsite along with a set of jumper cables and parallel it to your current battery while camping (not IF but when you need it). This temporary arrangement will give you some battery power backup that you can use for the weekend while you figure things out. I doubt the Group 24 will do much for you for over 24 hours. Take an old battery core with you to save yourself $15 core charge.
Your solar may or may not help much depending on the amount of sun this time of year at the site that you choose. As someone mentioned 5.7 amps in ideal conditions is not even that much in less than ideal conditions.
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Old 05-11-2021, 09:10 AM   #20
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And this is where I need to sit down and get my numbers straight. I am on forum overload with plenty of suggestions lol.
I am covered for this upcoming weekend. Extra batteries if needed and a generator. I am looking long term and while I won't say cost is not an issue, I have no problem putting in a couple extra dollars to get some longer run out of a battery.
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