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Old 10-13-2018, 05:42 PM   #1
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Post Upgraded from 30 amp to 50 amp service.

I upgraded our Salem 29RKSS from 30 amp service to 50 amp service.

It was pretty easy. I had to replace the power panel because the original was a WFCO WF8955PEC which is a 30 amp unit only. I took the opportunity to upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics PD4560.

So here's a list of the parts I bought and some Pics of the 30 amp service.
I'll add pics of the 50 amp service later, but it's basically the same except it's cleaned up a lot.

Power Converter PD4560 . . . . . $255.00 (Best Converter)
50 Amp Double Pole Breaker . . . . $9.50 -- (Home Depot)
3C/#6 w/gnd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.84 -- (Home Depot)
50ARVKIT Conversion Kit . . . . . $149.22 -- (Walmart.com)
Camco 50 Amp Power, 25' . . . . . .$77.42 -- (Amazon)
For a Grand Total of . . . . . . . . . . $509.98

Here's the box that I had to coil 25' of 10/3 cable in.
Click image for larger version

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Here's a view of it with one side removed.
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Here's the cable coiled up with the box removed.
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Here's the WFCO Power Panel.
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Here's the legend. It's more readable than some I've seen, but the Moitor threw me for a while. And all the light circuits were labelled Lite!
Click image for larger version

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Old 10-13-2018, 05:49 PM   #2
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Since I already had a 30 amp receptacle mounted to the shop, and that's all I need at home, I took the Female end that came with the 50ARVKIT and put it on the old 30 amp cable to effectively make a 25' long 30 amp male to 50 amp female twistlock adapter. I took a piece of #10 awg wire from the cord and jumped from X to Y so both legs of the female end would be hot.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:45 PM   #3
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I did the same thing last month. It was very easy just a bit time consuming. I hate stripping wires but having many new outlets for electric heaters is awesome!
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Old 10-14-2018, 06:04 AM   #4
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I plan on adding a couple of receptacles on a separate circuit, and I'm going to run a wire inside the wall and through the attic for a second A/C in the bedroom.
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Old 10-14-2018, 06:48 AM   #5
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You might want to recheck your math. Looks like a bit over $500 to be. Nice upgrade!
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:35 AM   #6
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x2 check your math. Unless that's the figute you told your wife so she didn't get pissed.
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I upgraded our Salem 29RKSS from 30 amp service to 50 amp service.


Here's the legend. It's more readable than some I've seen, but the Moitor threw me for a while. And all the light circuits were labelled Lite!

Attachment 189090


So now I am curious. What does “Moitor” identify?
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
You might want to recheck your math. Looks like a bit over $500 to be. Nice upgrade!
You're right. I messed up the excel formula, and I didn't manually check it before I posted it.
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:06 PM   #9
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So now I am curious. What does “Moitor” identify?
After a little searching I figured out that it was the water pump! I also figured out which fuse was for which lights. So now they're labeled correctly.
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
After a little searching I figured out that it was the water pump! I also figured out which fuse was for which lights. So now they're labeled correctly.
So Moiter = Water Pump.[emoji12]

Not sure how or why, but that is good to know?
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:40 PM   #11
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I didn't bother labeling any of my 12 volt DC fuses except for the slide and awning which required 25 amp fuses and everything else was 15 amps.

My wiring was done under the camper. It is fairly time consuming removing the plastic under the camper but worth it in the end.

Need to figure out how to wire for a front air conditioner. The front one will actually be a swamp cooler as I live and camp in dry environments. With a water filtration system and the fact that my dear wife (DW) insists on camping by running water, the 15-30 gallons of water it uses shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:11 AM   #12
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I'm not sure which RV you have, but as it turns out ours doesn't look like it's going to be too bad to run the wiring in the wall. There's a wall right behind the power panel that has a vent pipe ran up it, and the bathroom is the other side of the wall. I removed the vent trim in the bathroom and can see the vent pipe looking back at the wall, and can see the bedroom looking toward the front.

My plan is to cut a 14" square in the bedroom ceiling and fish a wire from there back to the wall and down by the vent pipe and into the back of the power panel. I plan on replacing the ceiling cutout and trimming around it with matching trim until I get ready to install the A/C.

I'll take some pictures once we start on the wiring.
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