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Old 06-16-2018, 01:41 PM   #1
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Use a generator to provide AC and run a charger?

I'll be making my first boondocking trip this summer.

Will be using a Briggs and Stratton P3000 generator (2600 running watts), and a NOCO G26000(26 amps) charger. (Also have a 350W inverter, but don't want to take away from the charging).

I'd like to be able to run the generator to provide AC (counter top ice maker and Sat TV) and run the charger simultaneously.

Will the converter battle the charger? Does simply turning off the converter breaker allow the charger to work, and run AC devices at the same time?

I've tried to find the answer by searching the forum and didn't see the topic.

We'll be camping in the Rockies. Any experience on what performance or trouble I can expect from the generator at 8,000 feet?

Is it reasonable to expect to run the 15,000 BTU air conditioner with Micro-Air soft start at 5,500 feet outside of Denver using the generator.

Thanks for sharing your experience!
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:14 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum it's a great place to get your questions answered. I'm having trouble figuring out why you want to run a separate charger if its to get a faster charge then you will need to disconnect the batteries from the system and charge them separately with your battery charger while your converter supplies the 110V to the rig.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:40 AM   #3
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At that elevation I do not know if you'll get anymore than mane the ac at the sametime.might not even get the ac.. Is the generator carb setup for the higher elevations?
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:50 AM   #4
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Thanks SeaDog - You've answered my question about the converter! Yes - The goal is to run the generator less and get the batteries charged. I'll disconnect the batteries while charging them.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:32 PM   #5
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Do you understand that it will take 6 hours or more to recharge your batteries properly so you don't sulfate them...there is no Quick Way regardless of the size of the charger since they can only accept a maximum current of about 25% of your battery amp hour rating. You have a 2015 coachman so you should have a rather robust, modern 3 or 4 stage converter charger built in. I'm pretty sure FR never supplied less than 55amp converters (mine is 75) in that time frame.
Now if you have a couple of batts for camping..you're probably looking at around 200 amp hours of capacity (100 usable before needing recharge) this means a max of 40 DC amps charging current could be USED....(you won't ever get this high)...and that is only FOUR AC amps from your generator. I don't know what your A/C draws in AC current but I would think that at least after startup you should have plenty of juice left over for the converter if you limit any other DC use.
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:23 PM   #6
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Be aware that if you have a WFCO brand converter, they are famous for poor charging performance. They usually do not switch to "Bulk" charging mode unless your batteries are below 50% capacity, which is considered the lowest point that you discharge them to. Your NOCO should hold bulk mode until about 85% capacity and then switch to the lower charging rate.

When I charge with the generator, I disconnect the negative cable from my battery bank and use a dedicated automotive charger, leaving the converter to supply the 13.6 volts to the camper.
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:20 PM   #7
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Thanks Cam and Blue pill.
Prior to the coach, I owned a catamaran that I sailed to Europe and back. The performance of the complex electrical system was critical and we'll monitored. I am struggling with the lack of data with the simple systems onboard. I've read many comments like Blue pill saying the converters are okay for maintenance charging but not much more. Looking at the breaker panel panel, I can't determine the designed performance of the converter. Can someone provide a way to tell what's in the box and it's charging parameters?

It is a WFCO...

BTW, in the sailing life, we charge up to 85 percent.. it costs too much precious fuel to go higher. Then, monthly equalize the batteries to desulfate. The NOCO provides that capability.


Many thanks to you all for helping this novice.
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NealMan View Post
Thanks Cam and Blue pill.
Prior to the coach, I owned a catamaran that I sailed to Europe and back. The performance of the complex electrical system was critical and we'll monitored. I am struggling with the lack of data with the simple systems onboard. I've read many comments like Blue pill saying the converters are okay for maintenance charging but not much more. Looking at the breaker panel panel, I can't determine the designed performance of the converter. Can someone provide a way to tell what's in the box and it's charging parameters?

It is a WFCO...

Many thanks to you all for helping this novice.
Ahhh...well I'm afraid that the WFCO's are the short end of the stick. As I understand their operation....they are really old fashioned constant voltage converters (13.6) with a couple of Automatic ...circuits for Bulk and Float tacked on that don't actually respond to battery state of charge....like Blue Pill said. Hence the widespread dissatisfaction.
Those of us that got the Progressive Industries smart chargers , got a much better product.
I was a cruiser FT as well with a large bank and lots of options. The factory RV production is intensely cost driven and the products are designed with equipment that is fine if you live off a power pedestal.... but way under equipped if you want to go off grid.

Most who boondock will upgrade batteries to real deep cycles rather than dual purpose...and have at least a couple of hundred amp hours...2 pairs of 6 Volts are also common in heaavier boondocking and residential fridge use. Wiring between converter and batts is another candidate for upgrade so you can push higher current to the batts than on the thin stuff that comes standard. If it were me, I'd replace the WFCO with a smart charger from either Progressive or Iota. Finally the missing piece is a true battery monitor like Victron or Trimetric makes so you know what the hell is going on with your system that the idiot lights won't tell you.
Here's the WFCO theory of operation link. http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conten...eration-v2.pdf

I don't think it's a very good theory!
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